Anyone sell a 1" drop?
05-31-2005, 10:09 PM
#1
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Anyone sell a 1" drop? Anyone sell just a rear set of 1" lowering springs. Many companies sell them but i just need the rears. Whose are the best?
06-01-2005, 08:16 AM
#2
The reason no one sells them is because there is no demand. Simply doing the hose mod will drop the rear about 3/4". If you need more drop, you can cut 1/4 of a coil off the big end with almost no change in rate.
So a 1" drop in the rear is practicaly a freebie.
So a 1" drop in the rear is practicaly a freebie.
06-01-2005, 09:37 AM
#6
Sold The Fun Stuff :(
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For a long time I ran HAL springs and shocks up front with BMR springs and HAL shocks in the rear. They sell just the rear springs. I had great luck with that setup. It rode decent, handled decent, and worked pretty good at the track also. If I had it to do over again, I'd just use the stock rear springs though, cut a small bit, and then use shims or spacers to get the exact height I was looking for.
06-01-2005, 09:42 AM
#7
Originally Posted by Strokinit383
Does anyone sell a spring spacer for the rear that will raise it up a little?
http://gmocart2.gmotion.com/store/me...ing_suspension
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06-01-2005, 09:45 AM
#8
Originally Posted by JasonWW
I don't like the localized stress that those place on the springs. It forces that coil to try to "kink" instead of just a gentle compression. I'm not sure it would ever be an issue, but I refuse to use those myself.
Just my thoughts.
06-01-2005, 10:19 AM
#9
Belive me, these spring are beefy. By using the spacer you are basically making a coil or half a coil dead (by not allowing it to compress). The spring is not going to bend around the spacer if that is what you are refering to.
What do you mean by ""kink" instead of just a gentle compression". Are you talking about the slight rotation of the metal rod as is compresses?
What do you mean by ""kink" instead of just a gentle compression". Are you talking about the slight rotation of the metal rod as is compresses?
06-01-2005, 11:20 AM
#10
No, I meant that it puts a "stress point" (Pivot point?, put a pencil between two of your fingers and squeeze them together at the ends.....stress point.....) in the center of a coil that would not see that type of localized load. That's all. Is it a big deal? Maybe not, I just won't use them myself.
06-01-2005, 11:31 AM
#11
I think I see what you mean. If, for instance, the metal was softer, it might bend around the spacer. I don't think that is any concern.
I'm actually using 4 of them in each spring on my car and have had no problems in the year I've run them.
Remember, the metal is so strong they resist compressing pretty well. You put one or more in with the spring uncompressed, then drop the cars weight on it and it simply doesn't allow that part of the coil to compress. It causes the ride height to go up a little also. They are a snug fit on the stock spring spacing and the cars weight keeps them in place.
You can also use a rubber spacer, they will compress under increasing loads, so they have about half the effect in ride height and rate change.
Lets say you need to use one metal spacer to get the height you want. Simply use 2 or 3 right next to each other to spread the load. It isn't necessary, but it should get rid of your worries, right?
I'm actually using 4 of them in each spring on my car and have had no problems in the year I've run them.
Remember, the metal is so strong they resist compressing pretty well. You put one or more in with the spring uncompressed, then drop the cars weight on it and it simply doesn't allow that part of the coil to compress. It causes the ride height to go up a little also. They are a snug fit on the stock spring spacing and the cars weight keeps them in place.
You can also use a rubber spacer, they will compress under increasing loads, so they have about half the effect in ride height and rate change.
Lets say you need to use one metal spacer to get the height you want. Simply use 2 or 3 right next to each other to spread the load. It isn't necessary, but it should get rid of your worries, right?
06-01-2005, 09:11 PM
#14
Originally Posted by Strokinit383
Doesnt someone make a circular spacer that sits below the spring? I know ive seen one before just cant remember who made it.
Of course GC makes their rear kit and is fully adjustable. It runs $200.
