smokintiresz28

Just looiking for anything sugestions on which springs to get I have everyday driver but want a mean look.

BMR Tech2

iTrader: (5)

Hello, we offer a set of springs that will lower your car 1" and still retain good ride quality. Our springs are available as a set of four or you can purchase front or rears in pairs. SP001 $229.95 all four, SP002 fronts $125.95 per pair,SP003 rears $125.95 per pair. If you have any questions please give us a call. Our tech/sales dept is available MON-FRI 8:30AM-6:00PM EST. Here is a link to our site and a couple of pics with our springs installed.

http://www.bmrfabrication.com/F-bodySuspension.htm

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

Some pics of cars with Strano Performance Lowering Springs. Tried to give a variety of cars and one set has before/after photos so you can see the differences.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes/686357-strano-springs-pics-inside.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes/576054-before-after-pics-strano-springs.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes/783782-installed-strano-springs-koni-4-4-s-pics-inside.html

The springs aren't the cheapest, because I wasn't going for cheap springs. I wanted springs that performed as I wanted as they work. And hey, we also ended up saving some weight.

If you just want the car dropped and don't care about how it works or rides, then just pic a spring. Making lowering springs isn't difficult. Making them work well is, and there are differences.

RW99

Hey, can I piggyback on this thread? Currently I have single adj. QA1s with the 275 lb springs (I think) up front and 90,000 mile original spings on the back. I use Nitto 555s (245/17) on the front and MT or BFG DRs (315/17) on the back. The car is very nervous on mid-corner pavement irregularities and I have very little confidence in the front end. Originally I wanted a setup that would provide the best weight transfer for max hook, but the truth is the car is driven around for fun and never at the track. I'm looking for a setup that will give me solid street hooking and 1.7 60' at the track with my manual tranny... without riding like a floaty cheap cut-spring Civic. I do not want a super-handling package, no Auto-X for this car... just very safe normal driving and perfect control at the drags with normal street radial front tires. All other front suspension components are stock, the rear has DD subframes, BMR panhard and adj. torque arm, LCAs with relocating brackets, sway bar, etc...

I'm looking for springs to use with the QA1s. Also advice on improvements to the front suspension.

I don't think I can replace the stock K member because I have a front-mount PTK turbo kit on the car whose plumbing is all intertwined with the stock piece.

Here is a pic of the ride height; I can't go any lower because of the PTK crossover pipe.



Any help/ideas most appreciated. Also info on how adjustable the ride height will be with any modifications to my current setup.

BMR Tech2

iTrader: (5)

RW99, the #275 springs are the reason that your cars not handling very well. Those are what QA1 considers a drag only spring. They offer a #325 spring that would help your car handle much better than it does now. What setting do you have your shocks on? Firming them up will also help but you need to replace those springs with the stiffer ones to see any kind of handling improvements. Give me a call if you have any questions or need to get a set.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

Your car is not handling well because you have the wrong type of shocks and springs. It's not the 275 rate. Stock rate on an LS1 is 292. And calling 325 a handling rate is a complete joke since the stock rate on a LT1 front spring is 310.

You want the car to work better? I'd suggest two changes. 1. Put stock springs back on the front. 2. Change the front shocks to at minimum a set of Tokico's. The car won't take a set because of the damping (or lack thereof). It's not the springs, though they aren't helping. It's the shocks. And fwiw, I realize you don't auto-x, etc. But the car doesn't know what you are doing, and shocks only damp movement and because the car weighs what it does and is driven on public roads, movement will be there. I.E. "not autoxing" doesn't really matter, because the car still weighs 3400+ pounds and the shocks need to control that regardless of where the car is being driven. That's not currently happening. That's why the car isn't stable.

And FWIW, I've got more than a few folks on "handling" setups that can and do run 1.7's or better when drag racing. Complete with lowering springs, and Koni's. And the car will handle a lot better too. You don't need to change all that if you don't wish, but you could and not really hurt your launching.

