If you had $1200 to spend on a stock-suspension '02 TA.
#1
If you had $1200 to spend on a stock-suspension '02 TA.
What would you buy? I go to the track every couple of months. Would just like it to handle a lot better, not feel like it 'floats' so much on acceleration.
I have 17x9.5 all the way around, with 265's up front and 285/40's out back.
Thanks!
I have 17x9.5 all the way around, with 265's up front and 285/40's out back.
Thanks!
#2
Koni SA's and Strano Springs, in the rare case you have anything left over, strano sway bars.
then go from there.
I did my **** *** backwards, but I'm used to doing things that way, but it's not always the best route to go
then go from there.
I did my **** *** backwards, but I'm used to doing things that way, but it's not always the best route to go
#3
if you don't want to lower the car just yet (but is a possiblity later), i'd get the following:
Koni S/A 4/3's @ Strano parts: $740.00 + S&H
UMI Poly/Rod LCA's w/bolt kit: $190.98 + S&H
UMI Adjustable Torque Arm: $299.99 + S&H
that would put you at $1231 + S&H
if you wanted to lower the car right now, i'd get the following:
Koni S/A 4/3's @ Strano parts: $740.00 + S&H
Strano lowering springs: $269.00 + S&H
UMI "On-car" adjustable PHR: $139.99 + S&H
UMI bolt-in LCA relocation brackets: $ 89.95 + S&H
which would put you at $1239 + S&H
either way, you will also need to factor in the price of getting the car re-aligned once the new shocks go in, plus any labor costs if you have a shop install the shocks/springs for you.
with the first set, if you wanted to leave something off to help pay for those things, i'd leave off the torque arm......or if you are never going to lower the car, you could substitute some Bilstein HD shocks (less pricey, around $450 - $550, IIRC) for the Koni's and keep the torque arm. either way with the first group, be sure to get the replacement bolt set with the LCA's and don't re-use the stock hardware, or it could lead to rattles later, due to them being improperly-sized for the new LCA's.
i would not at all recommend leaving out any of the parts in the second group....the adjustable PHR is necessary to re-center the rear end once the car is lowered, and the LCA relocation brackets will let you regain the traction that will be lost by lowering the car.
Koni S/A 4/3's @ Strano parts: $740.00 + S&H
UMI Poly/Rod LCA's w/bolt kit: $190.98 + S&H
UMI Adjustable Torque Arm: $299.99 + S&H
that would put you at $1231 + S&H
if you wanted to lower the car right now, i'd get the following:
Koni S/A 4/3's @ Strano parts: $740.00 + S&H
Strano lowering springs: $269.00 + S&H
UMI "On-car" adjustable PHR: $139.99 + S&H
UMI bolt-in LCA relocation brackets: $ 89.95 + S&H
which would put you at $1239 + S&H
either way, you will also need to factor in the price of getting the car re-aligned once the new shocks go in, plus any labor costs if you have a shop install the shocks/springs for you.
with the first set, if you wanted to leave something off to help pay for those things, i'd leave off the torque arm......or if you are never going to lower the car, you could substitute some Bilstein HD shocks (less pricey, around $450 - $550, IIRC) for the Koni's and keep the torque arm. either way with the first group, be sure to get the replacement bolt set with the LCA's and don't re-use the stock hardware, or it could lead to rattles later, due to them being improperly-sized for the new LCA's.
i would not at all recommend leaving out any of the parts in the second group....the adjustable PHR is necessary to re-center the rear end once the car is lowered, and the LCA relocation brackets will let you regain the traction that will be lost by lowering the car.
#6
Are the strano's that good? I've been able to price together from places like ws6store.com and others, for much less with not really sacrificing quality. I don't road race and only go to the track intermittently.
lca - $65
subframes - $145
front swaybar - $150
adjust phb - $140
springs $200
shocks (bilsteins or Koni's, non adjustable) - $320
stb - $100
______________
$1190 including shipping.
That'd be pretty solid, right?
lca - $65
subframes - $145
front swaybar - $150
adjust phb - $140
springs $200
shocks (bilsteins or Koni's, non adjustable) - $320
stb - $100
______________
$1190 including shipping.
