Panhard and LCA factory bolts?
#1
Panhard and LCA factory bolts?
The bolts used by the factory are metric and a stepped design. The treaded end is just shy of 1/2" and then it steps up to just under 9/16". The aftermarket bars I just bought use 1/2" bolts. I am concerned about the slop on the bracket that is larger diameter to accommodate the 9/16 is going to eventually oblong. How have you dealt with this? Thanks.
#2
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Originally Posted by BadgeZ28
The bolts used by the factory are metric and a stepped design. The treaded end is just shy of 1/2" and then it steps up to just under 9/16". The aftermarket bars I just bought use 1/2" bolts. I am concerned about the slop on the bracket that is larger diameter to accommodate the 9/16 is going to eventually oblong. How have you dealt with this? Thanks.
#6
The panhard bar should have the correct size sleeve to accept the stock bolt
I agree completely. These are high wear points and there should be a tight fit or the chassis holes will oblong. I have tried two different bars and both are sized for 1/2". Whats with people selling sh#t like this? I even started sending e-mails to makers asking if their stuff accommodated stock bolts. I have not heard back from them yet. Sorry to vent, but this is dangerous when dealing with performance cars.
I agree completely. These are high wear points and there should be a tight fit or the chassis holes will oblong. I have tried two different bars and both are sized for 1/2". Whats with people selling sh#t like this? I even started sending e-mails to makers asking if their stuff accommodated stock bolts. I have not heard back from them yet. Sorry to vent, but this is dangerous when dealing with performance cars.
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#8
The factory LCA bolt is measures .465 on both ends the actual LCA bolt hole measures .515 much larger then the actual bolt.
The PHR bolt tapers from .545 to .465, the actual PHR bolt hole is .600 larger then the bolt (especially on the smaller .465 end).
Neither the above would be considered an intereference fit by any stretch. I don't think you have anything to worry about looking at the stock tolorances.
The PHR bolt tapers from .545 to .465, the actual PHR bolt hole is .600 larger then the bolt (especially on the smaller .465 end).
Neither the above would be considered an intereference fit by any stretch. I don't think you have anything to worry about looking at the stock tolorances.
#9
Originally Posted by steve10
The factory LCA bolt is measures .465 on both ends the actual LCA bolt hole measures .515 much larger then the actual bolt.
The PHR bolt tapers from .545 to .465, the actual PHR bolt hole is .600 larger then the bolt (especially on the smaller .465 end).
Neither the above would be considered an intereference fit by any stretch. I don't think you have anything to worry about looking at the stock tolorances.
The PHR bolt tapers from .545 to .465, the actual PHR bolt hole is .600 larger then the bolt (especially on the smaller .465 end).
Neither the above would be considered an intereference fit by any stretch. I don't think you have anything to worry about looking at the stock tolorances.
But since his panhard bar has a sleeve with a 1/2" hole in it the stock bolts are not going to work seeing there highest point is .545 then tappers to .465 (using your #'s) They just won't go through.
#10
ahh yea, good point, the bolt won't go through since the brackets are have a small diameter then the bolt.
The brackets which are probably ~1/16 material would need either drilled out with a 1/2 inch bit or I suppose use a round file if they didn't have a drill bit.
This would be necessary with the LCA's too assuming they are 1/2 inch. Should only take a few minutes for all holes if they have a drill.
Don't sweat it, you'll be ok Badge.
The brackets which are probably ~1/16 material would need either drilled out with a 1/2 inch bit or I suppose use a round file if they didn't have a drill bit.
This would be necessary with the LCA's too assuming they are 1/2 inch. Should only take a few minutes for all holes if they have a drill.
Don't sweat it, you'll be ok Badge.
#11
Well the stock arms are suspended in soft rubber and when you go to a stiff material like urethane or gimble rod ends this slop will be more evident. Maybe I am being to **** about it but the bar I just installed has the swivel rod ends and it is banging around under the car with 1/2" hardware.
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I used trackbird's PHB and with the sleeves he uses in the heim joints, I had absolutely no problem re-using the stock hardware. The sleeves he used allow no slop in my setup and I've had no noise whatsoever.
#13
Originally Posted by BadgeZ28
Well the stock arms are suspended in soft rubber and when you go to a stiff material like urethane or gimble rod ends this slop will be more evident. Maybe I am being to **** about it but the bar I just installed has the swivel rod ends and it is banging around under the car with 1/2" hardware.
For example your lower control arms use a 12mm bolt which is .472 in english. Well the closest tubing or the tubing size of choice for a manufacture is .500 ID. I agree that .030 of isnt worth worrying about.
#14
Originally Posted by 2w0s060
For example your lower control arms use a 12mm bolt which is .472 in english. Well the closest tubing or the tubing size of choice for a manufacture is .500 ID. I agree that .030 of isnt worth worrying about.
Well said