ADJ TQ arms
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From: The beautiful Kingdom of Bahrain
ADJ TQ arms What aplications need them? I found a non adj I want but I'm not sure if I should go adjustable. What are other ways to adjust the pinion angle?
If you raise or lower the car, the pinion angle will change slightly. Adjustable T/A are really meant for dialing in race cars. Most non ajdustable arms are set at 2° which is good for street use.
IMO, go with the non adjustable (BMR) unless you want to mess with the chassis setup which 98% of poeple dont do...it's not really necessary anyway.
IMO, go with the non adjustable (BMR) unless you want to mess with the chassis setup which 98% of poeple dont do...it's not really necessary anyway.
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From: The beautiful Kingdom of Bahrain
so if I only hit the track 4-8 times a month with my daily driver would that fall under race alot or weekend warrior? Also what do you all think of this http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...1335&langId=-1
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The problem with the Jegs torque arm is it requires removal of the interior for installation. It also requires drilling approx. 30 holes into the floor/tunnel of the vehicle to mount it. I recommend to go with a bolt on set-up then can be installed in less then a hour. If you would like let me know and I will be glad to set you up 
Ryan
Ryan
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From: The beautiful Kingdom of Bahrain
That's good to know. Actually Ive had my eye on the UMI piece but I just cant justify the cost of an adjustable at the moment when I may I dont see the track that often. I hate to say it but I'm more light to light. What's the best price you can do for your adjustable and non adj for long tube headers and drive saftey loop?
Well we do offer the non-adjustable version as well for the reasons you just specified you didn't want adjustable. I will send you a PM with some more information.
Thank you
Thank you
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From: Spring Hill, TN
I would go with adjustable just so you can dial in your pinion angle. If you lower the car this should be considered almost mandatory. Otherwise you will have to live with the consequences of a bad pinion angle which are wheel hop and vibration.
i'm trying to learn all this the best i can as i go. with this being said, my springs are here. shocks, panhard bar, and relocation brackets are on the way. is a torque arm something that i can get away with not needing? or is this another "should go ahead and do it while i'm doing the rest"? long tube headers, and a moser 12 bolt rear end is on the car if that matters at all. may go to the drag strip once a year. i'm more of a light to light guy.
it sounds like if i get relocation brackets, i may not need a torque arm? or is there something else i'm missing?
it sounds like if i get relocation brackets, i may not need a torque arm? or is there something else i'm missing?
Adjustable torque arms decouple pinion angle / drive
line angle from torque arm angle. The latter sets the
suspension reaction (w/ LCAs), the former nulls vibration.
-2 degrees is the static setting for a soft-mounts car to
get zero driveline angle under load and minimze vibe. The
torque arm angle for optimum bite is a whole 'nother
deal, wants to be set up at the nose (not back by the
pumpkin) and you can't do that without a relocating
front mount (tunnel or crossmember, either one will be
harsh). For other suspension geometry changes you may
need adjustability. But the adjustability you get within
the TA itself, is not what you need for tuning the bite
reaction. That's a misconception IMO, which just so
happens to push product.
Relo brackets are the other (easier, quieter) way to change
the instant center. Relos raise and pull back; an adjustable
TA front mount would lower and pull back for the same job.
Higher = more weight transfer, so I'd go with the relos and
only get an adjustable TA if you are dealing with a large
height difference from stock. Otherwise, no adjustment
setup hassle, no rod-end play to clunk, and less cost.
All you want really is stiffer (if you don't need to jack the
pinion angle for vibration reasons).
line angle from torque arm angle. The latter sets the
suspension reaction (w/ LCAs), the former nulls vibration.
-2 degrees is the static setting for a soft-mounts car to
get zero driveline angle under load and minimze vibe. The
torque arm angle for optimum bite is a whole 'nother
deal, wants to be set up at the nose (not back by the
pumpkin) and you can't do that without a relocating
front mount (tunnel or crossmember, either one will be
harsh). For other suspension geometry changes you may
need adjustability. But the adjustability you get within
the TA itself, is not what you need for tuning the bite
reaction. That's a misconception IMO, which just so
happens to push product.
Relo brackets are the other (easier, quieter) way to change
the instant center. Relos raise and pull back; an adjustable
TA front mount would lower and pull back for the same job.
Higher = more weight transfer, so I'd go with the relos and
only get an adjustable TA if you are dealing with a large
height difference from stock. Otherwise, no adjustment
setup hassle, no rod-end play to clunk, and less cost.
All you want really is stiffer (if you don't need to jack the
pinion angle for vibration reasons).