Speed Demon

iTrader: (14)

See my post over in the road racing section.
Quick review.

The instructions are so-so. No positive position locator for brackets before welding. Backside of bracket does not sit flush with OE bracket, will have to be gap welded. If installed following instructions and pictures the rear axle will have to be pushed forward to bolt up to BMR brackets. This will cause wheels to be too far forward in wheel wells.

Brackets could be swiveled forward before welding to retain stock axle location, but then the back of the bracket is no where near the back side of the OE bracket, so welding only of the sides of the bracket is possible.

http://www.bmrfabrication.com/instructions/cab001.htm

Anyone have any suggestions?

acarnut

read this: https://ls1tech.com/ubb/ultimatebb.p...;f=25;t=000922

They must be positioned so that the holes are aligned perpendicular to the ground, or the axle will be out of position. I read those instructions and don't see how they ensure that you get them on straight.

Also, once you do get them on, be sure that the LCAs are level or higher at the rear, not the other way around as per BMR.

My GW brackets fit fine.

DaveH

99WhiteSS

Sorry man, you are having the same exact problem I had about a year ago. After the weld-in BMR LCA relocation brackets the rear axle was too far forward in wheel-well. Here's what you are going to want to do:

1) DO NOT drive the car. With the rear too far forward you risk binding up the tranmission, the driveshaft has a very good chance of pushing the tranny's output shaft into the main shaft, destroying the internal bearings. Goodbye transmission!

2) Jack-up the car and cut the weld-in brackets off. Install the bolt-in relocation brackets from BMR. They are more expensive, $110 as compared to $60 but they have an extra bracket and bolt that positively locates them with respect to the bottom of shock. I would look into getting a credit toward the bolt-in brackets. The weld-in version is a piece of crap.

3) After that my problem was completely fixed. Minus the ruined transmission. In an effort to save about $50 I ended up losing about $2K for a new (used) transmission.

-Kris

DARK AGE 53

This is exactly why I recommend the bolt-on type.

Al

Speed Demon

iTrader: (14)

99WhiteSS,
Luckily I realized this problem and didn't weld them in. I bolt the car back up stock.

I may look into returning them for a credit toward BMR bolt or another brand.

I don't drag race. I only use my car for Open Track events and daily driver of course. Do I really need the relocation brackets?

99WhiteSS

If the car is lower, then yes, you need the LCA relocation brackets. If not your rear geometry will be off and you'll put an incredible angle on the driveshaft. Remember, for maximum power transfer you want all of the torque the DS provides to be delivered along the line of transmission. The crank, main shaft, and DS should all be as close to level as possible. Without the relocation brackets the angle will most likely be in the 2-4* range. I suspect you will probably risk increased wear and possible damage to the posi if you run such a large angle for too long.

-Kris

Speed Demon

iTrader: (14)

Please explain to me how relcation brackets can correct pinion angle. Not arguing, just want to figure out the answer.

I was under the car about to install the brackets and inspecting how lowering the control arms would affect other suspension geometry.

I can't see how the LCA reloc. do anything but locate the rear of the control arms lower. It appears to me that since the torque arm is solidly bolted to the diff., then the only time the pinion angle changes is if the rear end moves up or down or if you install an adjustable torque arm.

Tell me what you think or know.

I know I have heard others say the LCA reloc. brackets correct the pinion angle on lowered cars but I can't see how.

Phil99TA

I can relate to the mentioned problem. I wish I knew about this before they were installed. I had to buy adjustable LCA's so I could make it longer and push the axle back. Don't buy the weld in BMR's!!!!! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Mad]" src="gr_images/icons/mad.gif" />

acarnut

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Speed Demon:
<strong>Tell me what you think or know.

I know I have heard others say the LCA reloc. brackets correct the pinion angle on lowered cars but I can't see how.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I know that one the the biggest sources of misinformation is the BMR FAQs. They are full of errors and omissions, many of which can result in screwing up your suspension (as in this thread) or dangerous handling. But if that's all you've read, you might take it as gospel. Obviously, many do.

you are right - only the torque arm can affect pinion angle.

2001CamaroGuy

iTrader: (6)

I also vote bolt on.....thats what I used and they are working fine. They could always be welded, but mine have been on for over six months and have not had any problems.