springs
http://www.bmrfabrication.com/F-bodySuspension.htm
Last edited by BMR Tech2; Dec 9, 2008 at 09:26 AM.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes/686357-strano-springs-pics-inside.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes/576054-before-after-pics-strano-springs.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes/783782-installed-strano-springs-koni-4-4-s-pics-inside.html
The springs aren't the cheapest, because I wasn't going for cheap springs. I wanted springs that performed as I wanted as they work. And hey, we also ended up saving some weight.
If you just want the car dropped and don't care about how it works or rides, then just pic a spring. Making lowering springs isn't difficult. Making them work well is, and there are differences.
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
I'm looking for springs to use with the QA1s. Also advice on improvements to the front suspension.
I don't think I can replace the stock K member because I have a front-mount PTK turbo kit on the car whose plumbing is all intertwined with the stock piece.
Here is a pic of the ride height; I can't go any lower because of the PTK crossover pipe.

Any help/ideas most appreciated. Also info on how adjustable the ride height will be with any modifications to my current setup.
You want the car to work better? I'd suggest two changes. 1. Put stock springs back on the front. 2. Change the front shocks to at minimum a set of Tokico's. The car won't take a set because of the damping (or lack thereof). It's not the springs, though they aren't helping. It's the shocks. And fwiw, I realize you don't auto-x, etc. But the car doesn't know what you are doing, and shocks only damp movement and because the car weighs what it does and is driven on public roads, movement will be there. I.E. "not autoxing" doesn't really matter, because the car still weighs 3400+ pounds and the shocks need to control that regardless of where the car is being driven. That's not currently happening. That's why the car isn't stable.
And FWIW, I've got more than a few folks on "handling" setups that can and do run 1.7's or better when drag racing. Complete with lowering springs, and Koni's. And the car will handle a lot better too. You don't need to change all that if you don't wish, but you could and not really hurt your launching.
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
I'm looking for springs to use with the QA1s. Also advice on improvements to the front suspension.
I don't think I can replace the stock K member because I have a front-mount PTK turbo kit on the car whose plumbing is all intertwined with the stock piece.
Here is a pic of the ride height; I can't go any lower because of the PTK crossover pipe.

Any help/ideas most appreciated. Also info on how adjustable the ride height will be with any modifications to my current setup.
He is correct, I've personally been in a car with QA1s, and it drove/rode like a boat because those shocks are made for dragracing.
Read through this thread, I think you'll like it.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...45#post8344345
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I have many customers who daily drive there street/strip car with this setup and are very happy with both the driving and ride characteristics of there car.
What I suggested here as a fix had nothing to do with Koni's.

Frankly, I see the shocks as a much bigger issue than the 275's. I agree that if he has not tried a higher shock setting, he should. I admit that I assumed he'd have known that since shock damping is something I discuss with folks on a constant basis. It was my bad to assume he knew to try that.
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
Can he make his current setup better? Sure. Will it be dramatically better with better shocks? Yes!
I offer a lowering spring that gives you about an 1.25" lower than stock stance. While our springs are only $229.95 for the set they do offer excellent ride and handling qualities that you would expect from a top quality performance spring. Here are several cars running our spring to help you visualize the look of the car.If you have any questions regarding our product line please feel free to ask
Stockers are 292lb/in front and 130-180lb/in progressive rear
Eibach Pro are 400lb/in front and 80-137lb/in progressive rear

They look like Eibach Pro's (1.25 inch drop)

Black spring is the Eibach. White is the Strano.
(front)
http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/989/hpim0616bsn4.jpg
(back)
http://img220.imageshack.us/img220/736/hpim0582bzi2.jpg
Btw, it is always recommended that you upgrade your shocks when you upgrade your springs.
Hands down... koni SA's with Strano springs. Do a search on them and you will enlighten yourself.
Stockers are 292lb/in front and 130-180lb/in progressive rear
Eibach Pro are 400lb/in front and 80-137lb/in progressive rear
They look like Eibach Pro's (1.25 inch drop)

Black spring is the Eibach. White is the Strano.
(front)
http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/989/hpim0616bsn4.jpg
(back)
http://img220.imageshack.us/img220/736/hpim0582bzi2.jpg
Btw, it is always recommended that you upgrade your shocks when you upgrade your springs.
Starting with the front. Notice the heavier wire diameter, my front springs are 550 lbs/in. vs. the Eibach that are 400's. This is why they are physically shorter, but don't lower the car any more than Eibach (and if you get a "low" set of Eibach's, we drop less).
The rear springs. You'll notice my soft rate (the 3 close coils) is shorter. The rate is 100 lbs/in, and anyone with a good grip can compress them by hand. The car just causes them to be dead and out of play when you drive. They need to be there or the spring will come loose at full axle droop. The working rate on mine is 150. Compare the Eibach's and you'll see the coil spacing is closer and there are more coils. The Eibach rears are 80 on the "tender" end, and 137 working. Mine are 100 on the tender side and 150 on the working rate. And you'll recall no issues with sagging with our springs.
Are there cheaper springs? There are. But I'll put mine up against any others any day. Mine weigh less, mine are proven, and I developed them to turn corners and deal with real world imperfections as best as I could. The development curve included coil-overs and playing with a number of spring rate combinations until I found what I wanted. And the springs are guaranteed to be within 2% of the stated rate.... some big name coil-over race springs on guarantee within 5% of the stated rate. And that's what leads to sagging. A spring of a set height without the rate to support the car.....
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion






