cure wheelhop and do better times on autocross
#1
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cure wheelhop and do better times on autocross
Ok. I have a little wheelhop and i like to auto cross.
What do i need to do?
My current sutup is:
SFC weld on
STB
Bilstein hd
eibach prokit
What do i need to do?
My current sutup is:
SFC weld on
STB
Bilstein hd
eibach prokit
#4
I was pleased to see that you no longer had stock shocks at least. but still the HD's are not valved suitably for those springs. Control arms may do it for you but you really need rod ends to not end up with bind and I personally can't stand anything stiffer than stock for LCA application in a daily driver. And even then, an aftermarket torque arm is what fixed my wheel hop. not the LCA's. (and i'm not suggesting trying the torque arm, as I am no longer using the aftermarket one) Correcting the LCA angle since you are lowered may be a good place to start
#6
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well i have been thinking of LCA but i dont know wich ones? for autcross i meen that if i change the LSA i will get worse handling? Or do the LCA improve that aswell?
I have thought about brackets to.....
Also my HD:s were a very good upgrade from stock. They feel much better and comfort is also better. The prokit is not supposed to be that much stiffer than stock springs.
I have thought about brackets to.....
Also my HD:s were a very good upgrade from stock. They feel much better and comfort is also better. The prokit is not supposed to be that much stiffer than stock springs.
#7
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Doski: I have a set of LG Motorsports single Adjustable, street-race, poly/rod end LCA's and PHR. I never turned the car into an autocross queen like I planned and ended up with 600rwhp for straightline streetracing from a roll. They are red, in perfect shape and only have maybe 5k miles on them. PM me to Let me know if you're interested and I'll shoot you a price. I paid $390+shipping for them brand new.
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#9
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Your shocks aren't really up to the task, and shocks can and do effect wheel-hop as the compression side controls unsprung weight (which your axle is).... Most folks want the rear of the car stable in transition, etc. so those into handling don't generally like the LCA's past level, and a lot (including me) prefer them running downhill to the body for roll understeer.
Don't forget about the shocks, as they'll make the car faster. But I'd change LCA's to at least a poly/rod combo (which are $169 for the pair), or double LCA's @ $249. Or look at a different torque arm, or both.
Don't forget about the shocks, as they'll make the car faster. But I'd change LCA's to at least a poly/rod combo (which are $169 for the pair), or double LCA's @ $249. Or look at a different torque arm, or both.
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#10
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So you say LCA will help cure the wheelhop and get me better handling? Because i dont want to compromise with worse handling.....
You get so confused here sometimes because so many say so many different things...
My bilsteins made the wheelhop better. Had just the springs before...
You get so confused here sometimes because so many say so many different things...
My bilsteins made the wheelhop better. Had just the springs before...
#11
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Welcome to the internet, where everyone knows your name, er..... has an opinion.
The shocks helped and that's good, but they weren't ever meant for lowering springs. In short you may be able to help hop more, and certainly help the handling with something like a set of Koni's.
Be that as it may, yes I do think LCA's would be smarter (if you get the right ones) than brackets. The correct LCA's won't mess anything up and help the hop. The wrong one's will help hop, but bind in roll and not help handling any, likely hurting it.
The shocks helped and that's good, but they weren't ever meant for lowering springs. In short you may be able to help hop more, and certainly help the handling with something like a set of Koni's.
Be that as it may, yes I do think LCA's would be smarter (if you get the right ones) than brackets. The correct LCA's won't mess anything up and help the hop. The wrong one's will help hop, but bind in roll and not help handling any, likely hurting it.
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18 SCCA National Championships in house, many more for our customers prove we know our stuff.Talk is cheap, results matter.
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You need to make your own answer. You are the ONLY one who knows what they do or WILL do with the car. Taking what you learn here will allow you to make that informed decision. Sam Strano, trackbird, and mitchntx know their stuff. I highly value their opinion and input to whatever my question may be related to handling/suspension. That being said, you three, a barage of questions are-a-coming your way, TAX SEASON!
#16
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Originally Posted by Element
Just curious - why not? Are they unnecessary because the car is constantly in motion and the suspension working, so LCA angle relative to the chassis and the ground isn't a real issue?
