awesome handling
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 8,139
Likes: 10
From: Chillicothe/Lima, Ohio
awesome handling i want my 95 Z to handle so good you think its gonna take flight insted of go around the turn. whats the best to go. but i also want to take it to the drags and be able to bring the wheels off the ground a few inches and run about low 12's to high 11s
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Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Eastern MA
Originally Posted by bww3588
i want my 95 Z to handle so good you think its gonna take flight insted of go around the turn.
That doesnt sound right. I think broken sway bars, flat tires, blown shocks or just a slick road and bald tires (or slicks) can send you flying. I think you mean that you would like it to handle like its on rails.
In which case (if you want to go all out):
* shocks
* larger sway bars
* stiffer springs
* stickier tires (on larger & wider wheels to facilitate shorter sidewalls and improved contact patch)
* rod-ended rear lower contol arms
* rod-ended panhard rod
* rod-ended front A-arms
* sub-frame connectors
Thats just a rough list, not a buying guide.
This will also give you a stiff ride (since the rod-ended stuff are race parts).
Originally Posted by bww3588
but i also want to take it to the drags and be able to bring the wheels off the ground a few inches and run about low 12's to high 11s
You need to look at it as an entire system and buy components that complement eachother. If you want more specifics, do some searching and reading in this section (Handling & Braking) and give Give Sam Strano a call. He can help you out.
Last edited by VIP1; Nov 26, 2005 at 10:27 PM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 8,139
Likes: 10
From: Chillicothe/Lima, Ohio
Sam Strano? i done some research and came up with QA-1's. however id like to have somthing that dosent need to be ajusted constantly. i think perhaps i will go all out road/auto x with my Z and build my s10 for an all out drag truck.
I would like to chime in by warning you that our salisbury rear axles don't handle narrow sidewalls too well when it comes to lateral grip. The largest wheel diameter should be 17 inches to the standard overall tire and wheel diameter (essentially a plus one size from stock 16 inch). As far as the tread width, you can definitely go wider.
Adjustible shocks only need to be adjusted when you either, desire to change the shock performance for the desired driving condition, or change spring rate and/or ride height. The QA1's aren't really great shocks when it comes to adjustibility. Like KYB's, their single adjustible shocks simultaneously adjust rebound and compression, not particularly desirable when you really should adjust rebound when your compression is where you want it.
Adjustible shocks only need to be adjusted when you either, desire to change the shock performance for the desired driving condition, or change spring rate and/or ride height. The QA1's aren't really great shocks when it comes to adjustibility. Like KYB's, their single adjustible shocks simultaneously adjust rebound and compression, not particularly desirable when you really should adjust rebound when your compression is where you want it.
You can unhook the front swaybar at the track, and even drop in stock rear springs pretty quickly. Although with front 550+ front spring rates, weight transistion is not optimal. But you can make a lowered handling car work 'ok' at the track.
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 8,139
Likes: 10
From: Chillicothe/Lima, Ohio
Originally Posted by Foxxton
I would like to chime in by warning you that our salisbury rear axles don't handle narrow sidewalls too well when it comes to lateral grip. The largest wheel diameter should be 17 inches to the standard overall tire and wheel diameter (essentially a plus one size from stock 16 inch). As far as the tread width, you can definitely go wider.
Adjustible shocks only need to be adjusted when you either, desire to change the shock performance for the desired driving condition, or change spring rate and/or ride height. The QA1's aren't really great shocks when it comes to adjustibility. Like KYB's, their single adjustible shocks simultaneously adjust rebound and compression, not particularly desirable when you really should adjust rebound when your compression is where you want it.
Adjustible shocks only need to be adjusted when you either, desire to change the shock performance for the desired driving condition, or change spring rate and/or ride height. The QA1's aren't really great shocks when it comes to adjustibility. Like KYB's, their single adjustible shocks simultaneously adjust rebound and compression, not particularly desirable when you really should adjust rebound when your compression is where you want it.
Actually, I'd like to rephrase that our rear-end handling, rather than the rear axle durability. Without hogging the thread, you need some lateral stress in your tires so you can detect it's limit before it breaks loose on a corner.
From what I've heard (inside and outside this forum) IAS's aren't a very good shock for high performance mobility. Before I made the move up to motorsport shocks, I ran some Koni DA's, though Koni SA's would serve you better for what you want. As expensive as they are, they're every bit worth the money.
Shock tower braces are mostly placebo when it comes to improving handling. The discussions about them has been beat to death, so I will encourage you to perform a search on that one. If you care to improve front end sway, choose a larger sway bar. The front ends on F-body's are very rigid due to a well designed K-member and front end chassis design from the factory.
In regards to trailing arms, go for a high quality rod-end, not poly. Once again this also is a beaten subject, so I will let you perform a search. Binding is what you want to avoid when it comes to handling, because it can make the rear-end break loose unexpectedly in a corner.
From what I've heard (inside and outside this forum) IAS's aren't a very good shock for high performance mobility. Before I made the move up to motorsport shocks, I ran some Koni DA's, though Koni SA's would serve you better for what you want. As expensive as they are, they're every bit worth the money.
Shock tower braces are mostly placebo when it comes to improving handling. The discussions about them has been beat to death, so I will encourage you to perform a search on that one. If you care to improve front end sway, choose a larger sway bar. The front ends on F-body's are very rigid due to a well designed K-member and front end chassis design from the factory.
In regards to trailing arms, go for a high quality rod-end, not poly. Once again this also is a beaten subject, so I will let you perform a search. Binding is what you want to avoid when it comes to handling, because it can make the rear-end break loose unexpectedly in a corner.
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Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Eastern MA
Originally Posted by bww3588
Sam Strano?
He is a Sponsor of LS1Tech as well.
Check out his shop online at www.stranoparts.com
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