bostonZ28

I had to do my pads&rotors over and I purchased the rotors from WS6store.com After taking everything apart & putting all the new pads/rotors on I tried to put the caliper back on and the pads&rotors are too thick. I did make sure the caliper was compressed all the way but there is no give at all. Its so tight that I couldnt even turn the rotor by hand when everything was on! I'm not sure if I need to have the rotors cut by a mechine shop or not or just install everything and hope the car will move and just ride it out for a while to grind them down.

96tealTA

iTrader: (2)

I've just installed the same rotors on my car from ws6store, and I thought I had the same problem. When you compress your pistons, do you open the bleed screw? After I did that,the piston moved another 1/8" and everything fit great. Did you get the slotted and drilled rotors or the just slotted rotors?

VIP1

Remember, if you open the bleeder screw, you now have to bleed that caliper.

_JB_

iTrader: (33)

Did you take the cap off the master cylinder?

Mr Incredible

You likely just need to push the pucks back in a little further. Don't be shy. A little bit more isn't going to kill it. If you got it on, it'll just take a shade more.

For a good tool to get the puck back in, see the one I made.

I made this tool to push the pucks back in on disc brake jobs. It's easier than trying to use c-clamps, and it's dead cheap.

The center bolt is just a long bolt, but you could use all-thread. All nuts and the bolt head are 1/2".

The puck end has a double-nut on it, the other end has a bolt head that I turn with a socket wrench. You could put a particular sized washer on this end to keep the tool centered in the puck. I haven't, and it still works well.

The flange is just a heavy piece of scrap I had laying around. The center nut under the flange has a wrench on it to hold it while turning the socket wrench to tighten.

I've use it on my F250SD, my 98 Z28, Daughter's 97 Dodge Avenger, and the CRX.

bostonZ28

96tealTa-Yea they are the drilled & slotted ones, and I'm using pads from Autozone.

JB- Yes I made sure I took off the cap on the res.

Mr.Incredible-That tool you made is awsome but I ended up just keeping the old rotors on and changing the pads out. After about two weeks im going to try to install the pads on the new rotors again hoping they wore down that extra 1/8 of a inch!

Thanks for all the help guys!

z28bryan

iTrader: (7)

Once I got some cheap pads from autozone (Durastop?) and the pad ears didn't fit the caliper bracket so I returned them. They didn't slide in easy on the bracket, they needed force. Did this happen to you?

96tealTA

iTrader: (2)

[QUOTE=bostonZ28;8202607]96tealTa-Yea they are the drilled & slotted ones, and I'm using pads from Autozone.[QUOTE]

Be careful with those. The rotors that are drilled will start the crack. Next time just get the slotted rotors.