torque arm help
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Fairfax, Virginia
torque arm help I installed a UMI Tunnel Brace Mounted Torque Arm today, with the help of Articz28, and getting some problems. The drive shaft is -1degrees and the torque arm is -1degrees. I know this isn't right, I just didn't have a 1inch wrench to adjust the torque arm. Its a little more rough when switching from reverse to drive now. And if I drive at ~3K and give it some gas, the drive shaft will slam hard; and if it downshifts hard.
-So will this all go away when I correct the pinion angle?
-I feel a small bit of vibration now, is that normal?
-So will this all go away when I correct the pinion angle?
-I feel a small bit of vibration now, is that normal?
Your pinion angle sounds fine, if those readings are correct that means you would have -2 degrees of drivelin angle.
Please call us tomorrow between 8am and 11am and ask for Jerry. He will be glad to discuss your issues and get you fixed up. It just sounds like a mismatch of alignment and bolts needing torqued. Please give us a call and we will help, its to much to e-mail. If you can't call tomorrow we will be back in on Monday from 8am - 430pm
Hope that helps!
Ryan
Please call us tomorrow between 8am and 11am and ask for Jerry. He will be glad to discuss your issues and get you fixed up. It just sounds like a mismatch of alignment and bolts needing torqued. Please give us a call and we will help, its to much to e-mail. If you can't call tomorrow we will be back in on Monday from 8am - 430pm
Hope that helps!
Ryan
We torqued everything down to spec but it obviously should be done again after a bit of driving. Is the -2 degrees proper for a 90% street driven vehicle? I was thinking maybe -1 or 0.
Also, is the increased vibration normal due to the fact the clamshell and rubber bushing are no longer used?
Also, is the increased vibration normal due to the fact the clamshell and rubber bushing are no longer used?
I have a Spohn chassis mounted TQ arm and after the install the car felt alot more solid. i did not notice any increased vibrations or banging noises that quite a few people complain of. I installed it myself after i snapped my stocker. One issue i did come across was i didnt tighten the sdjustment nut enough at first and i backed off changing the adjustment, however i still didnt notice it by driving it. I only found it when i changed the rear springs and 1 shock. All i can say is check all the bolts again and go from there.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,687
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From: Fairfax, Virginia
I got it up in the air today and checked the bolts. The top bolt (one already on the TA) was a tad loose. Tightened that and test drove it. Didn't fix anything. It feels like I'm going to break the rear end. Everytime it downsifts to 2nd or 1st especially, it will make a loud noise and I can feel it. And still if I drive above 2K rpm and give it gas, it will slam. I'm still waiting for the hardware kit, but I doubt that will make this problem go away. My only thought would be the pivot plates where one of the was rubbing (bottom of plate) on the crossmember. We rubbed off the paint to give it some room, but I might need to grind it down. Other than that, I'm clueless.
Originally Posted by Ralls
I got it up in the air today and checked the bolts. The top bolt (one already on the TA) was a tad loose. Tightened that and test drove it. Didn't fix anything. It feels like I'm going to break the rear end. Everytime it downsifts to 2nd or 1st especially, it will make a loud noise and I can feel it. And still if I drive above 2K rpm and give it gas, it will slam. I'm still waiting for the hardware kit, but I doubt that will make this problem go away. My only thought would be the pivot plates where one of the was rubbing (bottom of plate) on the crossmember. We rubbed off the paint to give it some room, but I might need to grind it down. Other than that, I'm clueless.
Thanks,
Ryan
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Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,687
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From: Fairfax, Virginia
Originally Posted by UMI Performance
I run this same torque arm on my daily driver every day... 80 mile round trip every single day with no issues like you are explaining. These arms are capable of that when set up correctly. Please call us and talk with Jerry like mentioned before, if you don't contact us to help there is nothing we can do.
Thanks,
Ryan
Thanks,
Ryan
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Verdad Gallardo Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Fairfax, Virginia
Originally Posted by ArcticZ28
Yea, not to mention the upgraded bolt kit wasn't included so we're working with the stock bolts at the moment.
I think we have +2 pinion angle. The pointer was on the right side of the angle finder. Are you sure it's negative?
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Fairfax, Virginia
I just talked with Jerry from UMI and he wanted me to go over each bolt and check them again. Also make sure the TA was parallel with driveshaft. I'll probably get a level just to be positive it is. Hopefully that will fix it.
And too add to the confusion, I'm going to buy SFC's and a PHB
And too add to the confusion, I'm going to buy SFC's and a PHB
Jerry just informed me he talked to you and thinks you can get it all squared away now and working nicely. Those arms are tricky but once set-up right they work excellent. If you have any more questions don't hesitate to call.
Thanks again!
Thanks again!
The torque arm can't get any more parallel with the driveshaft unless we use the innermost set of bolts where it attaches to the pumpkin in the rear. However, that can't be done due to the pivot bolts protruding and causing the driveshaft U-joint to hit them.
Originally Posted by ArcticZ28
The torque arm can't get any more parallel with the driveshaft unless we use the innermost set of bolts where it attaches to the pumpkin in the rear. However, that can't be done due to the pivot bolts protruding and causing the driveshaft U-joint to hit them.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Fairfax, Virginia
Yo Artic, I should get the hardware this week. I took of saturday since i'm actually starting to do things now (dyno day/summit point/this). So I plan on doing this then. I'll let you know more when I actually get it.
Originally Posted by UMI Performance
Well what happens is, the front mount that bolts to the chassis has slots in it, you can move it side to side about 3/8" or so. This is where we mean it needs to be parallel, not to make the changes at the rear end. For example, if you bolted the front mount up and push it over the drivers side and max the slots out the torque arm will sit further away from the drive shaft at the front of the car then the rear. Does that make sense?
Ralls, keep me updated.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Fairfax, Virginia
Ok, finally got to working on my car this weekend, and just finished a few hours ago. I installed the new hardware kit for the torque arm. Put on my new PHB and 3-point SFC's. It's not as bad as before, but the driveshaft still makes slamming noises. It will slam if it downshifts to 1st (stopping) and when it upshifts (when I let off throttle completely to let it shift). My pinion angle changed with the SFC's. Drive shaft was +1, so I made the TA -3. That right?
And before working on it this weekend. I got under the car and had my friend change gears (R-N-D) car running. I was trying to see what was making all the noises when it switches gears. I didn't see any movement of the torque arm that would be causeing it. But the driveshaft or transmission was making them. I don't know what the torque arm did to cause this, but I doubt the trans is loose or something?
And before working on it this weekend. I got under the car and had my friend change gears (R-N-D) car running. I was trying to see what was making all the noises when it switches gears. I didn't see any movement of the torque arm that would be causeing it. But the driveshaft or transmission was making them. I don't know what the torque arm did to cause this, but I doubt the trans is loose or something?