That'd be pretty solid, right?
Last edited by DFWGrant; 10-06-2007 at 11:03 AM.
#7
You're best bet is to call Sam and talk over what you want out of the car. He's not going to sell you anything you don't need and I think we can all agree he's probably the most educated on here when it comes to suspension.
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#8
Are the strano's that good? I've been able to price together from places like ws6store.com and others, for much less with not really sacrificing quality. I don't road race and only go to the track intermittently.
lca - $65
subframes - $145
front swaybar - $150
adjust phb - $140
springs $200
shocks (bilsteins or Koni's, non adjustable) - $320
stb - $100
______________
$1190 including shipping.
That'd be pretty solid, right?
lca - $65
subframes - $145
front swaybar - $150
adjust phb - $140
springs $200
shocks (bilsteins or Koni's, non adjustable) - $320
stb - $100
______________
$1190 including shipping.
That'd be pretty solid, right?
All you really need are Koni SA's to get rid of the floaty feeling (and those are around $700, but worth every penny, will dramatically make the car handle better). Things like swaybars and springs will also dramatically improve handling.
SFCs and STBs are pretty useless in terms of handling, many cannot even tell the difference with them.
I personally would suggest Konis and strano springs as well.
http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...ID=0&ModelID=7
http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...ID=0&ModelID=7
His springs are designed specifically for handling, tried and tested, unlike most other springs on the market for our cars.
#9
Strano springs, bars, and Koni SA's, and a UMI adjustable PHB got this on my 02 WS6 and it handles like its on rails, not to mention the compliments I got today on the stance.
It rides a little rougher, but it handles great
So save up a little more $$$ and get the whole 9 yards you'll be well rewarded with a much better handling T/A
It rides a little rougher, but it handles great
So save up a little more $$$ and get the whole 9 yards you'll be well rewarded with a much better handling T/A
#10
Im running the same as 2k2ws6ta, minus the bars, but plus lcas and sfc. But ofcourse that costs more than what your looking to spend. Either way, do your research and set a goal. Most people buy parts without a set goal in mind and end up later removing parts or changing something. Good luck.
#11
If you do a search you can find the 8241-1139Sport shocks for 220 a piece and the 30-1265 shocks for 100 bux a piece. A total of 640 plus 20-25 bux shipping!!! PM me for the site.
#13
My son and I lowered the car this week using:
Strano Springs
Koni gen3 adjustable rear shocks with gen 4 Koni shocks on front
UMI adjustable LCA's and PHB
It's more than the $1200 limit, but the results are worth it. The stance is where it should be, the handling has improved and the car seems to have fewer rattles. The ride is stiffer than stock, but not uncomfortable. The Koni's are set at the lowest setting for now. It seems to work fine on the streets around here.
The front took about 3 1/2 hours for each side. We had to cut the swaybar links off, and lost an hour each with the top nut on the shocks. Both sides were rusted, and the sockets wouldn't grab. The rear took about 4 hours. Alot of time spent on peeling the carpet back to access the rear shocks from inside the car.
Strano Springs
Koni gen3 adjustable rear shocks with gen 4 Koni shocks on front
UMI adjustable LCA's and PHB
It's more than the $1200 limit, but the results are worth it. The stance is where it should be, the handling has improved and the car seems to have fewer rattles. The ride is stiffer than stock, but not uncomfortable. The Koni's are set at the lowest setting for now. It seems to work fine on the streets around here.
The front took about 3 1/2 hours for each side. We had to cut the swaybar links off, and lost an hour each with the top nut on the shocks. Both sides were rusted, and the sockets wouldn't grab. The rear took about 4 hours. Alot of time spent on peeling the carpet back to access the rear shocks from inside the car.
#16
#18
mine has never "floated" with my combo, this combo would not either, QA1's are the top of the line. IMO and best for weight transfer to the rear.
#19
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...vs#post3925539
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...vs#post7485304
Also the relocation brackets are for drag racing applications also, and SFC's are arguably dead weight.