ls12000

what are the best/good brakes for 00 T/A im intrested in slotted/crossdrilled what are some good brands out there so i may research them thanks

VictorT

There are many brakes out there, but a good place to start is to ask; what are you planning on doing with the car? I have several kits that may interest you; here is a picture, so let me know if you would like additional info or pricing...




Friendly regards,

ls12000

Basically my car is a daily driver. and iam eventually going to add more mods such as a cam or i may go turbo. I have a few mods now but iam intrested in getting an upgrade on brakes rather than the stock brake system i have now

VictorT

Hi,

Well that is good to know... Pads are always a good place to start, but since you are considering further mods, it may be time to consider a complete upgrade. I would much rather see people considering brakes before major engine mods than after since OE brakes are not that great in the first place. Im sure it would be better to know that you have the power to stop anything your engine can put out rather than wishing you had the power after the fact. Let me know, and I will be happy to elaborate on your options... Good luck

ls12000

what would be the price of a complete set up ? cross drilled/slotted

2000BLKSupersport

I recently installed PBR front pads along with WS6 store front cross drilled and slotted rotors, and rear Brembo brakes with hawk pads. I love them. I used to buy Auto Zone and O'reillys rotors and pads but they always would squeal after the first three weeks. I purchased the pads and brembo blanks from sam strano performance.

VictorT

Hello,

The kit shown (13inch 2pc w/ 4 piston calipers) goes for $1199, and there is a matching rear set which includes ebrake for $1619. That would be your total cost since we offer to all LS1 members free shipping and a free 6 pack of Wilwood high temp brake fluid. Now, I do have a 6 piston set up for the front as well as matching 14inch kits front and rear if you would be more interested in one of these. Let me know if you would like to know anything else.

Regards,

69TA

iTrader: (263)

Victor,

Do you guys also make custom front brake rotors?

I am looking for a two piece floating rotor 14.25-14.5" x 1.25"

Thanks,
Kevin

VictorT

We can do that, but the closest I could get is a 14 x 1.25. Let me know if this would work for you.

Regards

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

Gm stock pads and $30 Wagners work very nice on a street car.

I ran a whole season on 2 sets Carbotech XP10s and 1 set $30 Wagner rotors on my CMC road race car.

If you want bling, S/CD are the ticket. Lot's ao WOW. But they don't add any WHOA.

ls14pwr

iTrader: (1)

Like he said. They look freakin awsome, but its a fact that they crack in between the crossdrilles and dont last as long as non s/cd.

11 Bravo

iTrader: (3)

I believe it depends on weather they are cheapos with the holes drilled through or if they are actually made in the molding (or whatever you call it). But they do serve a purpose besides looks otherwise race cars would not run them.

The cross-drilling, seemingly the stuff of wannabe racer Civics, is worth more than poseur points; it actually helps the brakes work better. Under hard braking, a brake pad's bonding agents burn off and produce gases. Cross-drilled holes allow those gases to vent, helping to prevent brake fade. Also, when water contaminates the rotor's surface, the holes allow moisture and muck out rather than causing the pad to "float" over the surface of the rotor.
Cross-drilling also improves rotor cooling, again defeating brake fade. On cross-drilled rotors, temperatures can be reduced by as much as 200 degrees during extreme braking when compared to stock rotors. Since braking is essentially the absorption of a moving vehicle's kinetic energy and conversion into heat, rotors that quickly and efficiently dissipate heat perform better. Cross-drilled rotors increase rate of heat dissipation by increasing surface area, allowing gases to escape, and increasing air flow.

BlackHawk T/A

iTrader: (3)

I believe that should read, "decreasing"...

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

I refuse to argue the S/CD point. It has been beaten to death and even a 6 year old can search enough to find the answers.

I will say this about "otherwise race cars would not run them"...

REAL race cars that use REAL S/CD rotors have REAL race brake budgets well into 5 figures. REAL S/CD rotors can cost upwards of $500 each and only need to last 1 race.

http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?fo...action=product

z28bryan

iTrader: (7)

I always get a kick out of these drilled and slotted explainations

Zepher

get some new wheels and then get the C6 Z06 brake setup.
6 piston fronts with 6 pads, and 4 piston rears with 4 pads.

VIP1

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Cross-Drilled/Slotted rotors are not an upgrade.

Check out this thread:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes/435436-do-i-really-need-cross-drilled-slotted-rotors.html

If you really want to upgrade your brakes, get larger rotors, better fluid, more aggressive pads and stickier tires.......yes I said tires too. Tires are your car's contact with the ground. Once you lock up your brakes, its your tires that are limmiting your stopping ability.

You dont need a "big brake kit" to get larger rotors either. You can upgrade to Corvette 13" front rotors with a relocation braket. Also, pad selection makes a big difference in braking performance.
[/COPY & PASTE]