How the hell do i get the studs out?
#1
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How the hell do i get the studs out?
Two of the wheel studs on the driver's side front broke off. I removed the caliper, bracket, and rotor. When i searched, it sounded so easy: Just hammer out the old and hammer in the new. The problem is that both studs that broke off were broken off really deep and hammering them doesn't seem to be doing the trick. I don't know if anyone on here has had a similar experience, but i have no idea on the best way to get these out. Needless to say, i have given up for now after trying for a while to get these damn studs out. Any help or insight is greatly appreciated. Thanks.
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Originally Posted by Racer8102
I used an air hammer with a pointed attachment on it, took me about 20 seconds on each stud.
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#8
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Originally Posted by mitchntx
Remove the hub assy as well and use something to back the hub face when you pound out the studs.
Please don't tell me you guys are pounding against the wheel bearings ...
Please don't tell me you guys are pounding against the wheel bearings ...
please dont tell me you expect damage to the wheel bearings from a force much less then the car hitting a pothole at 30mph......
#9
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Originally Posted by MrDude_1
please dont tell me you expect damage to the wheel bearings from a force much less then the car hitting a pothole at 30mph......
Please don't tell me you don't understand the differences between radial and axial loading on this type of bearing.
#10
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Originally Posted by mitchntx
Sliding sideways?
Please don't tell me you don't understand the differences between radial and axial loading on this type of bearing.
Please don't tell me you don't understand the differences between radial and axial loading on this type of bearing.
try turning.
yes i realize the diff.
however the amount of force is still much less then the threshold the bearing can sustain without damage...
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to get them back on, it was much easier for me to put the old stud in, then put an old open lug nut on it, and impact the lug nut on until it pulled it through. Just a thought for the re-install.
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Remove the hub assy as well and use something to back the hub face when you pound out the studs
to get them back on, it was much easier for me to put the old stud in, then put an old open lug nut on it, and impact the lug nut on until it pulled it through. Just a thought for the re-install.
#13
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Yeah I was just about to say that. Taking off the hub assembly is a real bitch. And my car only had 25K miles. Definately soak it in some rust penetrante before attempting removal. Then it's still a bitch.
Once they are off. Lightly sand the inside spindle hole and reassemble with anti sieze.
Once they are off. Lightly sand the inside spindle hole and reassemble with anti sieze.
#14
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Originally Posted by MrDude_1
try turning.
yes i realize the diff.
however the amount of force is still much less then the threshold the bearing can sustain without damage...
yes i realize the diff.
however the amount of force is still much less then the threshold the bearing can sustain without damage...
These hub assemblies are pressed together and use a crimp to hold them in place. Side loading presses against the crimp. It's a grossly poor design.
In Texas, the assemblies just come right out ...
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Also might want to consider heating the area (on the hub assembly) around the stud with a propane torch. This will expand the hub assembly ever so slightly and might enable you to drive them out. Might take a few minutes, but I've done it before and it works alright...
Last edited by marv; 03-31-2006 at 08:39 AM.
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Originally Posted by 67Ranger
to get them back on, it was much easier for me to put the old stud in, then put an old open lug nut on it, and impact the lug nut on until it pulled it through. Just a thought for the re-install.
Not all the time. When I put my 7.5 arp wheel studs in, The impact did not work well, (over 1,500 lbs of torque). I finally took the spindles off and had them pressed in.