jattgunman

iTrader: (1)

So im planning on changing my tie rods(inner/outer this week and was wondering if its a difficult job?
And any tips from those that have done it before?

qwikz28

iTrader: (12)

i tried it. couldnt do it. took it to a shop. supposedly its easy if you know how to do it, i didn't have that luxury. hope that helps

jattgunman

iTrader: (1)

awww mannn..I figured it would be hard to do after the shop quoted me at $78labor for the inner tie rod alone...

SSwanner

iTrader: (128)

the outers are easy to do. the inners require a couple of special tools. you will need the toe set/alignment after the install though.

do you actually need them or are you just replacing them?

pm me if you have any more questions, i don't visit this section very much....

ccsanders01

iTrader: (1)

it is best if you can measure from grease fitting to grease fitting

jattgunman

iTrader: (1)

yea I need them because I seem to of damaged my old ones...lots of clicking and popping..I think ill just let a shop do both inner and outer plus alignment..

JScamaro

iTrader: (6)

Make sure they know how to jack up your car..watch them jack it up if you can, otherwise you may have bent fenders.

SOMbitch

iTrader: (8)

Popping sounds more like ball joints than tie rods. Get your wheels up in the air and check for play.

BlackDuk98

iTrader: (34)

exactly what he said. sided to side play would be inner or outer rie rod (gotta put your hand on them to feel, otherwise, squeeze the outers w/ a pair of channel locks) You will see and feel th play when you squeeze them. You will have to use the channel locks to squeeze the ball joints to, with the pressure of the channel locks still squeezing the ball joint, put a pry bar there and pry up on the ball joint avoiding the boot. You will feel the play definately.

Inner tie rods, like previously mentioned, will need a special tool, which actually could be made. Otherwise, on some cars, you can use a big creasant wrench, and after you get the plastic sheild off the inner rod, you will see 2 flats machined there for grip, and twist it off. (not sure how much room on the f-body if you were to use a wrench). When I worked at the shop, we were always advised to put a little thread lock back on the threads.

Outers, brake the nut free, but don't spin it or loose it's position. Count the complete rotations that it takes to twist the outer off. (most cars I deal with are between 18-23 turns) Then, match up the outer rods and make sure they are exactly the same size. Toss neversieze on the threads, and twist the new one on the same amount of turns that it took to take the old one off. Should end right at the front of the jam nut. Make sure to re-tighten the nut. 95% of the time, you won't mess your alignment up this way. And if it is off a little, then it is saves a bunch of time on the alignment rack. They are pretty easy once you do them a time or 2

DarkhorSe_SS

iTrader: (15)

i'm in the same boat... noise comes from my front left side.