Tubular K member question
10-31-2006, 11:45 AM
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Tubular K member question I have a tubular K member in my car. And I took it to good year to get an alignment done. They charged me and all and only really fixed the rears. They told me they cant really align the front because of the tubular k member. I was wondering is this bull **** or has anyone came across this problem. Any advice would help,
thanx
thanx
10-31-2006, 12:02 PM
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it's bull ****, a tubular k-member is just a tubular version of your stock one, nothing that would disallow the allignment of the front is there to my knowledge. if i were you'd i'd definately be thinkin 
10-31-2006, 12:15 PM
#4
I love Goodyear tires, and hate their service centers. THey'd always try and talk me into the lifetime alignement contract. so I finally bite and take it, and they "never seem to have paper" after doing an alingment to give me results.
I also took my car there for an alignment after upgrading to LS1 brakes up front (changed out the spindle, and rebuilt calipers, new pads) and the guy calls me to tell me that it would cost $400 and change! I asked him why, as alignments at the time were only $39. He said that I needed new brakes pads and rotors. I told him that they were brand new. he said "hold on" and went to go talk to the tech. He came back saying that the tech said that the pads were completely gone and it could be due to a stuck caliper, that it may need to be replaced too, and was not part of the $400. I told him that I had rebuilt the calipers myself and that everything in the brake area was fine. I also told him that I have been working on cars for 15+years and knew what I was talking about. HE then responded with "well my master technician is ASE certified...blah blah blah" I told him to just do an alignment.
I also took my car there for an alignment after upgrading to LS1 brakes up front (changed out the spindle, and rebuilt calipers, new pads) and the guy calls me to tell me that it would cost $400 and change! I asked him why, as alignments at the time were only $39. He said that I needed new brakes pads and rotors. I told him that they were brand new. he said "hold on" and went to go talk to the tech. He came back saying that the tech said that the pads were completely gone and it could be due to a stuck caliper, that it may need to be replaced too, and was not part of the $400. I told him that I had rebuilt the calipers myself and that everything in the brake area was fine. I also told him that I have been working on cars for 15+years and knew what I was talking about. HE then responded with "well my master technician is ASE certified...blah blah blah" I told him to just do an alignment.
10-31-2006, 12:16 PM
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"They can't" != "nobody can". Mine aligned up just
fine, in fact the aftermarket K offered slightly more
room to adjust things. Tell the manager he's got a
vaginal problem and that you're going looking for a
real shop.
I got mine done, installation & fancy computer laser
whatchamacall align at the dealership (back when
they still had an on-premises speed shop, and did
that kind of mod work). The align though was in the
regular service area.
fine, in fact the aftermarket K offered slightly more
room to adjust things. Tell the manager he's got a
vaginal problem and that you're going looking for a
real shop.
I got mine done, installation & fancy computer laser
whatchamacall align at the dealership (back when
they still had an on-premises speed shop, and did
that kind of mod work). The align though was in the
regular service area.
10-31-2006, 12:34 PM
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my 2 cents,
1. If it's some sort of "specialised" mounting/adjustment configuration that was designed into it (doubt it would be since it's an AJE) and the owner didn't know how to recommend the technician to adjust, I could see why.
2. If it's a "specialised" design that the owner can confidently recommend to properly adjust, maybe I'd give them 1/2 of an excuse, however,
3. It should be a K-member with slots that allow stock lower a-arms, thus allowing stock style adjustment, and therefore the only excuse that the shop could pull would be that they don't have that nice adjustment tool that makes things precise and quick, and that's really no excuse at all (because a good "pry tool" will work, just is more difficult and time consuming).
Another aspect that I have encountered would be that they tried to adjust within the specification (factory or custom) and that there would be no more room to adjust, but again, that's not a reason not to attempt.
In summary, best to forget about doing any business with them and start searching for a bonafide shop.
1. If it's some sort of "specialised" mounting/adjustment configuration that was designed into it (doubt it would be since it's an AJE) and the owner didn't know how to recommend the technician to adjust, I could see why.
2. If it's a "specialised" design that the owner can confidently recommend to properly adjust, maybe I'd give them 1/2 of an excuse, however,
3. It should be a K-member with slots that allow stock lower a-arms, thus allowing stock style adjustment, and therefore the only excuse that the shop could pull would be that they don't have that nice adjustment tool that makes things precise and quick, and that's really no excuse at all (because a good "pry tool" will work, just is more difficult and time consuming).
Another aspect that I have encountered would be that they tried to adjust within the specification (factory or custom) and that there would be no more room to adjust, but again, that's not a reason not to attempt.
In summary, best to forget about doing any business with them and start searching for a bonafide shop.
