front shocks
Re: front shocks I removed the front wheels, rotors, calipers and the 4 bolts in the top of the mount (and removed the sway bar end links) and just put a small amount of weight on the wheels studs (the suspension dropped down and the shock and upper control arm just swung right out of the fender (no spring compressor was required for my car to get them out). you will need a compressor (spring compressor) to compress the springs to remove the top mounting bolt on the shock and to install it on the new shocks. I just bolted the bottom of the shock down and a good firm shove put it back in the upper holes and I reinstalled and tightened everything. Or...try www.installuniversity.com....good luck.
Teching In
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
From: Chandler, AZ
Re: front shocks I didn't remove the calipers or rotors when I did mine. Just make sure you support the wheel assembly or you could ruin your brake hose--I just put the assembly on an upside down 5 gallon bucket.
The spring compressor I used was pretty tough to use--I used a wrench with an 18" arm and put all my weight on it to turn that sucker! Obviously, YMMV depending upon model.
Technically speaking, the job was pretty simple, however a little frustrating at times. After having used much of my own energy using the spring compressor, I wasn't in a good mood to be patient with the rest of the stuff <img border="0" title="" alt="[Mad]" src="gr_images/icons/mad.gif" /> I suppose air tools would have really helped here, however.
The only potential trouble spots are separating the ball joints from the control arms, dropping the upper control arms (one of mine was frozen & the bushing puts it in a difficult position for lowering down off of the bolts), and I ended up having to use a sawzall to cut the old shock piston as the upper nut was rusted solid (after the spring was compressed of course).
Do be very careful when the spring is compressed--there is a tremendous amount of energy in those things--it looked like it would go through a wall if it let go.
Bottom line: I would do this job again myself, but I may try to find a different spring compressor.
<small>[ February 15, 2003, 12:17 PM: Message edited by: RobK ]</small>
The spring compressor I used was pretty tough to use--I used a wrench with an 18" arm and put all my weight on it to turn that sucker! Obviously, YMMV depending upon model.
Technically speaking, the job was pretty simple, however a little frustrating at times. After having used much of my own energy using the spring compressor, I wasn't in a good mood to be patient with the rest of the stuff <img border="0" title="" alt="[Mad]" src="gr_images/icons/mad.gif" /> I suppose air tools would have really helped here, however.
The only potential trouble spots are separating the ball joints from the control arms, dropping the upper control arms (one of mine was frozen & the bushing puts it in a difficult position for lowering down off of the bolts), and I ended up having to use a sawzall to cut the old shock piston as the upper nut was rusted solid (after the spring was compressed of course).
Do be very careful when the spring is compressed--there is a tremendous amount of energy in those things--it looked like it would go through a wall if it let go.
Bottom line: I would do this job again myself, but I may try to find a different spring compressor.
<small>[ February 15, 2003, 12:17 PM: Message edited by: RobK ]</small>
Re: front shocks Peterock98,
I didn't pull the ball joints. I seem to be the only one that did it this way (I'm not sure if that is good or bad). I simply removed the sway bar end links, rotors, calipers and the top bolts in the strut tower (you know where I mean...don't get picky about the name....) area and "stood" on the hub, the upper control arm, shock, spring and all just dropped down and swung out from under the fender, I didn't use a spring compressor until I was actually taking the springs off the shocks, it all dropped right out and cleared the fender(is that the worlds longest run-on sentence?). Then, I unbolted the lower shock bolts and removed the assembly (the upper control arm will swing out with the shock, just lift it up off of the studs in the top of the shock mount and turn it (gently) 90 degrees to get it out of the way. Took me 2.5 hrs to figure out how to do the first one, and 30 minutes to do the second one...go figure. If you need more info, shoot me an e-mail....I'll help you if I can. Good luck.
Kevin
I didn't pull the ball joints. I seem to be the only one that did it this way (I'm not sure if that is good or bad). I simply removed the sway bar end links, rotors, calipers and the top bolts in the strut tower (you know where I mean...don't get picky about the name....) area and "stood" on the hub, the upper control arm, shock, spring and all just dropped down and swung out from under the fender, I didn't use a spring compressor until I was actually taking the springs off the shocks, it all dropped right out and cleared the fender(is that the worlds longest run-on sentence?). Then, I unbolted the lower shock bolts and removed the assembly (the upper control arm will swing out with the shock, just lift it up off of the studs in the top of the shock mount and turn it (gently) 90 degrees to get it out of the way. Took me 2.5 hrs to figure out how to do the first one, and 30 minutes to do the second one...go figure. If you need more info, shoot me an e-mail....I'll help you if I can. Good luck.
Kevin
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Just did this job last last weekend and it kicked my ***. After I did the driver side the passenger side went alot smoother, just a little frustrating at times when putting the whole coilover back in. Definatley will be alot smoother with another hand
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Launching!
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 207
Likes: 1
From: Augusta, GA
I just did my front struts/springs and rear shocks/springs myself over the weekend. the Fronts can be a PITA! imo its best to have an extra set of hands to help pry on the lower A-Frame.
I unbolted the ball joint. To me it was easier to slide the strut back in place, back into the fender well. Took about a whole hour to an hour and half to do the rear and like 3-4 hours to do the front.
Definately worth every bit of the time spent.
I unbolted the ball joint. To me it was easier to slide the strut back in place, back into the fender well. Took about a whole hour to an hour and half to do the rear and like 3-4 hours to do the front.
Definately worth every bit of the time spent.