pimpmaro

What about when it rains and the duct throws a nice cool splash of rain water on hot brakes?

nytmare1

iTrader: (7)

I wouldn't think that would be a problem considering the brakes are exposed to the elements already. Plus, considering the hose is ribbed... I'd have to think that any rain deflected into the hose would most likely not make it all the way up. Now, it may be different if you drove into a huge puddle, but I still don't think it would have any ill effect on the rotors.

Marc

PrototypE

I would think there would have to be a LOT of water moving through that tube very quickly for that to be an issue.

pimpmaro

Well, my concern is that ducts are designed to concentrate airflow (a fluid) and in the event of splashes or puddles, it would concentrate the water and dump it on the rotor instead of the ambient splashes it's accustomed to. It was just a concern of mine.

PrototypE

Let's see some pics of your new ductwork setup, Judd!

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

On my duct idea, I would be using the factory T/A air inlet below the front turn signals. It is higher and more forward than the duct inlets normally mounted under the car. I just can't see it scooping up a bunch of water.

DONAIMIAN

iTrader: (18)

If I was to do ducts, im just gona hack up my front bumper and quater panels and install NACA ducts, label it a race car and call it a day. (ive been toying a lot with the idea).

Judd

iTrader: (1)

You can check out the link to my CarDomain page but remember that I've changed the scoops and air dam since then and it looks a heck of alot better now. I will try to get some up to date pics on there soon. Right now I'm in the midst of fighting Murphy off. He has really whooped up on my butt lately, my Firebird busted an axle Sunday and the fuel pump went out in my wife's daily driven Mustang later that day.

As far as the question on water hitting hot rotors, I have something like 20K on the car with the ducting under there. Plenty of rainy days in those 20K miles too!

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

Sounds like you are describing Jon Aadland's brake ducts. LINK

There's no need for all that cutting of the body work and if you have cruise control the module is going to prevent you from running the duct tubing to the rotor on the drivers side. You would have to mount the duct tubing real low to get it around the tire and then it would probably get tore up in short order. Like in this pic:

It looks like it's hanging too low in my opinion.

Going through the frame rail looks like the hot ticket. It's super clean and you can't even tell the car has ducts until you take one of the wheels off.
See how clean and tidy this duct design looks? And no rubbing when you turn the wheel.


Now, of course, you don't need to run 2 ducts, just one to the rotor hat will do the job.

DONAIMIAN

iTrader: (18)

I dont have cruise control anyways, and it would prolly be through the frame also. I thought about using the opening under the turn signal, but I didnt think it would pull enough air. With the way the bumper is designed on the pontiacs, I could see the fog light opening being the best bet. With the shape of the bumper I could see the air passing right over the holes on the sides.

PrototypE

Indeed, my thoughts exactly Stang Killer. You don't have cruise control? Did you remove it? I don't think I've ever seen a T/A without cruise.

Judd, I did check out your older setup, but I'm sure everyone wants to see pic's of your NEW setup!

Bummer about your axle, dude. Hmmm.
Can't expect too much of an s-10 ten bolt, I hear.

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

I think the air would get sucked into the hole just fine, but the opening is only about 20% larger than the cross section of 3" hose, so that's a bit smaller than the underbody scoops a lot of guys use. You could use the turn signal opening and mount a new light into the smaller hole beneath it.

You could use the fog light holes also, but you would have to take the front end off to modify the metal bumper. You'd need to drill 2 large holes in it and seal off the back side and ends. Then all the air going into the bumber will be forced into the frame rails. It's a lot more work, but if you still have the foglights, they will block most of the air.

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

Here is a pic comparing the sizes. Now the small lower hole is a bit larger than 3" tubing so you can see that the hole above is is quite a bit larger and the fog light hole is WAY larger.


I'm sure the fog light hole would force the most air to the rotor, but I think the smaller hole would still get the job done (considering almost no air is getting to the rotor right now) and with a grill would look totally stealth.

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

I mentioned I cracked my RotorPros with the heavy bedding session of the Carbotech Panther Pluses. I got 3 cracks in the outer half of each front rotor. Here are the pics.

Foxxtron

iTrader: (1)

I may be a little late spotting this thread, however if you've ever seen a silver '99 Z28 around north county, then you've seen a $2000 plus brake system that has floating blank rotors (no cross-drills, no slots, no dimples, etc.). It is also a brand that has been used for a majority of vehicles in different sanctioning bodies (including Speed World Challenge).

Stoptech allows you to get blank friction rings. Their sales staff even admit that those features are mostly looks, with the exception that slots have an ability to constantly wipe the face of your pads, thus shortening their life.

The only pads that require drilled rotors would be Pagid, since they warn that they severely outgas for most of their pad life, but why spend the money on them, since their performance hasn't been proven to last longer than ones that don't.

steveo346

iTrader: (18)

well i recently warped the **** outta my front rotors so im gonna end up buying some cheap and decent cross drilled rotors from pepboys....i think their called stoptech im not sure but their $48 bucks each...and they can also get me the hawk hps pads

Foxxtron

iTrader: (1)

I doubt they're stoptech's rotors for that cheap, since StopTech sells their blanks through their own website and/or company. You're probably talking about ProStop rotors.

Their description of their EBC rotors are simply a joke. If you'd like to not only warp, but also crack your rotors, definitely go for the cross drilled, slotted, dimpled, and other useless rotor face patterns because those rotor face patterns definitely weaken the rotors srtucture and cause stress risers, not to mention the rotor face patterns cause premature and uneven pad wear.

Read the Brake FAQ sticky for more details.

VIP1

....Or actually read the thread to which he/she replied.