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10-31-2006, 05:26 PM
#9
Originally Posted by Automaticfastic
I have a tubular K member in my car. And I took it to good year to get an alignment done. They charged me and all and only really fixed the rears. They told me they cant really align the front because of the tubular k member. I was wondering is this bull **** or has anyone came across this problem. Any advice would help,
thanx
thanx
How far was the front off? When I swapped mine I got lucky. I still had time left on alignment so I took it back to the shop to get it checked for free. It was right on without any adjustments. I was surprised as hell. I figured it would be way off
10-31-2006, 08:26 PM
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"Alignment" in the case of a significant aftermarket suspension upgrade should not be left to the Nationwide sign above the place of business. In this day and age of in and out, the computerized setups can't account for a aftermarket system entirely. It takes a tech that has really been paying attention to what he/she has been actually doing and not just turning the wrench on the nut the computer tells him/her to turn on. The tech has to have a total grasp of how many different types of vehicles suspensions work in order to get this kind of job done. Goto your local tracks and ask around...names, businesses, will surface...the Yellowpages or Google will probably be hit and miss as you are looking for more than a shop that can provide entry level techs that can only follow instructions and not have enough experience to really "think" for themselves.
10-31-2006, 08:43 PM
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well , they might be telling the truth.........
Which k-member do you have? And is it a race version or not?
FYI if it is a race version , an alignment can be done but it wont last long at all, maybe a couple a hundred miles ..... maybe.
Also some tubular k-member have the tendancy to walk the bolts out making alignment impossible. Check your bolt where it mounts to the lower rails and make sure they are TIGHT, on the The new k-member( depending on which one) the mounting plate could be thinner causing the rail bolt to bottom out before it gets tight, meaning the bolt goes in but does not apply enought pressure to keep the k-member in place. If this is what is happening either shim the bolt/cut it down or get smaller ones. You can usually tell if it is walking and there isnt enough pressure by looking at the bolt holes and see it they are wallowed or the paint/ powder coasting is coming off around the hole.. hope this might help
Which k-member do you have? And is it a race version or not?
FYI if it is a race version , an alignment can be done but it wont last long at all, maybe a couple a hundred miles ..... maybe.
Also some tubular k-member have the tendancy to walk the bolts out making alignment impossible. Check your bolt where it mounts to the lower rails and make sure they are TIGHT, on the The new k-member( depending on which one) the mounting plate could be thinner causing the rail bolt to bottom out before it gets tight, meaning the bolt goes in but does not apply enought pressure to keep the k-member in place. If this is what is happening either shim the bolt/cut it down or get smaller ones. You can usually tell if it is walking and there isnt enough pressure by looking at the bolt holes and see it they are wallowed or the paint/ powder coasting is coming off around the hole.. hope this might help
11-01-2006, 09:37 AM
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dammit then im taking my car back their on saturday. Went to one next to my work instead of home. And they told me in a 50 mile radias I have to go to the one who did the work. They suck at goodyear after this im never going back. Maybe ill have the mexicans work on my car jesus. (the mexicans are the ones with the yellow painted shops, well atleast here in SA)
11-01-2006, 10:04 AM
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KHShapiro,
What brands are you talking about? For the good of all you should let people know what your experience is. My personal experience with UMI's piece is nothing but total satisfaction. The initial alignment is still holding.
What brands are you talking about? For the good of all you should let people know what your experience is. My personal experience with UMI's piece is nothing but total satisfaction. The initial alignment is still holding.
11-01-2006, 12:53 PM
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the AJE has a thinner mounting plate than stock , if you still have your stock k- member compare them.. sounds like you are going to have to shim your bolts with some washers.... Took me about 6 months to figure out the k - member was shifting due to the bolts bottoming out and acting like they are tight.
Have you heard any banging noises?Usually when hard quick stopping. If you have, Pull all the bolts out one at a time on a lift while supporting the k -member or the side your are removing the bolts from and check to make sure the holes isnt to wallowed out and can still be used. You can roll it up on a ramp and check around the holes for the paint / powder coating breaking off that can be a sign of movement. Keep us posted
Have you heard any banging noises?Usually when hard quick stopping. If you have, Pull all the bolts out one at a time on a lift while supporting the k -member or the side your are removing the bolts from and check to make sure the holes isnt to wallowed out and can still be used. You can roll it up on a ramp and check around the holes for the paint / powder coating breaking off that can be a sign of movement. Keep us posted
11-01-2006, 01:29 PM
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You ******* hit it!! They told me the bad metal on metal noise I hear is my exhaust. It makes the sound on the passenger side when I hit good size bumps. So im guessing if I fix my K member I can go back and get it aligned??? and thanx for the help!!
