If you are considering a Spohn Torque arm..forget about lowering the car *pic*
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If you are considering a Spohn Torque arm..forget about lowering the car *pic*
That is......if you have headers and Y pipe and opt for the adjustable torque arm that's body mounted and which has the cross member that has more clearance for Y pipes.
I was going to lower my car, but not anymore. But that's ok, I rather have a strong torque arm and no wheel hop than a low car.
Compromises....the way of life.
Just figured I'd post this for any of you guys considering that torque arm and who aren't aware how much it cuts into your ground clearance.
Manny
I was going to lower my car, but not anymore. But that's ok, I rather have a strong torque arm and no wheel hop than a low car.
Compromises....the way of life.
Just figured I'd post this for any of you guys considering that torque arm and who aren't aware how much it cuts into your ground clearance.
Manny
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Dude, half way up a soda can is pretty damn bad! LOL!
By the way, I'd invest into some longer bolts, Spohn sells them. With the ones from Spohn the entire nut is covered and about a half inch of the bolt sticks out past the nut.
By the way, I'd invest into some longer bolts, Spohn sells them. With the ones from Spohn the entire nut is covered and about a half inch of the bolt sticks out past the nut.
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Originally Posted by MannyZ28
Dude, half way up a soda can is pretty damn bad! LOL!
By the way, I'd invest into some longer bolts, Spohn sells them. With the ones from Spohn the entire nut is covered and about a half inch of the bolt sticks out past the nut.
By the way, I'd invest into some longer bolts, Spohn sells them. With the ones from Spohn the entire nut is covered and about a half inch of the bolt sticks out past the nut.
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Originally Posted by MannyZ28
That is......if you have headers and Y pipe and opt for the adjustable torque arm that's body mounted and which has the cross member that has more clearance for Y pipes.
I was going to lower my car, but not anymore. But that's ok, I rather have a strong torque arm and no wheel hop than a low car.
Compromises....the way of life.
Just figured I'd post this for any of you guys considering that torque arm and who aren't aware how much it cuts into your ground clearance.
Manny
I was going to lower my car, but not anymore. But that's ok, I rather have a strong torque arm and no wheel hop than a low car.
Compromises....the way of life.
Just figured I'd post this for any of you guys considering that torque arm and who aren't aware how much it cuts into your ground clearance.
Manny
Here's something to consider. I have the same TA that you do and wanted to lower mine too. I went ahead and lowered the car (fenders above centers of wheels are 26.5 inches in front and 27.5 in back, I cut my stock springs). Of course, the cross member scraped on everything. When I took a look under there, I had plenty of room for the exhaust, mine is tucked up well. I contacted Spohn and bought the straight cross member and just installed it yesterday. No banging and no more scraping over everthing. I was never sure why the different cross members in the first place. In both cases, you just have the I-pipe passing through. And yes, I have Pacesetter long tubes and ORY.
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Yes the longer bolts give extra security. Some guys had issues with the rear mount breaking because they didn't use any washers to spread the load out since the washer would have been too thick for the lenght of thread left on the bolt.
No my car is not lowered at all, completely stock. I am also wondering about just getting a straight crossmember and spacing things out to make it fit. After all, my Y has quite a bit of clerance.
No my car is not lowered at all, completely stock. I am also wondering about just getting a straight crossmember and spacing things out to make it fit. After all, my Y has quite a bit of clerance.
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Well, I know that your car is an SS so its a bit lower than Z28s, but I have the Spohn tq. arm and mine does not hang nearly that low. It is low, but not anything like that. I think I could still lower a little and not have problems. I have stock springs/shocks btw.
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Originally Posted by CW00BlackTA
I should add that I use half inch rubber spacers between the cross member and the mount to reduce vibration--also gives extra clearance. It's a tight fit but works.
When you swapped out crossmembers, did the car have to be on a lift for that, or could I just put it on ramps, undo all the bolts and swap out the crossmembers and put it all back together?
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Originally Posted by MannyZ28
When you swapped out crossmembers, did the car have to be on a lift for that, or could I just put it on ramps, undo all the bolts and swap out the crossmembers and put it all back together?
I did it in the garage with the car on stands. It's easy as long as you prevent the rear from rotating when you disconnect the TA. I have a drive shaft loop and forgot to put a stand under the pinion. When it rotates, it's just a pain to line it up again but do-able. Without the loop, it should take a half hour.