Allstar makes a similar kit using non-pigtailed springs for a little less.
Here they are side by side:
The best I've seen was the Budzter kit.
http://www.budzter.com/adjusters.html
For about half the price ($100) you can get some stiffer stock height springs and simply trim them down a little.
Then you have some even cheaper choices:
Weld in weight jacks.
http://www.cmwraceparts.com/Springs/springs37.html
These spacers can be trimmed to height:
http://www.cmwraceparts.com/Springs/springs36.html
There may be more similar parts here:
http://www.pitstopusa.com/shocks_springs.htm
Or you could make your own spacers. Take a piece of tubing just small enough to slide into the hole in the rear lower spring perch (like the exhaust tubing connectors found in autoparts stores). Then take a flat donut shaped ring (like an exhaust flange) and weld it to the center of the tubing. That will make the spring sit up at least 1/2". You can then stack more flanges on top of the first one to raise the height in 1/4 increments.
Or another tactic would be to cut out some 5" spacers from a tough plastic and mount it to the top of the spring.
The basics of adjusting the rear height are pretty simple and there are many ways to make some kind of adjusters, either fixed or adjustable. It just depends on your pocketbook or welding equipment. I was going to use a trick adjuster that could be changed by sliding under the car and turning a big nut with a socket wrench. Super fast and easy, but since I pretty much set the height and keep it in that one spot, I went with a cheaper solution.
Hope that helps.
Jason
Last edited by JasonWW; 06-02-2005 at 12:44 PM.
06-02-2005, 10:51 AM
#15
EDIT: Im retarded. This is not f-body info.
You can cut out circles from a plastic poly cutting board and drill holes in the middle. Those will act as spacers for the rear if you put them just above the spring rubbers.
Last edited by GuitsBoy; 06-02-2005 at 12:21 PM.
06-02-2005, 11:24 AM
#16
Originally Posted by GuitsBoy
You can cut out circles from a plastic poly cutting board and drill holes in the middle. Those will act as spacers for the rear if you put them just above the spring rubbers.
You say use a plastic cutting board? Like a kitchen cutting board?
06-02-2005, 11:26 AM
#17
Originally Posted by JasonWW
That's what I was talking about above. I know it's been done before with good results.
You say use a plastic cutting board? Like a kitchen cutting board?
You say use a plastic cutting board? Like a kitchen cutting board?
Yes, you can get them from k-mart for cheap, and theyre big enough to get a few spacers from. You can double up if need be. The poly its made from is damn near indestructible.
Last edited by GuitsBoy; 06-02-2005 at 12:22 PM.
06-02-2005, 11:38 AM
#18
Have you done it? I'm wondering if they would need to be glued to the chassis so as not to fall out when jacking the car up. If you were to stack them, is it likely for the spring top to no longer center itself? I know there is a big dimple to center the top, so if you push the spring lower, it won't be in the dimple, right?
I've never tried this type of spacer, so I'm just wondering about the details.
I've never tried this type of spacer, so I'm just wondering about the details.
06-02-2005, 11:46 AM
#19
EDIT: Im retarded. This is not f-body info.
Ive not done it myself, my friend was explaining it to me. Although i do hack up those cutting boards for other hobbies so i can attest to their durability. If theyre the same outer diameter as the rubber top spring seat, and you place it on top of the seat, but below the sheet metal, the spring will keep it held in place when you jack up the car. Besides, the small center hole you need to drill will go over the shock shaft and keep the disk on there. Basically, you want something that looks like a thick CD sandwiched between the rubber and the car.
Last edited by GuitsBoy; 06-02-2005 at 12:22 PM.
06-02-2005, 12:08 PM
#20
I'm not sure if you know what the spring and seat look like back there. Here's a pic showing the dimple stamped into the sheetmetal. Now the spacer you cut out would have to be about 5 1/2" around to match the outer spring diameter with a 4" hole in the middle so the dimple can stick through.
