Want a brake upgrade but am short on cash
06-13-2007, 09:23 PM
#1
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Want a brake upgrade but am short on cash Like the title says. I really want some bigger brakes but I am not sure how to go about this. I really don't want to dish out $1,500+ on front brakes alone. I have heard of people putting some C5 brakes in fbodies but is that the best bang for the buck.
So what should I get? I want to spend less than $1,000.
So what should I get? I want to spend less than $1,000.
06-13-2007, 10:55 PM
#3
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Originally Posted by Roadhouse
Do a search. There's a lot of good info here.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....91&postcount=5
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes/353903-brake-faq.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes/366446-brake-reviews.html
06-13-2007, 11:06 PM
#4
My front C5 brake swap is costing me...
Caliper adapter brackets and hardware $125 (non-sponsor)
Calipers with abutment brackets $250 (non-sponsor)
Rotors $28 + $56 = $84 (Autozone)
Pads $75 (Stillen MetalMatrix....the calipers came with new pads included, but I wanted a better pad, so you don't have to count these)
Stainless brake lines (for entire car) $150 from Rotorsonline
$684 for all of the above. Also replacing my ball joints ($95 for all 4, $10ea for Duralast lowers and $35ea for TRW uppers) and upper A-arms because I got a smoking deal on some Spohn tubulars and my buddy and I are swapping spindles so he can have my LS1 brakes and I'll just cut his LT1 spindles up. Installing my front lowering springs too.
$130 for new rear rotors and $45 for Stillen MetalMatrix pads for the rear too. About $100 short of a grand for a total brake service/upgrade and ball joints
Caliper adapter brackets and hardware $125 (non-sponsor)
Calipers with abutment brackets $250 (non-sponsor)
Rotors $28 + $56 = $84 (Autozone)
Pads $75 (Stillen MetalMatrix....the calipers came with new pads included, but I wanted a better pad, so you don't have to count these)
Stainless brake lines (for entire car) $150 from Rotorsonline
$684 for all of the above. Also replacing my ball joints ($95 for all 4, $10ea for Duralast lowers and $35ea for TRW uppers) and upper A-arms because I got a smoking deal on some Spohn tubulars and my buddy and I are swapping spindles so he can have my LS1 brakes and I'll just cut his LT1 spindles up. Installing my front lowering springs too.
$130 for new rear rotors and $45 for Stillen MetalMatrix pads for the rear too. About $100 short of a grand for a total brake service/upgrade and ball joints
06-14-2007, 03:51 PM
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I was just researching this setup myself. UMI sells the whole kit with rotors for just under $900. That doesn't include stainless lines though and most of the kit is available separately.
06-17-2007, 10:59 PM
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I think I might just want to piece the kit together. Where is the best place to get some c5 calipers? And are all c5 calipers the same? Are the z06 ones better? What about aftermarket c5 vs. OEM c5 calipers? Thanks guys!
06-18-2007, 04:52 PM
#7
Originally Posted by ryanater
I think I might just want to piece the kit together. Where is the best place to get some c5 calipers? And are all c5 calipers the same? Are the z06 ones better? What about aftermarket c5 vs. OEM c5 calipers? Thanks guys!
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06-18-2007, 05:18 PM
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i didnt go bigger but i did definitely upgrade, i just made this purchase this afternoon,
Cross-drilled and Slotted Rotors ($169 for all 4)
GM Durastop Ceramic Pads ($59/front,$50/rear)
Steel Braided Brake Lines ($97 all hoses)
I purchased all the parts from one of our sponsors (WS6store.com)
it will definitely improve the performance of the car and i am only out $450 after shipping, just an idea for ya
Cross-drilled and Slotted Rotors ($169 for all 4)
GM Durastop Ceramic Pads ($59/front,$50/rear)
Steel Braided Brake Lines ($97 all hoses)
I purchased all the parts from one of our sponsors (WS6store.com)
it will definitely improve the performance of the car and i am only out $450 after shipping, just an idea for ya
06-18-2007, 06:56 PM
#11
Originally Posted by 02silvaZ
i didnt go bigger but i did definitely upgrade, i just made this purchase this afternoon,
Cross-drilled and Slotted Rotors ($169 for all 4)
GM Durastop Ceramic Pads ($59/front,$50/rear)
Steel Braided Brake Lines ($97 all hoses)
I purchased all the parts from one of our sponsors (WS6store.com)
it will definitely improve the performance of the car and i am only out $450 after shipping, just an idea for ya
Cross-drilled and Slotted Rotors ($169 for all 4)
GM Durastop Ceramic Pads ($59/front,$50/rear)
Steel Braided Brake Lines ($97 all hoses)
I purchased all the parts from one of our sponsors (WS6store.com)
it will definitely improve the performance of the car and i am only out $450 after shipping, just an idea for ya
06-22-2007, 08:07 PM
#15
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Originally Posted by 02silvaZ
sorry you disagree
The manufactures even admit it. Check out the FAQ section on their sites where they admit that the holes are for looks.
