Ericbigmac83

iTrader: (19)

Im thinking about getting LCA's from UMI but am not sure which way to go. Im leaning towards the poly/rod. This is a daily driver which will see some track use. I was hoping to get a little better traction and handling. What are your opinions for a car thats gonna get mostly street use?

Jon B.

iTrader: (5)

Get those, I have the exact same ones and they are awesome. Took next to no time to install and are very nice quality pieces. The guys at UMI are great to deal with as well.

Jon

Ericbigmac83

iTrader: (19)

Cool, Anyone else have opinions on lower control arms for a mostly street driven car?

fa63

The poly/rod combination seems to be a good compromise between NVH and performance when it comes to rear LCA applications for mostly street driven cars.

coolformula

iTrader: (21)

I thought POLY can bind. I would go rod/rod

UMI Performance

iTrader: (77)

Hello,

Yes polyurethane does and can bind when pushed to its limits. That is why we offer a compromise between the two. The rod/rod set us is excellent and works well, however many do not like this set-up since there vehicle is more street driven then anything. The poly/rod combo is the best bet for the street, the rod end helps to eliminate the rear end bind while the polyurethane bushings bolt to the chassis to help absorb any road nosies before they enter the passenger area. We usually always recommend this set-up on a street car exposed to some handling. They also offer adjustability if ever needed.

If I can help anymore please ask. Thank you!
Ryan

www.umiperformance.com/2016.aspx

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

Poly/rod is what I recommend and sell in most cases (UMI's no less). They cost more than all poly, but don't monkey with the roll stiffness and progression like all poly arms do.

bad6as

iTrader: (17)

poly/rod ftw

Foxxtron

iTrader: (1)

The overall bind that would be present in a Poly/rod combo would be ~10% more than a rod/rod combo of the same or similar design.

From my experience, the only quality I don't like about poly in a bushing of that type would be it's creep (cold-flow) properties. It can take quite a while before it's obvious, but the reason I prefer a solid rubber is due to it's higher ratio of elsatic monomers, rather than the plasitcity of the mostly amorphous polyurethane.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

I can't quantify it. But it would be worse with in a boxed or tubular arm than with poly bushings in a stock arm (which itself will flex). But the difference is pretty large based on my experience. Again, I can't put a number on it but it's noticeable and significant.

Ericbigmac83

iTrader: (19)

I like how my thread just opened all back up 3 months later, I think i am going with the UMI poly/rod LCA's....just as soon as my bank account starts going back in the positive direction, lol

shudog

iTrader: (3)

I got the same set and they are way noisier than stock. So bad i want to put the stockers back on. And before anyone even says it, they ARE tight. But they look nice and fit up perfectly with the UMI SFC's and PHB.

UMI Performance

iTrader: (77)

A few things to try. First and most important is make sure the rod end in sitting straight, or in other words not twisted to one side.. this can cause noise. Also make sure the jam nut is very tight. The last thing to try is adding a thick layer of Teflon tape to the rod end threads and screw them back into the control arm, this will tighten the threads and possibly cure the problem.

Hope that helps!
Ryan

Cybnext

iTrader: (4)

I'll try that this weekend since after my LCA and PHR install ended up with a loud noisy rear-end. My LCA rod-ends are nearly sitting straight, might be a bit off.

I think a lot of the problem is from my PHR (body side) because the bolt had a messed up thread and I think it messed with my torque reading.