Y does my car brake like its going over very seperated small speed bumps?
07-18-2006, 09:40 PM
#1
Y does my car brake like its going over very seperated small speed bumps? when ever i hit the brakes latelty when i get it down to like 20 mph and under it feels like part of the rotor is missing its like, go,slow,go,slow. when i keep the same amount of brake pressure. is it called "bucking"? do i haev to change rotors or pads or anything? 24,000 miles on my brakes now
07-18-2006, 09:53 PM
#2
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It sounds like warped rotors. That's what I recently had to deal with. Supposedly stock GM rotors are notorious for warping, though I don't see why.
24,000 miles seems a bit low for warped rotors though, so I could be wrong. If it is indeed the rotors, your options would be to have them turned or to buy new ones. Turning rotors would cost you between $50-100 probably, depending on where you get them done. Buying new ones would obviously be pricier.
24,000 miles seems a bit low for warped rotors though, so I could be wrong. If it is indeed the rotors, your options would be to have them turned or to buy new ones. Turning rotors would cost you between $50-100 probably, depending on where you get them done. Buying new ones would obviously be pricier.
07-18-2006, 09:57 PM
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Sounds to me like your rotors are warped. Basically you either need to have the rotors "turned" or just get new rotors. For the price difference, and factoring in that the issue will most likely occur again with the stock units, your best bet is to just get aftermarket rotors. There are plenty available, my car has high performance cross-drilled rotors for better heat dissipation, and I've been very satisfied with them.
It's not your driving style that causes them to warp, the stock brakes are one of the top complaints about F-bodys, just about all of them end up with warped rotors soon after being new.
Just go with a nice aftermarket setup, and I'm sure you will be much better off.
It's not your driving style that causes them to warp, the stock brakes are one of the top complaints about F-bodys, just about all of them end up with warped rotors soon after being new.
Just go with a nice aftermarket setup, and I'm sure you will be much better off.
07-18-2006, 10:13 PM
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Originally Posted by 2002/Black/SS
my car has extended warranty, im goign to go complain my *** off tommrow! and if thats dosent work ill get slotted rotors
07-18-2006, 10:20 PM
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Originally Posted by DONAIMIAN
And the slotted ones will wear out just as fast.
After spending a couple hundred bucks total on trying to fix the squeaking, I'm about to say the hell with it and buy some Baer drilled and slotted rotors from autozone for $250.
But you say those will warp just as easily? Why?
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07-18-2006, 11:03 PM
#8
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Originally Posted by TtamNedlog
Why do you say that? To stop my warping problem, I bought Duralast rotors from autozone and now I have a horrid squeaking problem that several brake shops haven't been able to fix.
After spending a couple hundred bucks total on trying to fix the squeaking, I'm about to say the hell with it and buy some Baer drilled and slotted rotors from autozone for $250.
But you say those will warp just as easily? Why?
After spending a couple hundred bucks total on trying to fix the squeaking, I'm about to say the hell with it and buy some Baer drilled and slotted rotors from autozone for $250.
But you say those will warp just as easily? Why?
A good set of aftermarket rotors (like Baer) should have no issues with warping at all.
07-19-2006, 09:20 AM
#9
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Originally Posted by Domestic Demon
high performance cross-drilled rotors for better heat dissipation
Here is some reading:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes/477787-need-help-explain-slotted-drilled-rotors.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes/511109-time-brakes.html
(this list could get really long, but I'll stop here.)
Originally Posted by Domestic Demon
A good set of aftermarket rotors (like Baer) should have no issues with warping at all.
Check about the above threads.
Originally Posted by TtamNedlog
I have a horrid squeaking problem that several brake shops haven't been able to fix.
07-19-2006, 04:30 PM
#11
Even if the dealer doesn't take care of it...turning them costs $10/ea if you have a Murray's Discount Auto nearby. I opted to buy the Autozone Duralast 2-year warranty rotors for $35ea though.
$20 to fix yours.
$70 to buy new ones.
Just be wary of Murray's...I've had them tell me they couldn't turn my rotors because they were warped. When I asked him why else I'd get my rotors turned, he didn't really have anything to say.. lol
$20 to fix yours.
$70 to buy new ones.
Just be wary of Murray's...I've had them tell me they couldn't turn my rotors because they were warped. When I asked him why else I'd get my rotors turned, he didn't really have anything to say.. lol
07-19-2006, 05:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Domestic Demon
my car has high performance cross-drilled rotors for better heat dissipation
i've read a lot of threads on crossdrilled/slotted rotors etc, and from what i understand is that they are crossdrilled for degassing the pads, NOT heat dissipation. i remember reading one post in one of those threads, which made a lot of sense to me at least..
imagine a pot of a gallon of water. let say it takes 10 mins to boil that pot of water. now take half a gallon of water and boil that. the half gallon will boil quicker than the gallon of water.
same should go with rotors...solid rotors have more metal so they should take longer to heat up....slotted or drilled rotors have less metal from the holes/slots so they should theoretically heat up faster.
that's what i've read and it seems to make sense to me.
good luck in any case
07-19-2006, 08:44 PM
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Okay, one word to remember about cross-drilled and/or slotted rotors for many of the vehicles in existence,
Gimmick.
Now the problem with the squealing is highly likely from:
1. The pads (either defective or made of a compound that tends to squeal)
2. backing of the pads (sometimes needs some sort of anti-squeal compound or some sort of "insulation" like what the AcDelco pads have).
3. stuck caliper slider pin(s).
AFA warping is concerned, just plan on getting some better blanks, such as Brembo blanks.
Also, when you get new rotors on, you'll need to bed them in properly otherwise the vibration from the brake pad runout will return in a matter of a few hundred miles.
Gimmick.
Now the problem with the squealing is highly likely from:
1. The pads (either defective or made of a compound that tends to squeal)
2. backing of the pads (sometimes needs some sort of anti-squeal compound or some sort of "insulation" like what the AcDelco pads have).
3. stuck caliper slider pin(s).
AFA warping is concerned, just plan on getting some better blanks, such as Brembo blanks.
Also, when you get new rotors on, you'll need to bed them in properly otherwise the vibration from the brake pad runout will return in a matter of a few hundred miles.
