ABS inop and Low trac
09-04-2005, 02:15 PM
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ABS inop and Low trac I have these lights that come on intermitantly and they are so spontaneous that I can't figure out how to not make them come on or even force them to come on. Also sometimes when they come on the brake pedal pulsates. Any ideas? This is the first forum I have posted this in, if you have any other suggestions as to where a good place for this post would be I'd appreciate it.
BTW I belive it started with the install of the Strange 12bolt.
BTW I belive it started with the install of the Strange 12bolt.
09-04-2005, 03:26 PM
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§i have a 2002 ws6 and have the same problem..... some times when i drive and i come to a stop, and just before i completly stop the brakes pulse...and low trac comes on!!!
Were do you check to see that everything is ok?
Were do you check to see that everything is ok?
09-04-2005, 03:35 PM
#5
The pulsing pedal is the ABS working. Obviously the computer thought a wheel had locked up. Are you guys feeling this under hard braking or just normal street braking? Are you locking a wheel?
It's normal for the low trac light to come on when the ABS is activated.
It's normal for the low trac light to come on when the ABS is activated.
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09-04-2005, 07:32 PM
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Originally Posted by JasonWW
Sometimes different sized tires front and rear can do that. Are you running similar sized tires?
Yea the overall tire height is the same on my car. (17x9s and 17x11) Is it normal for the actual pedal to pulsate for the ABS or just the wheels? I have never taken the car out in the snow to find out.
09-04-2005, 07:47 PM
#9
I know that different diameter tires can cause the light to come on, but I don't know about the ABS cycling.
The pulsation you feel is from the solenoids activating in the ABS block. There is one soleniod per wheel. Each corner of a traction control car has a wheel speed sensor. A non-traction control car has the 2 up front in the hub and a single inductor gear inside the differential which monitors both rear wheels. When the computer senses one or more wheels is turning at a much slower rate or has stopped turning under braking, the soleniod going to that particular wheel opens and bleeds off brake pressure to allow it to continue to turn, thereby allowing that tire to maintain grip. When the soleniods are cycling you feel it in the pedal as pulsations.
With KCFormula's car, the problem may be due to the different rear axle.
In general, if I had to guess, you may both have either a loose wire or connection to one of the wheel sensors or else one sensor is going bad. This can be hard to diagnose by yourself. I would recommend trying different types of braking to make it a repeatable thing and then take it to a dealer and have them record the computer data while driving. That's when you need to make the lights come on.
The only thing I think you can do yourself would be to check all the wiring and the connectors to the speed sensors. Check the wires with the wheel turned all the way in both directions to make sure it isn't pulling on a wire.
The pulsation you feel is from the solenoids activating in the ABS block. There is one soleniod per wheel. Each corner of a traction control car has a wheel speed sensor. A non-traction control car has the 2 up front in the hub and a single inductor gear inside the differential which monitors both rear wheels. When the computer senses one or more wheels is turning at a much slower rate or has stopped turning under braking, the soleniod going to that particular wheel opens and bleeds off brake pressure to allow it to continue to turn, thereby allowing that tire to maintain grip. When the soleniods are cycling you feel it in the pedal as pulsations.
With KCFormula's car, the problem may be due to the different rear axle.
In general, if I had to guess, you may both have either a loose wire or connection to one of the wheel sensors or else one sensor is going bad. This can be hard to diagnose by yourself. I would recommend trying different types of braking to make it a repeatable thing and then take it to a dealer and have them record the computer data while driving. That's when you need to make the lights come on.
The only thing I think you can do yourself would be to check all the wiring and the connectors to the speed sensors. Check the wires with the wheel turned all the way in both directions to make sure it isn't pulling on a wire.
09-07-2005, 05:18 PM
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I had the same problem, my abs would start going on during normal braking, scan the abs computer and see if there are any codes, I had two codes, forgot which ones they were, but I fixed the problem by simply removing the abs fuse.
09-12-2005, 12:31 PM
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well i checked the wires and they look fine....now my abs inop comes on all the time.
Is there no one that had this problem and solved it? please help
gm dealers in sweden dont know ****! so i dont know what to do...... really want the abs to work.
Is there no one that had this problem and solved it? please help
gm dealers in sweden dont know ****! so i dont know what to do...... really want the abs to work.
09-12-2005, 01:43 PM
#14
Doski, did you check all the wires and right afterwards the "abs inop" comes on all the time?
If that's the case, you may have had a loose wire and when you checked them it completely disconnected.
Being in Sweden you are at a big disadvantage for this kind of problem. Let me try and do some basic wiring diagnoses.
We'll start up front. When you unplug the hub sensor, how many electrical connectors are in the plug, 2?
If that's the case, you may have had a loose wire and when you checked them it completely disconnected.
Being in Sweden you are at a big disadvantage for this kind of problem. Let me try and do some basic wiring diagnoses.
We'll start up front. When you unplug the hub sensor, how many electrical connectors are in the plug, 2?
09-12-2005, 02:46 PM
#15
clean your battery terminals
even if your getting good amperage check them, the first things that lose power are ABS/TCS, so try cleaning the terminals (and/or checking the battery/alternator) and making sure it's just not getting good contact, or your battery/alt are going bad.
awhile back I thought my alternator was going out, because I had the same problem, turns out it was just the terminals were so dirty it was getting rigid contact spikes hehe.
+ make sure your rear harness is plugged in correctly.
even if your getting good amperage check them, the first things that lose power are ABS/TCS, so try cleaning the terminals (and/or checking the battery/alternator) and making sure it's just not getting good contact, or your battery/alt are going bad.
awhile back I thought my alternator was going out, because I had the same problem, turns out it was just the terminals were so dirty it was getting rigid contact spikes hehe.
+ make sure your rear harness is plugged in correctly.