There is something called "roll steer", and having the lca's angled upwards (lower on the axle than on the car) is "bad". When the body rolls, the outside of the car will get lower (due to body roll), this makes the control arm closer to level which makes the control arm effectively longer (think of standing it vertically, it's a foot and a half long, but only an inch wide when standing straight up, at a 45 degree angle, it's only half as long as it actually measures, the other half of the length is wasted in an up and down direction). That causes the back of the car to try to turn "out" because the opposite control (inside of the car which is rolling upward) arm now has a more severe angle, which makes it effectively shorter. So, the axle will "tilt" in the chassis (it doesn't stay square with the chassis, it actually turns left and right with body roll), when the LCA's are lower on the axle side, the wheels turn outward and will try to turn the rear of the car the opposite direction from the front. This can cause a spin, or at least make the car loose. Hence the name "roll oversteer". If the LCA's are lower on the chassis, the opposite happens. In a turn, the rear turns to the inside (the same way the front wheels are turned) and the car is more stable.
Clear as mudd, right?
I don't think I explained that very well, so ask questions and I or someone will hopefully do a better job of explaining/clarifying it.
#17
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Originally Posted by trackbird
It's actually more complex than that. I'll try to explain.
There is something called "roll steer", and having the lca's angled upwards (lower on the axle than on the car) is "bad". When the body rolls, the outside of the car will get lower (due to body roll), this makes the control arm closer to level which makes the control arm effectively longer (think of standing it vertically, it's a foot and a half long, but only an inch wide when standing straight up, at a 45 degree angle, it's only half as long as it actually measures, the other half of the length is wasted in an up and down direction). That causes the back of the car to try to turn "out" because the opposite control (inside of the car which is rolling upward) arm now has a more severe angle, which makes it effectively shorter. So, the axle will "tilt" in the chassis (it doesn't stay square with the chassis, it actually turns left and right with body roll), when the LCA's are lower on the axle side, the wheels turn outward and will try to turn the rear of the car the opposite direction from the front. This can cause a spin, or at least make the car loose. Hence the name "roll oversteer". If the LCA's are lower on the chassis, the opposite happens. In a turn, the rear turns to the inside (the same way the front wheels are turned) and the car is more stable.
Clear as mudd, right?
I don't think I explained that very well, so ask questions and I or someone will hopefully do a better job of explaining/clarifying it.
There is something called "roll steer", and having the lca's angled upwards (lower on the axle than on the car) is "bad". When the body rolls, the outside of the car will get lower (due to body roll), this makes the control arm closer to level which makes the control arm effectively longer (think of standing it vertically, it's a foot and a half long, but only an inch wide when standing straight up, at a 45 degree angle, it's only half as long as it actually measures, the other half of the length is wasted in an up and down direction). That causes the back of the car to try to turn "out" because the opposite control (inside of the car which is rolling upward) arm now has a more severe angle, which makes it effectively shorter. So, the axle will "tilt" in the chassis (it doesn't stay square with the chassis, it actually turns left and right with body roll), when the LCA's are lower on the axle side, the wheels turn outward and will try to turn the rear of the car the opposite direction from the front. This can cause a spin, or at least make the car loose. Hence the name "roll oversteer". If the LCA's are lower on the chassis, the opposite happens. In a turn, the rear turns to the inside (the same way the front wheels are turned) and the car is more stable.
Clear as mudd, right?
I don't think I explained that very well, so ask questions and I or someone will hopefully do a better job of explaining/clarifying it.
Or, would it be the opposite, since the higher angle would translate into a shorter linear "length" for the LCA on the outboard side of the car during a turn, which means the axle would angle inwards towards the turn?
Trying to think about suspension geometry at 11:30pm is kicking my ***.
#18
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Originally Posted by Element
Makes sense. However, if I can pose a second question, wouldn't the relocation brackets work in the positive if the car was lowered? That's assuming the brackets would allow the LCAs to be returned to a stock angle, because with a lowered car, the chassis end of the LCAs would be even lower, in which case it would make the car "steer out" worse in a hard turn.
Or, would it be the opposite, since the higher angle would translate into a shorter linear "length" for the LCA on the outboard side of the car during a turn, which means the axle would angle inwards towards the turn?
Or, would it be the opposite, since the higher angle would translate into a shorter linear "length" for the LCA on the outboard side of the car during a turn, which means the axle would angle inwards towards the turn?
The problem with most relocation brackets is that the holes are too far down for the autocross/road race crowd. I've seen guys weld them on and drill new holes where they needed them. That's always a possibility.
#20
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But then why does Sam say its better for handling to?
I just get more confused.....Is there no straight answer. Yes it is better no its not better......
I just get more confused.....Is there no straight answer. Yes it is better no its not better......