Why won't my piston go back in the caliper?
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GAY!
I hope I didn't mess up my caliper, but there is absolutely no compressing that piston to where it'll fit around the new pads...has anyone run into this before?
I hope I didn't mess up my caliper, but there is absolutely no compressing that piston to where it'll fit around the new pads...has anyone run into this before?
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Not to sound TOTALLY stupid here, but if it's a front caliper, you don't by any chance have a line lock do ya? Or if its the rear, do you have the e-brake on? I can't remember exactly how the e-brake works, but it might prevent the caliper from pushing in... Only things I could think of... I've never had a problem re-compressing the pistons... <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" />
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It's perfectly okay to sound stupid, knowing me, it very likely is something stupid...
It is a rear caliper, and when I first tried to compress it, the E-brake was on, but we released it and it still won't budge...
Thanks.
It is a rear caliper, and when I first tried to compress it, the E-brake was on, but we released it and it still won't budge...
Thanks.
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Okay...problem HOPEFULLY fixed...
Following Mitch's instructions on installuniversity.com, I did not attempt to compress the piston back into the caliper until after the caliper was already off. What apparently happened was when I first tried to compress it, it didn't go in straight. Then after trying and trying and trying, it wouldn't compress because it was all cockeyed and such. So, we ended up taking the piston out, and re-installing it...
I know you're supposed to replace the caliper once the piston is out, but I gotta chance it for now cuz I ain't got the money.
From now on, I'll compress the piston all the way BEFORE the caliper comes off the rotor. We bled the brakes, changed the pads, replaced one of my two cracked rotors, went for a drive, and everything was A-OK.
<img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />
Following Mitch's instructions on installuniversity.com, I did not attempt to compress the piston back into the caliper until after the caliper was already off. What apparently happened was when I first tried to compress it, it didn't go in straight. Then after trying and trying and trying, it wouldn't compress because it was all cockeyed and such. So, we ended up taking the piston out, and re-installing it...
I know you're supposed to replace the caliper once the piston is out, but I gotta chance it for now cuz I ain't got the money.
From now on, I'll compress the piston all the way BEFORE the caliper comes off the rotor. We bled the brakes, changed the pads, replaced one of my two cracked rotors, went for a drive, and everything was A-OK.
<img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />
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</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by RAGEman:
<strong> I know you're supposed to replace the caliper once the piston is out, but I gotta chance it for now cuz I ain't got the money.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">You don't have to "replace" the caliper, you just need to check (and probubly) replace the seals. The caliper is just a housing. Its the seals around the pistons that could be damaged while doing work on them.
Chris
<strong> I know you're supposed to replace the caliper once the piston is out, but I gotta chance it for now cuz I ain't got the money.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">You don't have to "replace" the caliper, you just need to check (and probubly) replace the seals. The caliper is just a housing. Its the seals around the pistons that could be damaged while doing work on them.
Chris
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</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by 2001CamaroGuy:
<strong> </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by RAGEman:
<strong> I know you're supposed to replace the caliper once the piston is out, but I gotta chance it for now cuz I ain't got the money.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">You don't have to "replace" the caliper, you just need to check (and probubly) replace the seals. The caliper is just a housing. Its the seals around the pistons that could be damaged while doing work on them.
Chris </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Well, the cheif of my mechanical staff (who is ASE-certified and has several years experience working at a GM dealership) said that GM says to replace the caliper. I was unaware that GM sold the individual parts of the caliper separately.
<strong> </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by RAGEman:
<strong> I know you're supposed to replace the caliper once the piston is out, but I gotta chance it for now cuz I ain't got the money.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">You don't have to "replace" the caliper, you just need to check (and probubly) replace the seals. The caliper is just a housing. Its the seals around the pistons that could be damaged while doing work on them.
Chris </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Well, the cheif of my mechanical staff (who is ASE-certified and has several years experience working at a GM dealership) said that GM says to replace the caliper. I was unaware that GM sold the individual parts of the caliper separately.
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You did unscrew the bleeder valve so that you bleed out some of the old fluid and thus have no pressure in the system when you compress the piston back in right? If you dont crack the valve you won't be able to push it back in I don't think... <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" />
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RAGE, I'm confused ...
You said you used my caliper rebuild document to affect the repair, but you were also unaware that the caliper could be rebuilt?
And your ASE certified mechanic sounds like a well trained parts replacer. It is definitely quicker to replace the caliper. And probably more cost effective, when applying a $75/hour shop rate to the labor involved in rebuilding the calipers.
At $75/hour and parts/supplies, you could easily tally up over $200 for a pair of calipers.
But my labor is cheap ... for me to use. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> And I suspect your labor rate for you is about the same ...
If you push the piston into the caliper, the fluid will travel back into the system.
There has been some discussion about opening the bleeder screw when pushing the piston in, in order to not push bunrt fluid back into the system. But it's not a pressure thing ...
You said you used my caliper rebuild document to affect the repair, but you were also unaware that the caliper could be rebuilt?
And your ASE certified mechanic sounds like a well trained parts replacer. It is definitely quicker to replace the caliper. And probably more cost effective, when applying a $75/hour shop rate to the labor involved in rebuilding the calipers.
At $75/hour and parts/supplies, you could easily tally up over $200 for a pair of calipers.
But my labor is cheap ... for me to use. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> And I suspect your labor rate for you is about the same ...