JD_AMG

Listen to Sam Strano on this one, hes one of the few vendors that take time to explain things, and isn't just doing a copy-paste job.
He is correct, I've personally been in a car with QA1s, and it drove/rode like a boat because those shocks are made for dragracing.
Read through this thread, I think you'll like it.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...45#post8344345

BMR Tech2

iTrader: (5)

JD, first off my response was not a copy and paste he asked the question what he could do with his existing setup. Yes sam does know suspension well ,but without spending $700 on koni's he can make his existing setup work by increasinging his spring rate and setting the shocks to a stiffer setting.

hpjunky98

iTrader: (3)

Increasing the spring rate is a bandaid fix. The reason the car feels unpredictible and sloppy is because QA1s are not meant to be used in a handling application. They were manufactured for increased weight transfer to the rear in a strait line. All you'll really get out of stiffer springs with those shocks is a worse ride.

BMR Tech

iTrader: (9)

If I read his question properly he was looking for "safe normal driving" and the easiest way for him to do that would be to switch to the higher spring rate and to adjust his dampening IMO.

I have many customers who daily drive there street/strip car with this setup and are very happy with both the driving and ride characteristics of there car.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

While I mentioned Koni's, it was only in passing at the end to show that we can get cars to leave with "handling" suspensions on them.

What I suggested here as a fix had nothing to do with Koni's.

Frankly, I see the shocks as a much bigger issue than the 275's. I agree that if he has not tried a higher shock setting, he should. I admit that I assumed he'd have known that since shock damping is something I discuss with folks on a constant basis. It was my bad to assume he knew to try that.

JD_AMG

The car with the QA1s that I rode in had 300lbs springs, and was on a relatively high setting (what I was told). The car bounced and floated down the road, no surprise.
Can he make his current setup better? Sure. Will it be dramatically better with better shocks? Yes!

mycamaroSS

iTrader: (4)

strano....

smokintiresz28

so what you are saying is dont get the 289 $ eibachs.

Vndcatr

iTrader: (8)

bmr springs have a sweet low but not slammed look

BMR Tech

iTrader: (9)

Sorry thread got WAY off topic I offer a lowering spring that gives you about an 1.25" lower than stock stance. While our springs are only $229.95 for the set they do offer excellent ride and handling qualities that you would expect from a top quality performance spring. Here are several cars running our spring to help you visualize the look of the car.

If you have any questions regarding our product line please feel free to ask

Shock Hawk

I have a set of used Eibachs. Here's a picture of my car with them (recent) and some pictures of the springs. They are 50$ + shipping.

Stockers are 292lb/in front and 130-180lb/in progressive rear

Eibach Pro are 400lb/in front and 80-137lb/in progressive rear





They look like Eibach Pro's (1.25 inch drop)


Black spring is the Eibach. White is the Strano.
(front)
http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/989/hpim0616bsn4.jpg
(back)
http://img220.imageshack.us/img220/736/hpim0582bzi2.jpg

Btw, it is always recommended that you upgrade your shocks when you upgrade your springs.

z28bryan

iTrader: (7)

Question... are you willing to spend a few extra bucks to get the perfect balance between handling and ride quality?

Hands down... koni SA's with Strano springs. Do a search on them and you will enlighten yourself.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

Though the springs look similar (because both Eibach and Strano are linear front, dual-stage progressive rear) they are pretty different in rate.

Starting with the front. Notice the heavier wire diameter, my front springs are 550 lbs/in. vs. the Eibach that are 400's. This is why they are physically shorter, but don't lower the car any more than Eibach (and if you get a "low" set of Eibach's, we drop less).

The rear springs. You'll notice my soft rate (the 3 close coils) is shorter. The rate is 100 lbs/in, and anyone with a good grip can compress them by hand. The car just causes them to be dead and out of play when you drive. They need to be there or the spring will come loose at full axle droop. The working rate on mine is 150. Compare the Eibach's and you'll see the coil spacing is closer and there are more coils. The Eibach rears are 80 on the "tender" end, and 137 working. Mine are 100 on the tender side and 150 on the working rate. And you'll recall no issues with sagging with our springs.

Are there cheaper springs? There are. But I'll put mine up against any others any day. Mine weigh less, mine are proven, and I developed them to turn corners and deal with real world imperfections as best as I could. The development curve included coil-overs and playing with a number of spring rate combinations until I found what I wanted. And the springs are guaranteed to be within 2% of the stated rate.... some big name coil-over race springs on guarantee within 5% of the stated rate. And that's what leads to sagging. A spring of a set height without the rate to support the car.....