BMR K memeber and oil pan concern?
03-11-2005, 12:38 PM
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BMR K memeber and oil pan concern? UPDATE: Idea with pic scroll down We just installed the BMR K and now I'm a little weary. The oil pan is now the lowest part of the car. By looking at the stock bent k member it is pretty beat up over the years. Is there a skid or something that can be done?
Anyone had any problems busting the pan after a K member install? My car IS lowered with a Pro Kit.
Thanks
Brandon
Anyone had any problems busting the pan after a K member install? My car IS lowered with a Pro Kit.
Thanks
Brandon
Last edited by BrandonSS; 03-12-2005 at 07:29 PM. Reason: update idea
03-12-2005, 07:08 AM
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Originally Posted by BrandonSS
03-12-2005, 09:57 AM
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If you care about cornering performance more than drag racing and you regularly AutoX or drive hard alot I'd judt ditch the BMR member. I recently uninstalled mine because it had started making ominus creaking/popping sounds and put the stock piece back in. I immediately could feel the increase in stiffeness in the front end and a difference in steering response.
sucks these opinions and concerns werent said when I posted "stock or BMR K member?" 
03-12-2005, 03:35 PM
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Well, I've noted my front end shake and concerns about
light / critical-weld construction in a few threads.
Now, this skid-plate notion... it might be that this could be
an interesting product if somebody made a skid that:
1) provides a "safety strapping" across the two end pieces,
in case the circle welds were to crack, keeping the front at
least somewhat together
2) triangulates said welds, sort-of gusseting, for better
stiffness
3) provides a secondary cross-tie rearward of the main
(single) tube
4) did it in under 5lb
I'd be OK with something where you had to drill and tap
holes. Louvered stainless would be slick. Mild sheet and
thin-wall box stock would be acceptable though.
light / critical-weld construction in a few threads.
Now, this skid-plate notion... it might be that this could be
an interesting product if somebody made a skid that:
1) provides a "safety strapping" across the two end pieces,
in case the circle welds were to crack, keeping the front at
least somewhat together
2) triangulates said welds, sort-of gusseting, for better
stiffness
3) provides a secondary cross-tie rearward of the main
(single) tube
4) did it in under 5lb
I'd be OK with something where you had to drill and tap
holes. Louvered stainless would be slick. Mild sheet and
thin-wall box stock would be acceptable though.
03-12-2005, 03:51 PM
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What are you waiting for??? Get to it! 
'll be one of your customers for sure.
On the other hand... is it horrible to drive or jus a little different than stock? After putting it in I havent driven the car since we still dont have the Viper spec and spec 3f in the car yet. But I am planning on buying everything I can to strengthen the car... sbcs and even a stb. Anything to help.
'll be one of your customers for sure.On the other hand... is it horrible to drive or jus a little different than stock? After putting it in I havent driven the car since we still dont have the Viper spec and spec 3f in the car yet. But I am planning on buying everything I can to strengthen the car... sbcs and even a stb. Anything to help.
Last edited by BrandonSS; 03-12-2005 at 03:57 PM.
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03-12-2005, 04:09 PM
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The only place I notice it is when cornering on rough
pavement. Other than that it's fairly benign. The car
definitely feels more "floppy" than before, but the nose
comes up a lot more on acceleration and it's somewhat
easier to throw it around corners. If it were only stiffer.
I have a STB but no subframe stuff. Been wanting to
do some homebrew bracing, maybe when I put the Yank
crossmember on I will get to that.
pavement. Other than that it's fairly benign. The car
definitely feels more "floppy" than before, but the nose
comes up a lot more on acceleration and it's somewhat
easier to throw it around corners. If it were only stiffer.
I have a STB but no subframe stuff. Been wanting to
do some homebrew bracing, maybe when I put the Yank
crossmember on I will get to that.
Last edited by jimmyblue; 03-12-2005 at 06:13 PM.
03-12-2005, 04:33 PM
#9
This kind makes me want to build my own K member, But if you were to use thicker tubing and gusests you will be adding back the weight. So the only thing you would do is make more room for headers or turbos.
