Replacing brake lines
Replacing brake lines I would like to see a write up or brief explanation on replacing brake lines. Most importantly if there's any special tools involved, how to do it, and how do you keep the master cylinder from completely emptying out. Thanks
John
John
Which lines? If you are just swapping the rubber lines for new ones or swapping to braided steel lines, it's not bad at all. I usually remove the clip that holds the hose to the chassis and remove the caliper end first (then you can either hold it up in the air, have someone "plug" it with their fingers or just disconnect the other side and drop it in a catch pan (or on the floor, but it saves some cleanup). Spin the new hose onto the hard line on the body, then do the caliper end (don't forget to use 2 copper crush washers).
When you remove the hose, it does not just "pour" out, it will run at a slow pace. I just top off the master cylinder and leave the cap on while I do the swap. After swapping one side, I usually bleed that side, then I do the other and bleed it right away. Just to minimize any air that might be trying to find its way to the ABS module. It's probably overkill, but it can't hurt.
If you want to flush the fluid from the whole system while you're at it, you can usually do it with about 3/4 liter of brake fluid.
When you remove the hose, it does not just "pour" out, it will run at a slow pace. I just top off the master cylinder and leave the cap on while I do the swap. After swapping one side, I usually bleed that side, then I do the other and bleed it right away. Just to minimize any air that might be trying to find its way to the ABS module. It's probably overkill, but it can't hurt.
If you want to flush the fluid from the whole system while you're at it, you can usually do it with about 3/4 liter of brake fluid.
Cool man, thanks! Crush washers? I'm unfamiliar with these. Can I reuse the stock ones? I'm getting Earls braided lines. Do you know if they come with everything needed for the swap including the washers? Which brake fluid to you recommend also?
Originally Posted by joblo1978
Cool man, thanks! Crush washers? I'm unfamiliar with these. Can I reuse the stock ones? I'm getting Earls braided lines. Do you know if they come with everything needed for the swap including the washers? Which brake fluid to you recommend also?
The washers are made of copper and one goes between the caliper and the hose and one between the hose end and the bolt that holds the hose to the caliper. Just put one on each side of the hose end (for the caliper side) and tighten them down. You can't reuse them in most cases, typically they'll leak (almost every time). The hoses should come with new ones. Also, don't go overboard when tightening that bolt into the caliper, it's hollow so it can pass fluid and you can snap it off (or pull the threads right out of the caliper).
I run ATE Superblue. There are better fluids (Castrol SRF), but the ATE is about $10 a liter and the Castrol is $70+ a liter. I just change between the ATE Superblue and the ATE "Type 200", it's the same fluid, but one is gold and one is blue. That makes it easy to see when you are getting fresh fluid out of the car (so you know when it's all been flushed).
Originally Posted by FL01SS
Every brake line kit I've seen has had new washers with it. Why did you go with Earl's? I'm about to change my lines too and can't figure out what's a good brand.
Thanks everyone, sounds like it shouldn't be too hard at all. I've done rotor and pad installs an assload of times just never any bleeding. I'm going to be installing Earls SS lines along with a LL, rotors, pads, and painting the calipers all at the same time. I think I'll be able to handle it now.
The reason I went with Earls is because Thunder Racing has a good deal them. Also good price on the bleeders too.
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