trimming bump stops
btw, i know it sounds obvious, but dont breath in the burning rubber, and wear long sleeves... i usually grind metal with shortsleeves without a problem, but the rubber likes to smolder a bit so it hurts more when it hits your arms.. lol.
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you have to trim the sides of them to clear big tires for drag racing. you dont cut them off or remove them, but you just shave a little off the metal edge that hangs off the side, so it doesnt rub the sidewall of your dragslicks.
i wouldnt recommend anyone remove them completely.
I'm not fighting that fight, though. I trimmed the mounting bracket back a little for clearancing the rims, but the bumpstops themselves are still very much intact.
-Mike
I'm not fighting that fight, though. I trimmed the mounting bracket back a little for clearancing the rims, but the bumpstops themselves are still very much intact.
-Mike
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-Mike
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I even had one moron try forcing the wheels to turn the first time this happened and the car was up on the rack - nice gouges on the inner lip of both wheels
Would never remove them - they're for a purpose...
And yes, I just used a Angle Grinder with a standard metal grinding disc.
-Jay-
-Mike
same here.
besides, if you actually look at teh wheel well, its obvious that they protrude inward more then needed and hit big rubber... just grind down the side a bit, and it all fits. bumpstop stays intact.. its just thinner on that side.
How much better '60 times can I expect with SFC, adj. LCA's, adj. PHB, and 325/50R/15 Nitto 555R's in the back? My best '60 was 2.0790 on street tires. If I ran a 13.4 with a 2.0790 on street tires, what can I expect with drag radials, 200 lbs. weight reduction, and better suspension?










