umi chassi mounted torq arm????
#1
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umi chassi mounted torq arm????
i have a umi chassi mounted torq arm that i havent put on because of all the stories ive heard bout the bolts backing out (moser 12bolt) its adj. but i dont kno how to adj. it
any of you running it?
what bolts did u use? i.e size, length loctite
how long did it take to install?
should i change the trany mount to poly even though i dont have the poly eng. mounts?
anything else i should do??
thanx in advance
any of you running it?
what bolts did u use? i.e size, length loctite
how long did it take to install?
should i change the trany mount to poly even though i dont have the poly eng. mounts?
anything else i should do??
thanx in advance
Last edited by mcamarols1; 05-17-2006 at 06:26 PM.
#3
I installed a chassis mounted tq arm and i originally had issues. i didn't replace the tranny mount. but did buy the bolt kit and used lock-tite on the threads (for my 10 bolt). It should be shipped to you set at 0degrees, and just bolt in. Put the suspension on a load while you do it. I originally had hard thumps while shifting into gear, but after some adjusting it got better. By the way, I installed the tq arm at -????degrees by guessing. Bad Idea!!! by an angle finder and make sure that your pinion angle is set to your liking 0to-2 degrees typically.
Overall it's a great piece, but I'm just too lazy to fine tune it. and I would recomend the umi 3pt subframes to go with it to support the chassis tq arm.
I imagine a lot of torque or hard launches would rip the floor pan to shreads without the 3pts subframes.
Overall it's a great piece, but I'm just too lazy to fine tune it. and I would recomend the umi 3pt subframes to go with it to support the chassis tq arm.
I imagine a lot of torque or hard launches would rip the floor pan to shreads without the 3pts subframes.
#4
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Hello,
Its not the torque arms fault, its Moser. Whether is a tunnel mounted torque arm, tranny mounted or stock they all attach to the rear end the same way and will encounter the same problem. The only solution is to check the bolts often or tack weld the bolts to the torque arm rear mounting bracket.
So go ahead and install the chassis mounted torque arm, you will like it
Ryan
Its not the torque arms fault, its Moser. Whether is a tunnel mounted torque arm, tranny mounted or stock they all attach to the rear end the same way and will encounter the same problem. The only solution is to check the bolts often or tack weld the bolts to the torque arm rear mounting bracket.
So go ahead and install the chassis mounted torque arm, you will like it
Ryan
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i understand that moser rears have the problem of the bolts backing out, my questions are about the bolts, do i use the ones that came with the rear or do i use longer ones,?? i noticed that stock torq arm flange is thinner than the umi peice, will the bolts thread in enough for it to be secure, i kno about the loctite method??? do you offer these bolts for the moser rear??? thanx do u sell angle finder gauges???
#6
You need to use the bolts supplied with the kit. Not to be an ***, but they wouldnt give you bolts unless they wanted you to use them. I have not installed mine yet because I am waiting on the bolts which are back ordered. Use the bolts that came with the kit. They are longer and required to get "a full nut".
I have nothing but great things to say about UMI their parts are top quality and stand behind everything they manufacture. Ryan is a great guy and full of knowledge. Give them a call if you have questions, they will get them answered right away. Hope this helps,
Jamin
I have nothing but great things to say about UMI their parts are top quality and stand behind everything they manufacture. Ryan is a great guy and full of knowledge. Give them a call if you have questions, they will get them answered right away. Hope this helps,
Jamin
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either way, you should loick tite the bolts, some people don't and they back out and get things all kinds a screwed up. I have the spohn and used red lock tite on the 4 grade 8 bolts that bolt the torque arm to the housing, then I also bought some longer bolts to use in the other two holes for some added pressure, havn't had a problem since, but make sure them are tight as could be with lock tite, and you'll be just fine
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I have a friend who had issues with the bolts backing out of his moser, locktite did not do the trick. he ended up using safety wire and it has worked flawlessly.
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Originally Posted by BACKN70
I originally had hard thumps while shifting into gear, but after some adjusting it got better.
I imagine a lot of torque or hard launches would rip the floor pan to shreads without the 3pts subframes.
I imagine a lot of torque or hard launches would rip the floor pan to shreads without the 3pts subframes.
Im also curious to see/hear of any cases where someone ripped there floorpan due to a chassis mounted t/a.
#11
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Originally Posted by SmokedOutZ28
Thats what i encountered when i installed a hpmotorsports chassis mounted t/a, Thats been my biggest fear when deciding on which one to go with is the thumping. Ryan have you heard about this before? Is this due to the pinion angle being incorrect?
Im also curious to see/hear of any cases where someone ripped there floorpan due to a chassis mounted t/a.
Im also curious to see/hear of any cases where someone ripped there floorpan due to a chassis mounted t/a.
Im curious also. Will this rip out the floor pan? http://www.umiperformance.com/2203.aspx
Also will the standard adj ta and the dsl work when used seperately?
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Originally Posted by Hell'sChariot
Im curious also. Will this rip out the floor pan? http://www.umiperformance.com/2203.aspx