Dragaholic

iTrader: (180)

I ask that because Im not sure if I should go with tubular or boxed sub-frame connectors. Some say boxed because theyre stronger and wont bend or break, but then some say tubular because theyre lighter. But Im not sure what it would take to bend or break tubular SFCs. I dont think that I have that kind of power to do so. Im currently running all bolt-ons and a cam, but Im pretty sure that wouldnt do it. Would it be possible with stage 2 heads, a 12 bolt, a 4.10, and some tires? I just want to make sure that I pick the right ones. I am looking for the least amount of added weight, but I want to make sure that theyre going to hold up. Thanks

trackbird

iTrader: (4)

If you think it is a possibility, then it needs a cage. I doubt you could do it with less than 650 hp and likely not then. Anything fast enough to have this as a concern simply needs caged. Just my thoughts.

trackbird

iTrader: (4)

Part 2 of your answer is that you will not likely bend SFC's (of any type). But the stronger ones will stiffen the chassis better than the weaker designs will. This allows the suspension to work more effectively and helps keep the dash and interior from making the rattling noises that most older f-bodies suffer from. Those are the main reasons for subframe connectors to exsist. Hope this clarifies things somewhat....

Dragaholic

iTrader: (180)

How would the tubular (weaker design) be less effective as far as stiffening the chassis under normal driving conditions? I could see how it could be a possibility if I were racing it at the drag strip, but as far as driving it on the road...?? Do you have any clue what the difference in weight is between the BMR tubular and boxed? Who makes the lightest yet strongest sub-frame connectors? Thanks

blkbeaZ28

iTrader: (4)

will you be lowering your car? if so some people take that into consideration, they tend to pick out the tubular for a tad bit more ground clearence over the boxed

trackbird

iTrader: (4)

Try to bend a piece of 4" diameter roll cage tubing....then try to bend a piece of 1/2 inch copper pipe. The copper pipe is very flexible and would offer little improvement over no pipe at all. The 4" diameter tubing will take thousands of pounds to bend. YOu actually answered your own question...

Hope this helps....

trackbird

iTrader: (4)

Actually, I guess I didn't fully answer that last question.

As far as normal driving, the difference in stiffness is quite noticeable. If you have ever closed the door on a BMW or Mercedes, etc, they close with a solid "thud" like shutting the door to a bank vault. Those cars are usually quite rigid. As you stiffen a car, it will act, drive and feel better. Any connectors are an improvement. A set of beefy ones will be a huge improvement. The ideal condition for suspension to work is a rigid structure. If the body is flexing, it is reducing the spring rate. Body flex just means that you are using the springs to bend the body instead of compressing the spring and shock. A spring is attached to a shock to control oscillation (to dampen the motion of the spring). There is no shock absorber on the chassis, it becomes an uncontrolled spring. It really hurts all the good things you did with shocks and springs and sway bars if it is all just bending the body. Ford actually stiffened their mustangs like 25% one year....and reduced the spring rate about 30% a the same time....and the car handled better. I hope this makes some sense....good luck!

sawedoff

iTrader: (3)

You have a point here. Your application is important. I don't think structural failure will even be a possibility with conservative street use. The main thing to remember with any kind of structural bracing is, that you want it to triangulate (interconnect). This way things balance each other out, and tie together. I've been looking at Kenny Brown subframe connectors.They connect to each other. I don't see why it would be all that hard to find a knowledgable racing chassis builder to make you a set of subframes. If you want, you could look for some supplier of titanium tubing. You would really need to find somebody who knows his **** when it comes to welding titanium to steel. I don't know if there would be an issue of dissimilar metal corrosion.
Weight has been a major hang up for me to, on the subframe connectors. Alot of places use overly heavy designs. If I can get something lighter, that's just as effecive as the regular units, it's a win situation. Private email me, and I'll get you in touch with some suppliers of titanium.

Dragaholic

iTrader: (180)

Im not sure if Im worried about clearance because my car isnt lowered yet, and Im not sure if Im gonna go through with it or not. I am worried however about which ones to buy as far as strength and weight go. I want them to be light, but I also want them to be strong and actually be of some use when it comes to stiffening up the chassis. This is the problem, I could go with the tubular ones that are light, have less clearance issues, but are weaker and stiffen the chassis lesser. On the other hand, I could go with the boxed, that is stronger, stiffens the chassis better, but are heavier and have more clearance problems. My car isnt really focused for track purposes. My car is hardly ever taken to the track and is mostly driven on the road. Im am not looking to breaking any records or using it for a race car only but when I do go to the track, I want to make some awesome runs without running into any problems. Thanks

eagle928

I'd go with BMR boxed SFC's. I think it's the closest you'll get to the best of both worlds. It's lighter than other boxed designs, however it has the strentgh of boxed. I acutally ordered tubular then changed my order to boxed last minute. I didn't get them yet, but I am confident that I will be happier with them. I as you will be using my car mostly for street, however I want to make some awsome track runs. I feel the BMR boxed are a strong boxed design yet still saves you some weight issues. IMO.

trackbird

iTrader: (4)

Look at LG motorsports setup....light (lighter?) side bars and tehn cross braces to stiffen the body....I looked real hard at those (and decided to try SLP....which I'm reall happy with)....but if I do another car, I may try LG's on it....

hondakiller

iTrader: (3)

when i ordered mine i asked this question and the place told me the boxed are 2lbs heavier. i got the tubular's and they worked well. stiffened it up nicely and i havent had a problem with rattles or anything ever since.

Dragaholic

iTrader: (180)

Is it really necessary to get the cross member type SFCs? Im sure it stiffens it to the extreme, but is it really needed on a daily driver. I only plan to take it to the track here and there, but when I do so, I want to pull some awesome runs. Thanks

MTWallet

i have bmr tubular sfc's plus a strut tower brace.
i don't think there is a great difference in the boxed vs. tubular. i would bet if anyone drove a car with boxed and one with tubular and stb's they wouldn't know which one had which. just my thoughts

Deech

iTrader: (8)

Anyone have any experience with Hotchkis Boxed SFC's? My car is lowered and I need to save as much ground clearance as I can! I've heard these tuck up pretty good for a boxed design SFC.

Dragaholic

iTrader: (180)

Gosh...this is so difficult. I know that Im getting BMR whether its one or the other just for the fact that Im getting everything else in BMR. Im just having trouble figuring out which ones to get. Ive already decided on everything else, now I just need to figure out what SFCs to get. The boxed may be only 2lbs. heavier, but hang quite a bit lower. Theyre even lower than the Hotchkis. I like the tubular ones cause they dont hang as low and they are lighter, but as most of you would say are weaker. I just want to make sure that I get the right ones. I dont race the car very much and if I do, its from a roll on the street. I do plan to take it from time to time and thats when I will be most concerned about them holding up and doing the job. Thanks

BurnOut

iTrader: (1)

Funny you should mention that... I have boxed BMR SFC's and the LG V-braces in addition to their tunnel brace/DS loop. The bottom of the car looks like it has an external cage, but it is pretty stiff; even on stock shocks/springs/sway bars, it feels nice and solid on the turns.

Darkhalf

iTrader: (1)

Hotckis SFC's are probably your ticket if you want boxed, 2pt, light, do not hang low, in order to see the Hotchkis SFC's you literally have to be under the car to look at them.