Tobynine9

iTrader: (17)

It's a street driven car. No track time. No major engine mods (yet). Doing all the normal suspension changes, including Koni SAs as soon as I can afford it. So before anyone says I don't need to stiffen the chassis, I just need different shocks - I know. I know that SFCs may not be entirely necessary, won't make the car faster, etc. I just want a tighter, stiffer feel to the car. I can feel the t-tops and steering column wiggle and move when I hit a bump and I don't like that.

All that said, will a Wolfe 6-point add the same flex resistance that a good set of DD SFCs will? I've read before that if you don't mind moving over the bar and ruining the car's resale that the roll bar is the better way to go as it will tie everything together just as nicely while adding a good bit of occupant protection should, God forbid, the car be wrecked.

Any input?

I'm planning on taking out the interior sometime in the next few months (depending on how soon I get into my new house) to replace the POS Monsoon stereo which would be a good time to weld in the roll bar if that's what I choose.

blue01ta

iTrader: (4)

Actually SFC's can make the car a little faster. Less chassis flex means less HP is used to move the car. Not much of a difference but it does help. A cage would make your ride safer but I wouldn't get one just to strengthen the chassis. Like you said it kinda ruins the interior and resale value if you ever "NEED" to sell the car. I would go with SFC's first and see how you like them and if they're not enough then get the cage. I have UMI SFC's and they work great. Also a sponsor and a good company to deal with. IMHO

93formto98T/A

iTrader: (28)

I have heard some folks say if they were to do it over again that they would just do the cage and skip the sfc's. As for me, I'm going with a wolfe chr-mo 6pt cage with additional bars connecting the bottom of the door bars with bottom of the main hoop, in effect, bracing the rear half to the front.

prince xizor

iTrader: (2)

Just keep this in mind when going w/ a cage, what will happen to your head when you arent wearing your helmet and you get T boned? How about hit from the rear? The anwser is your head is going to hit bar and you might be worse off from that impact than the crash.

Tobynine9

iTrader: (17)

Yeah, how close is that main hoop to the front seats? I sit pretty close 'cause my legs aren't all that long and I feel like I have better control over the... controls when I'm a bit closer.

LS69TA

iTrader: (30)

Just wear a helmet when driving. J/K. I'm considering a 4pt. bar, but I sit kinda far back so the main hoop will end up pretty close to my head.

11SECSS

iTrader: (199)

So put some padding on the bar which is required where it comes in contact with your body, I sit in mine and my head would not hit the bar unless I wasn't wearing my seat belt which would cause me to be tossed around.

93formto98T/A

iTrader: (28)

Well, with a kirkey road race seat and 5pt harness, I don't expect enought movement in a collision to hit much of anything.

DONAIMIAN

iTrader: (18)

A cage is a great idea to stiffen up the car, its just comes down to if you want a 4tp or a 6pt. If you plan to open track the car, the best way to get a cage is to go custom. The wolfe cages use ERW tubing instead of DOM and a lot of times ERW isnt accepted at the road course. Also with going custom, you can et the main hoop tucked back into the b-pillar more providing extra head clearence. The padding that you see available for roll bars was intended to stop head trauma while weraing a helmet, not you bear head....its still pretty hard even with the padding. With the kinkey road race seats, be prepared to instal a brace that runs from the back of that seat to the crossbar of the cage to support the seat back (aluminum seats arent all that stiff) unless you change your mind and get an FIA approved seat.

I thinik I covered everything.