If you push the piston into the caliper, the fluid will travel back into the system.
There has been some discussion about opening the bleeder screw when pushing the piston in, in order to not push bunrt fluid back into the system. But it's not a pressure thing ...
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I just used the "C-clamp" method on all 4 corners of my Camaro....and I have the $120 tool that turns and compresses rear calipers (I needed it on my GTI and several others). I found the tool wasn't necessary on the new cars. And I hvae never opened a bleeder to retract a piston, I bleed the brakes after I do the pads. Make sure you didn't "score" the caliper housing with the piston when it was being compressed (while cockeyed in the bore). If it doesen't leak, it should be fine. Glad you got it working....
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</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by mitchntx:
<strong> RAGE, I'm confused ...
You said you used my caliper rebuild document to affect the repair, but you were also unaware that the caliper could be rebuilt?
And your ASE certified mechanic sounds like a well trained parts replacer. It is definitely quicker to replace the caliper. And probably more cost effective, when applying a $75/hour shop rate to the labor involved in rebuilding the calipers.
At $75/hour and parts/supplies, you could easily tally up over $200 for a pair of calipers.
But my labor is cheap ... for me to use. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> And I suspect your labor rate for you is about the same ...
If you push the piston into the caliper, the fluid will travel back into the system.
There has been some discussion about opening the bleeder screw when pushing the piston in, in order to not push bunrt fluid back into the system. But it's not a pressure thing ... </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Mitch, I'm not exactly sure what you're confused about.
I used your brake pad/rotor swap document to do my rear brakes; I didn't even know you had a caliper rebuild document. My mechanical chief-of-staff obviously knew how to rebuild my caliper because he did it and it works just fine and dandy so far. I just said that I didn't think the individual caliper parts were available from GM. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
Hopefully this clears things up. I never meant to sound like your documentation wasn't helpful, because it surely was. It was just my mistake of compressing the piston in crooked that caused the problem.
<strong> RAGE, I'm confused ...
You said you used my caliper rebuild document to affect the repair, but you were also unaware that the caliper could be rebuilt?
And your ASE certified mechanic sounds like a well trained parts replacer. It is definitely quicker to replace the caliper. And probably more cost effective, when applying a $75/hour shop rate to the labor involved in rebuilding the calipers.
At $75/hour and parts/supplies, you could easily tally up over $200 for a pair of calipers.
But my labor is cheap ... for me to use. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> And I suspect your labor rate for you is about the same ...
If you push the piston into the caliper, the fluid will travel back into the system.
There has been some discussion about opening the bleeder screw when pushing the piston in, in order to not push bunrt fluid back into the system. But it's not a pressure thing ... </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Mitch, I'm not exactly sure what you're confused about.
I used your brake pad/rotor swap document to do my rear brakes; I didn't even know you had a caliper rebuild document. My mechanical chief-of-staff obviously knew how to rebuild my caliper because he did it and it works just fine and dandy so far. I just said that I didn't think the individual caliper parts were available from GM. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
Hopefully this clears things up. I never meant to sound like your documentation wasn't helpful, because it surely was. It was just my mistake of compressing the piston in crooked that caused the problem.
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</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by trackbird:
<strong>Glad you got it working.... </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Ditto ...
<strong>Glad you got it working.... </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Ditto ...
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Here is how to do it on the car.
You have to get that round key that fits into the rear caliper piston groove. Then put the caliper retractor tool over it. You tighten the caliper retractor tool on the round piston key and give the piston key a couple turns in with large slip joint pliers, then tighten the caliper retracting tool again. Then another few turns with the pliers. You rear caliper piston will gradually retract.
Leo
You have to get that round key that fits into the rear caliper piston groove. Then put the caliper retractor tool over it. You tighten the caliper retractor tool on the round piston key and give the piston key a couple turns in with large slip joint pliers, then tighten the caliper retracting tool again. Then another few turns with the pliers. You rear caliper piston will gradually retract.
Leo
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Only good piece of info i heard was, Open the bleeder valve, you cant fight pressure, its like holding your thumb over a waterhose, you cant stop the water from comeout, if you open the bleeder valve it releases all the pressure and the piston will easily slide back. No need to do all the work you did.
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It only takes a couple minutes to retract the piston the way I described. You can even use your 3/8 ratchet with the retractor tool screwed against the top of it for even faster retracting.
Leo
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</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Jason98z:
<strong> Only good piece of info i heard was, Open the bleeder valve, you cant fight pressure, its like holding your thumb over a waterhose, you cant stop the water from comeout, if you open the bleeder valve it releases all the pressure and the piston will easily slide back. No need to do all the work you did. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">There should be no hydraulic pressure when pushing the caliper back into the system. The reservoir has a vented cap on it.
<strong> Only good piece of info i heard was, Open the bleeder valve, you cant fight pressure, its like holding your thumb over a waterhose, you cant stop the water from comeout, if you open the bleeder valve it releases all the pressure and the piston will easily slide back. No need to do all the work you did. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">There should be no hydraulic pressure when pushing the caliper back into the system. The reservoir has a vented cap on it.
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...and if the reservoir cap is NOT vented, remove the cap to release any back pressure created by compressing the piston. The level of brake fluid in the reservoir will rise and possibly overflow as you compress the piston, so keep an eye on it. No need to loosen bleed screws.