03-12-2005, 04:44 PM
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I beat on my BMR equipped (by the PO) 01TA pretty hard, and have both holed an oil FILTER and broken the K-member at the aforementioned circular welds. I run the long filter and was aware of the risk, but it was nevertheless REALLY inconvenient at the time to be on the side of the road w/o an oil filter, oil, or even a jack with which to get under the car! It totally blew my usual retort of "credit card and a can of fix-a-flat is all the spare I need" out of the water.
Tony
Tony
03-12-2005, 05:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Tony99SS
I beat on my BMR equipped (by the PO) 01TA pretty hard, and have both holed an oil FILTER and broken the K-member at the aforementioned circular welds. I run the long filter and was aware of the risk, but it was nevertheless REALLY inconvenient at the time to be on the side of the road w/o an oil filter, oil, or even a jack with which to get under the car! It totally blew my usual retort of "credit card and a can of fix-a-flat is all the spare I need" out of the water.
Tony
Tony
03-12-2005, 05:56 PM
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Originally Posted by BrandonSS
BMR K-members have broken and will continue to break. Mine did at the circular welds at the ends of the single tubular crossmember. If I had gone a few miles further, hit one pothole, or stabbed the brakes once more, the suspension would have collapsed.
BMR K-members expose the oil pan to road hazards, and if you run a long filter (such as the Mobil1 M1-206) that extends below the oil pan, your filter is also exposed. I managed to tear a hole in mine exiting a steep driveway that had some jagged concrete edges.
I apologize for the lack of clarity. My friend Jack Daniels distracted me.
Tony
03-12-2005, 06:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Muffracing
This kind makes me want to build my own K member, But if you were to use thicker tubing and gusests you will be adding back the weight. So the only thing you would do is make more room for headers or turbos.
pounds (K and motor mounts). The stocker is a freakin' sumo,
the BMR is a 98-lb weakling (the others look like about 97 or so).
This market needs a welterweight that can take it as well as
dish it out. Something designed for abuse. It could be done.
I know enough about my welding skills, not to employ them on
anything important
I made my own crossmember once, for aBuick V6 into Fiat Spider swap. It's easy to make one. But you
may be in for a few tries before you get to streetworthy and
it's a pain in the *** install, on these cars... let alone the
downside of "oops".
03-12-2005, 07:09 PM
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Like this... protects oil pan as well. Could make it bolt in with a few mods but I would be afraid drilling and tapping on the BMR would weaken it further. But on the other hand with the added support it might be stronger overall. I dont think it would hinder LT installs but if it did the bolt in would come into play and would be removable for easier access.
Photoshopped triangulation and additional crossmember
Before pic... fresh BMR installed on someones car.
http://www.bmrfabrication.com/K-Members/ls1.jpg
Photoshopped triangulation and additional crossmember
Before pic... fresh BMR installed on someones car.
http://www.bmrfabrication.com/K-Members/ls1.jpg
Last edited by BrandonSS; 03-12-2005 at 07:31 PM.
03-12-2005, 09:15 PM
#16
With my BMR k-member, I hit a ~10" high curb neary dead on. I was still able to drive the car nearly 600 miles home. The hit was hard enough I have no doubt it would have bent the frame with the stock k-member and I would have been standed 600 miles from home with a broken car.
IMO, after seeing what my BMR K-member survived, I wouldn't call anything about it weak.
IMO, after seeing what my BMR K-member survived, I wouldn't call anything about it weak.
.
03-13-2005, 11:48 PM
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Wasn't LG supposed to design a K-member with box steel I can't remember, but I believe that at one point LG was deciding to design a K-member built more for the rigors of AX and Roadracing. Wonder whatever happened to that?
03-14-2005, 05:58 AM
#19
Originally Posted by WILWAXU
With my BMR k-member, I hit a ~10" high curb neary dead on. I was still able to drive the car nearly 600 miles home. The hit was hard enough I have no doubt it would have bent the frame with the stock k-member and I would have been standed 600 miles from home with a broken car.
IMO, after seeing what my BMR K-member survived, I wouldn't call anything about it weak.
IMO, after seeing what my BMR K-member survived, I wouldn't call anything about it weak.
Count yourself lucky.
03-14-2005, 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Foxxton
I can't remember, but I believe that at one point LG was deciding to design a K-member built more for the rigors of AX and Roadracing. Wonder whatever happened to that?
It was sometime last year, maybe in the fall it was posted