Well, pretty much what the subject says. I'm getting subframes welded, but am torn between getting the KBDD or the Global West tubulars....what do you guys think? If I do a DD design I want the Kenny Browns, but I am still open on the tubular side...but I've seen the Globals and they look really nice. This car is driven pretty much street only...maybe hit a track or two sometime. What I am really looking for is less rattles...longer life for interior, and better overall handeling. My car already has the Bilstein suspension and I will eventually get the LG springs and some form of adj panhard....oh....already have a STB also. <img border="0" alt="[chug]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_chug.gif" />

 

The KBDD's worked great on my car. From the moment I had them installed almost every rattle dissappeared and the car would corner like you wouldn't beleive. I don't have any info about the GW's.

 

I've been very pleased with my GW SFC's. They definitely gave me more chassis rigidity. My SS only had about 4000 miles on it when I got the SFC's installed and I could tell the difference right when I pulled out of the shop's driveway. I don't have any experience with the KBDD's but I would be wary of double-diamonds just in case you ever consider LT headers.

 

I've got the KBDD and LOVE them, BIG difference <img border="0" alt="[hail]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_hail.gif" />

As for LT headers, yes, you'll have to take that into consideration, I'm getting FLP's and I talked to Mitch about it and he is Custom fabracating a y-pipe to fit for me, it's a little extra $$$ but I'd rather Not cut out my Sub Frames and replace them with tubular or boxed, the DD design is allot stronger and my car is much more ridged than my friends with Tubular...

 

We (Thunder Racing) only had to cut one little section of my KBDD SFC's to get my FLP's to fit with no problem. Not a big deal really...I have a pic of the modification necessary to anyone who'd like to see it...

Email me at dvdoug@hotmail.com if you want it.

 

I dont think I will get LT's, but you never know. Most likely I would get mid lengths if I did do headers. I am pretty pleased with my Bassanii Y right now though. So...what kind of ground clearance loss is there with the KBDD's?....is there any problem accesing anything under the car with them on?
With the Global's....any clearance loss or access probs? I prob leaning more toward the KB's if there is not a big access problem and if my ground clearance will be fine after lowering the car 1.5" in the future. Thanks for the help guys. <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />

 

Im lowered 1.5" and the KBDD's are not the lowest point on the car anywhere. The only thing I scrape are the ring clamps and possibly collector flanges....and of course the air dam.

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">With the Global's....any clearance loss or access probs? </font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Zero ground clearance loss and no access problems with the GW's. As a matter of fact you have to get under the car to even see them.

 

I have the KBDD and I love them no ground clearance lost I even have the car lowered 1.75 and the car handle great, with the GWs the tubes are bigger than KB and they will lose a little bit of ground clearance.

 

Thanks for all the help guys, really appreciate it <img border="0" alt="[hail]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_hail.gif" /> . I decided, and just placed the order, on the Global West subframes. I figure they should be really good and I wont have to deal with anything if I ever decide on going with LT's. Now I have to wait.....I hate that! <img border="0" alt="[chug]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_chug.gif" />

 

"chev4life"
This is off topic, but wanted to know if you still drive around with your ss license plate cover in the back ? Any problems with the local cops ?

 

Wish I could drive around with it...but have reg plates on now. The SS is now hanging in my bedroom.

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif"> with the GWs the tubes are bigger than KB and they will lose a little bit of ground clearance. </font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">This is incorrect. As I said before, there is no loss of ground clearance with the GW SFC's. They tuck right up into the space under the door sill.

 

Fulton....do you have any pics of yours on? Are they mounted inward(middle of car) or outward of the flange that contains the stock jacking points? Have you used your GW's as jacking points?...if so how standard stands hold on them....pretty solid?

 

chev4life,
Unfortunately, I don't have any pics of the GW SFC's on the car, but will try to explain as best I can. They install inboard of the factory jack points by about an inch. At the front they "cup" the back end of the front subframe, they then bend outboard slightly and run parallel and inboard of the pinch weld. Looking from the side they are totally hidden behind the pinch weld except for the very front where they have to drop down a tad to attach to the subframe. At the rear they fit up into the door sill cavity next to the rear subframe and are welded to the side of the subframe and around the cross-section of the door sill cavity. Kinda hard to explain without pics, but I haven't had the car on a lift to get any good ones.

Yes, I routinely jack the car by the subframes at front or back. It's difficult to jack them along the length of the SFC just because they are tucked up so tight. If you can get your jack pad on them you can jack it anywhere along the SFC though. They are VERY solid.

Hope that helps.

 

Zero groud clearance loss. Completely stealth. Just look under your car...to the outside of the floorpan on either side is basically a "channel" that runs from front to back. More or less from the rear of the front jacking point to the front of the lca mounting area.

They weld at those points for a VERY sturdy connection. You can use them as jacking points anywhere on the bars.

No problems with install. No need to pull up carpet, move lcas, fuel lines or anything to weld them.

Go Global! No regrets. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />