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how do i adj panhard rod?

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Old 06-06-2006, 05:46 AM
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Default how do i adj panhard rod?

just got BMR adj panhard rod.. now how do i adj it properly??
Old 06-06-2006, 08:00 AM
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https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....06&postcount=6


-Mike
Old 06-06-2006, 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by chupr0kabra

So if I am rubbing my 325/50/15 tires in my fender, making it longer will help push the tires out more? I just bought a UMI single adj. PHB, and am curious. I am also curious in how to adjust my LCA's.

I know the adj. LCA's and PHB isn't magically gonna stop the rubbing, I need to pound and grind a little more.

If I make the PHB setting "longer" what should my LCA setting be? I also got subframes, are those some good suspension mods that will help my 60'?

Last edited by blind527; 06-06-2006 at 12:05 PM.
Old 06-06-2006, 12:41 PM
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Lengthening the panhard bar will push the axle further toward the driver's side, but obviously this means the passenger side will be pulled closer to the fender wells. The idea of the panhard bar is to perfectly center the rear axle in relation to the front wheels (not just the fenders, as GM's body tolerances are not to be trusted).

As for the lower control arms, the recommendation is to leave them at stock length. The beefier design will help reduce/eliminate wheel hop, which not only reduces your 60' time, but also destroys rearends. They are adjustable, but I believe that's more because they're rod-ended, and the rod-ends just happen to attach by means of threading.

I'll let someone else comment on subframe connectors, or you can search through some of Sam Strano's posts on the topic. I have them, but I added them after making a lot of other changes to the suspension, so they didn't have as dramatic an impact for me as they do for some.


-Mike
Old 06-06-2006, 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by chupr0kabra
Lengthening the panhard bar will push the axle further toward the driver's side, but obviously this means the passenger side will be pulled closer to the fender wells. The idea of the panhard bar is to perfectly center the rear axle in relation to the front wheels (not just the fenders, as GM's body tolerances are not to be trusted).

As for the lower control arms, the recommendation is to leave them at stock length. The beefier design will help reduce/eliminate wheel hop, which not only reduces your 60' time, but also destroys rearends. They are adjustable, but I believe that's more because they're rod-ended, and the rod-ends just happen to attach by means of threading.

I'll let someone else comment on subframe connectors, or you can search through some of Sam Strano's posts on the topic. I have them, but I added them after making a lot of other changes to the suspension, so they didn't have as dramatic an impact for me as they do for some.


-Mike
Got you. I will leave the LCA's with stock settings, and adjust the PHB a little bit. It's gonna be harder for me to do that as I'm running a 15x10 with a 325/50/15 tire over a stock sized tire up front.

Last edited by blind527; 06-06-2006 at 01:09 PM.
Old 06-06-2006, 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by blind527
Got you. I will leave the LCA's with stock settings, and adjust the PHB a little bit. It's gonna be harder for me to do that as I'm running a 15x10 with a 325/50/15 tire over a stock sized tire up front.
If you can find someone who will loan you their stock wheels and make a trip to a shop with an alignment rack, they can help you out. Once you get everything centered, you won't want to move the panhard bar, but will instead want to clearance the fender wells with a hammer.


-Mike
Old 06-06-2006, 05:31 PM
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can you do it for me mike??
Old 06-07-2006, 12:04 AM
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Originally Posted by chupr0kabra
If you can find someone who will loan you their stock wheels and make a trip to a shop with an alignment rack, they can help you out. Once you get everything centered, you won't want to move the panhard bar, but will instead want to clearance the fender wells with a hammer.


-Mike
I have stock wheels on my car now. How much would it be for an alignment? I would get the car aligned with the NEW panhard rod on, and just put my new wheels/tires on when they are finished? Would it make more sense to get that done with the new tires on if I can get them to not rub?

It seems like the drivers side clears better in the wheel well than the passenger side. I'll hammer a lot more tomorrow and grind, and see if it makes a difference.

When I put my PHB on, should I just leave it at the setting that it has on it already, or should I adjust it a little?

Last edited by blind527; 06-07-2006 at 01:14 AM.



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