Nautilus

iTrader: (15)

I was wondering what you would recommend bolt on subframe connectors or weld and what would be the advantages of either type.
Thanks.

I have a 2001 M6 WS-6 w/ SLP lid, K+N filter, slp bellows, slp maf, slp man fan switch, 160 t-stat and loud mouth exhaust.

DARK AGE 53

I think the best choice is either the SLP or www.spectaclesolutions.com bolt-on SFC, many think the weld-on type is the way to go but I'll stick by the bolt-on's.

Al

BillS

iTrader: (13)

Subframe will only work their best if they are welded in place. Even the best bolted joint will flex no matter how tight the bolts. It only takes a tiny bit of flex at the SFC to show up as a large flex at the suspension mounting point. Bolted SFC do have some effect, but wouldn't you want the best result for the added weight the SFC's add to the car.

Farmer2

iTrader: (168)

I agree with "Bills" weld em in.
If you think about it, the front and back sub frames are welded in not bolted for a reason! That same reason in welding the SFC's in, goes to stand also.
My 98 TA was in a front end collision and the WELD in SFC's saved the cabin area and kept it all square to the point it did not put it over the top in totaling it out.

If you dont know how to weld its worth the extra $$ to have them welded in.

Dave

Gold Phoenix

iTrader: (1)

I have bolt-ons from SLP. I put marks to see if the move around. So far nothing. I like them since they add more area for jacking. I didn't want to weld on the car just yet.

trackbird

iTrader: (4)

With 2500 miles on my 2002 Z-28, I roke out the welder and added my SLP subframe conectors....best thing I ever did. Since I did it early, the car has remained virtually squeak and rattle free. Bolt on's work pretty well, but they work best when welded. Good luck.

Bad Blu Formula

iTrader: (3)

I would go weld in any day. It doesn't matter how tight you get those bolts, they will eventually come loose and you'll flex. So if you just weld it in you will never have to worry about it ever again.

DARK AGE 53

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by stang killer:
<strong>Plus thoes bolts will eventually break, bcause every time you take a hard turn or launch thoes bolts are whats taking the load. With the welds its more of the the welds and the subframes taking them together.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Hhhmmmmmm......let's see. Your front suspension is bolted together as well as the rear suspension, I guess we should start welding those parts also. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Roll Eyes]" src="images/icons/rolleyes.gif" /> As for the bolts coming loose I'd like to see that happen when using red Lok-Tite on them. Just my two cents worth.

Scott(Billy Bob)

[/QUOTE]Hhhmmmmmm......let's see. Your front suspension is bolted together as well as the rear suspension, I guess we should start welding those parts also. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Roll Eyes]" src="images/icons/rolleyes.gif" /> As for the bolts coming loose I'd like to see that happen when using red Lok-Tite on them. Just my two cents worth.[/QB][/QUOTE] <img border="0" alt="[bullshit]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_bs.gif" />
ok just to put that into perspective: The MOVING PARTS of the front and rearends are bolted-in! Not the parts that you dont wanna move like those a-arm mounts,k member,trailing arm mounts,trailing arm gussets,etc. And I believe when you put a set of subframe connectors in you dont want them to move right?
Ok and lets say you do bolt-in, what if the holes are too big, even by a MM? Then what? You get movement thats what. And once you get a little movemant, it will widen out the hole that little bit more which will allow for guess what? More movement! Sorry to get cocky , but I had to respond!
<img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> <img border="0" alt="[devil]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_devil.gif" />

horist

From what I've seen weld in is the best way to go... really why bother w/boltin? It doesn't cost much to have them welded in, and boltins are more expensive.

DONAIMIAN

iTrader: (18)

Plus thoes bolts will eventually break, bcause every time you take a hard turn or launch thoes bolts are whats taking the load. With the welds its more of the the welds and the subframes taking them together.

2001CamaroGuy

iTrader: (6)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by DARK AGE 53:
<strong>I think the best choice is either the SLP or www.spectaclesolutions.com bolt-on SFC, many think the weld-on type is the way to go but I'll stick by the bolt-on's.

Al</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I agree...I have these and love them. If you REALLY want to weld them, you can bolt these on (get them into place) and then weld them but I have checked the bolts several times in the past year the subframes have been on and they have always been tight.

numbZ

WELD!The bolt on guys keep saying their bolts stay tight.Thats not the issue.Even with tight bolts there is still going to be more flex than a welded joint.The bolt holes are taking all of the load.Good welds will more evenly disperse the load,therefore less body flex,roll,rattle,etc.A good point was made earlier about the subframes(F&R)being welded from the factory.This gives far more structural integrity than if they were bolted in.Think about it!By welding in SFCs,this completes the subframe to one solid unit.