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Adjustable or not? (Torque Arm)

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Old Dec 4, 2007 | 11:51 PM
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Default Adjustable or not? (Torque Arm)

Im shopping Torque arms now, and i dont know which one to get. I have a true dual exhaust and i know that the UMI one fits, but i dont know if BMR or if the others fit. Also should i go with an adjustable or not. My car will not see very much track time, and i am leaning toward an auto X set up. So any input please....
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Old Dec 4, 2007 | 11:56 PM
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If your going to Auto-X and the car is not lowered you can save money with the non-adj. If it's not a big deal to pop for the adj. then go with that. It will give you more room to play with your settings when you are at the track.

I personally like UMI's products. As well as BMR. Really stout and well engineered products.
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Old Dec 5, 2007 | 12:01 AM
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What is the diff between a drag set up and a auto x set up TQ arm? is it just the length?
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Old Dec 5, 2007 | 12:28 AM
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The short arm is for (more) drag:
Pro: Instant center of gravity moved for quicker action.
Con: Can/will cause rear wheel hop under hard breaking.

The long arm:
Pro: Longer arm eases the car into it.
Con: With HARD launches the trans mounted arm can break off the end of the tail shaft.
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Old Dec 5, 2007 | 10:15 AM
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Trent, what the hell are torque arms?
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Old Dec 5, 2007 | 10:58 AM
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Originally Posted by djsanchez2
The short arm is for (more) drag:
Pro: Instant center of gravity moved for quicker action.
Con: Can/will cause rear wheel hop under hard breaking.

The long arm:
Pro: Longer arm eases the car into it.
Con: With HARD launches the trans mounted arm can break off the end of the tail shaft.
Tailshaft breakage is not that common, though it can happen with enough traction and power. But if you are worried about it, you can run a full length TA with a TA relocation kit to move the mount off the tranny. Like this one (this is a LS1 6-speed version, auto's and LT1's are different) http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...D=22&ModelID=7

As for the TA itself: It's an $80 difference to an adjustable one, which I think is only smart. You can dial in a bit more pinion angle to help traction, you can compensate for a change in pinion angle if you lower or raise the car.
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Old Dec 5, 2007 | 11:59 AM
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I see no point in getting a non adjustable torque arm . . .
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Old Dec 5, 2007 | 01:12 PM
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yup if your gonna do it, do it right
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Old Dec 6, 2007 | 02:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Sam Strano
Tailshaft breakage is not that common, though it can happen with enough traction and power.
That happened on my buddy's Z and his motor is stock spare the LT's. I'm not sure if just had a weak tail shaft or what. He does have full suspension though and a 3600 stall and while he has only been to the track 2-3 times his normal driving habits leave much to be desired.


Point being, if you're gonna get a TA, might as well get an adjustable one with the re-location bracket to be safe.
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Old Dec 6, 2007 | 08:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Prerun4fun13
Im shopping Torque arms now, and i dont know which one to get. I have a true dual exhaust and i know that the UMI one fits, but i dont know if BMR or if the others fit. Also should i go with an adjustable or not. My car will not see very much track time, and i am leaning toward an auto X set up. So any input please....
Our non-adjustable torque arm would clear in your application no problem. But I also would recommend looking into getting the adjustable version versus the non-adjustable version.

Lee Spicher
lee@bmrfabrication.com
(813)986-9302
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Old Dec 6, 2007 | 11:15 AM
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I didn't say it couldn't happen, and cars that wheelhop a lot are more prone to it. We've broken 3 stock TA's, never a tailshaft. But, yes it's obviously not impossible to break the transmission itself.

If you look at the actual location the tunnel mount bolt up to vs. the tranny crossmember mounting pads, I think you'll see why I prefer the latter. I'm not keen on moving off the tailshaft because it's "weak" then using a less beefy location to put that force into. YMMV, but that's why I recommend the full-length TA and Relocation kit. It does cost a bit more, but it's the best and stongest overall result.
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Old Dec 6, 2007 | 01:45 PM
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The thing about adjustable torque arms is, they do not (in
themself) adjust the instant center and "bite" response. The
adjustment only changes the pinion angle and driveline angle
relation. But the actual arm angle is set by rear axle position
and nose mount. You can minimize driveline angle errors and
vibration with your usual adjustable TA, that's the good part.
But people who talk about adjusting pinion angle (alone) for
bite I think are missing a big part of the picture. It's the link
angles, TA and LCA - not where the snout is pointing. The
adjustable TAs give you the extra degree of freedom to get
your pinion angle right (for the driveline) when you've gone
and messed around the link geometry (for looks or traction).

Relocating crossmembers that have multiple hole-pairs do let
you tune the suspension for launch. Some relocating
crossmembers do, some don't. If you really want to tune instant
center you need one where you can adjust the nose angle.
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