Wilwood:
http://www.wilwood.com/Centers/Infor..._answer/07.asp
Originally Posted by Wilwood
Why are some rotors drilled or slotted?
Rotors are drilled to reduce rotating weight, an issue near and dear to racers searching for ways to minimize unsprung weight. Drilling diminishes a rotor's durability and cooling capacity.
Slots or grooves in rotor faces are partly a carryover from the days of asbestos pads. Asbestos and other organic pads were prone to "glazing" and the slots tended to help "scrape or de-glaze" them. Drilling and slotting rotors has become popular in street applications for their pure aesthetic value. Wilwood has a large selection of drilled and slotted rotors for a wide range of applications.
Rotors are drilled to reduce rotating weight, an issue near and dear to racers searching for ways to minimize unsprung weight. Drilling diminishes a rotor's durability and cooling capacity.
Slots or grooves in rotor faces are partly a carryover from the days of asbestos pads. Asbestos and other organic pads were prone to "glazing" and the slots tended to help "scrape or de-glaze" them. Drilling and slotting rotors has become popular in street applications for their pure aesthetic value. Wilwood has a large selection of drilled and slotted rotors for a wide range of applications.
Baer
http://www.baer.com/technical/faq/index.php
Originally Posted by Baer
What are the benefits to cross-drilling, slotting, and zinc-washing my rotors?
In years past, cross-drilling and/or slotting the rotor for racing purposes was beneficial by providing a way to expel the gasses created when the bonding agents employed to manufacture the pads began to break down at extreme temperatures. This condition is often referred to as "green pad fade" or "outgassing". When it does occur, the driver still has a good firm brake pedal, but simply little or no friction. Since this normally happens only at temperatures witnessed in racing, this can be very exciting! However, with today´s race pad technology, “outgassing” is no longer much of a concern. When shopping for races pads, or even ultra high performance road pads, look for the phrases, "dynamic surface treatment", "race ready", and/or, "pre-burnished". When these or similar statements are made by the pad manufacturer, the pad in question will likely have little or no problem with “outgassing”. Ironically more pedestrian pads used on most streetcars will still exhibit “outgassing”, but only when used at temperatures normally only encountered on the racetrack. Although cross-drilling and/or slotting will provide a welcome path to expend any gasses when and if they develop, it is primarily a visual enhancement behind today’s often wide-open wheel designs. Cross-drilling offers the greatest gas relief pathway, but creates potential "stress risers" from which cracks can occur. Baer´s rotors are cast with cross-drilling in mind, from the material specified, to curved vanes, behind which the holes are placed to minimize potential crack migration. Slotted surfaces are what Baer recommends for track only use. Slotted only rotors are offered as an option for any of Baer’s offerings.
In years past, cross-drilling and/or slotting the rotor for racing purposes was beneficial by providing a way to expel the gasses created when the bonding agents employed to manufacture the pads began to break down at extreme temperatures. This condition is often referred to as "green pad fade" or "outgassing". When it does occur, the driver still has a good firm brake pedal, but simply little or no friction. Since this normally happens only at temperatures witnessed in racing, this can be very exciting! However, with today´s race pad technology, “outgassing” is no longer much of a concern. When shopping for races pads, or even ultra high performance road pads, look for the phrases, "dynamic surface treatment", "race ready", and/or, "pre-burnished". When these or similar statements are made by the pad manufacturer, the pad in question will likely have little or no problem with “outgassing”. Ironically more pedestrian pads used on most streetcars will still exhibit “outgassing”, but only when used at temperatures normally only encountered on the racetrack. Although cross-drilling and/or slotting will provide a welcome path to expend any gasses when and if they develop, it is primarily a visual enhancement behind today’s often wide-open wheel designs. Cross-drilling offers the greatest gas relief pathway, but creates potential "stress risers" from which cracks can occur. Baer´s rotors are cast with cross-drilling in mind, from the material specified, to curved vanes, behind which the holes are placed to minimize potential crack migration. Slotted surfaces are what Baer recommends for track only use. Slotted only rotors are offered as an option for any of Baer’s offerings.
Check out the links in the sticky:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....91&postcount=5
06-24-2007, 05:50 PM
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well excuse me VIP, no need to disgrace someone for something they wanted to buy, sorry i mislead everyone in the brake and suspension forum, i apologize that i am such a dumbass and i appreciate VIP for informing me on being stupid, i thought i would be helping out the braking performance of my car, i guess it will probably brake worse now, i guess i'll find out when i hit a tree or something, sorry to have offered up a suggestion, that is all it was, just a suggestion, he could have took it or left it, talk to y'all later
06-24-2007, 09:33 PM
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Originally Posted by 02silvaZ
well excuse me VIP, no need to disgrace someone for something they wanted to buy, sorry i mislead everyone in the brake and suspension forum, i apologize that i am such a dumbass and i appreciate VIP for informing me on being stupid, i thought i would be helping out the braking performance of my car, i guess it will probably brake worse now, i guess i'll find out when i hit a tree or something, sorry to have offered up a suggestion, that is all it was, just a suggestion, he could have took it or left it, talk to y'all later
