Why does my rear want to kick to the side when shifting gears?
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I think it came with a Torson limited slip. Whatever the 1999 automatics came with.
How can I tell if it is going out without opening it up?
How can I tell if it is going out without opening it up?
Last edited by Marc '99T/A; 04-18-2006 at 09:00 PM.
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all u gotta do is check if both wheels spin, if its going out ur gonna turn into a one wheel wonder and only one will spin, if this happens sometimes the rear will move sideways if one spins first
my 98 v6 did that
my 98 v6 did that
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Spins both tires. Even put one tire off the road in the dirt and gassed it. That tire spun, but tire on the road also still pulled pretty hard. Also did a pretty good burnout on the street and laid two stripes down.
Any other ideas why the body of the car would kick to the side?
Shocks still haven't come in yet, so I guess that's still a possibility.
Any other ideas why the body of the car would kick to the side?
Shocks still haven't come in yet, so I guess that's still a possibility.
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mine does it..i have Adj PHB and LCA's...
i think its due to a lot of torque being tranfered into the rear end/tires and the car just wants to squat, even with some nice LCA's....
i wouldnt worry about it....maybe beef up the sway bar to prevent any more roll than neccesary in the rear...
its ok though, hard shifting will do that
i think its due to a lot of torque being tranfered into the rear end/tires and the car just wants to squat, even with some nice LCA's....
i wouldnt worry about it....maybe beef up the sway bar to prevent any more roll than neccesary in the rear...
its ok though, hard shifting will do that
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But it isn't under hard shifting; I notice it with light shifts.....WTF???
I'm really looking forward to getting the Koni's in to see if any of it is the worn out crappy old stock DeCarbons.
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I'm really looking forward to getting the Koni's in to see if any of it is the worn out crappy old stock DeCarbons.
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My '96 Z-28 has done this forever! I don't drag race the car or do ANY kind of burnouts, so the posi should be OK. I'm just a high speed cruiser kind of guy, but every once in a while, I'll nail it from a slow roll, and it wants to hop a little to the side on upshifts (A4).
Mine is lowered with Eibach springs, Bilstein shocks, trailing arms (custom made tubular) relocated, and a custom length, tubular panhard bar.
Mine is lowered with Eibach springs, Bilstein shocks, trailing arms (custom made tubular) relocated, and a custom length, tubular panhard bar.
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When you say hop, are you talking about the tires breaking loose, or is it just the body that wants to kick to the side? Mine is just the body (rear). I can chirp the tires when shifting if I want, but that's not what I'm talking about.
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Originally Posted by Marc '99T/A
When you say hop, are you talking about the tires breaking loose, or is it just the body that wants to kick to the side? Mine is just the body (rear). I can chirp the tires when shifting if I want, but that's not what I'm talking about.
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That's not it; it happens on perfectly straight surfaces. Even if that was it, why is it happening? It didn't do it when I bought it, so which component wore out to start to cause it?
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I believe it's the torque / pavement force difference between
the two sides, spinning, applied to the lever arm that is your
car body and the fulcrum that is your front end planted. The
rear end's torque reaction will always unload the right rear tire.
So the right tire applies less traction / friction force at slip
than the left, things like pavement and body weight being
equal. And on jerk events like slam-shifting the right rear is
going to unload even more starkly. Two unequal forces on
two ends of the see-saw make for it to slew. I'd expect the
greater force on the left to make the car kick left in the rear
(trying to bring the left side forward, settling for sideways).
Any rear chunk that does not hard-lock the axles will be this
way (including the torque-biasing Zexel stock or race units).
Probably won't spin an open diff even if you had one. A stock
type Auburn probably won't hard-lock the axles though a Pro
should.
If both tires don't spin then you will not kick out because the
stuck tire holds orientation. The change could be as simple as
pavement temperature, changing whether the fairly low torque
bias stock Torsen spins one tire or two; the difference between
static and kinetic friction constants, whether it's more or less
than the torque bias limit of the unit as-worn-in, as modified by
diff fluid viscosity, blah blah blah.
Summary: work it, don't jerk it, fuggedaboudit.
the two sides, spinning, applied to the lever arm that is your
car body and the fulcrum that is your front end planted. The
rear end's torque reaction will always unload the right rear tire.
So the right tire applies less traction / friction force at slip
than the left, things like pavement and body weight being
equal. And on jerk events like slam-shifting the right rear is
going to unload even more starkly. Two unequal forces on
two ends of the see-saw make for it to slew. I'd expect the
greater force on the left to make the car kick left in the rear
(trying to bring the left side forward, settling for sideways).
Any rear chunk that does not hard-lock the axles will be this
way (including the torque-biasing Zexel stock or race units).
Probably won't spin an open diff even if you had one. A stock
type Auburn probably won't hard-lock the axles though a Pro
should.
If both tires don't spin then you will not kick out because the
stuck tire holds orientation. The change could be as simple as
pavement temperature, changing whether the fairly low torque
bias stock Torsen spins one tire or two; the difference between
static and kinetic friction constants, whether it's more or less
than the torque bias limit of the unit as-worn-in, as modified by
diff fluid viscosity, blah blah blah.
Summary: work it, don't jerk it, fuggedaboudit.