Bench Bleed New Calipers?
#1
Staging Lane
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Bench Bleed New Calipers?
Hey everybody
I searched quite a few terms (changing calipers, caliper swap, new calipers, calipers, etc.) and read a lot of threads but didnt see the answer to my question. Hopefully those in the know can give me some pointers
I will have my powdercoated brake calipers back soon and plan on installing them next weekend.
I am wondering if I need to manually fill the caliper with fluid (IE: bench bleed) prior to bolting it up or since I will have a Motive Power Bleeder (ordered- on the way), just hook them up dry and bleed way.
I'm just looking for any tips that will ensure I have a successful install the first time around with no need for later threads titled:
"mushy pedal"
"help- I have no brakes!"
"leaking from calipers" etc etc
Thanks!
I searched quite a few terms (changing calipers, caliper swap, new calipers, calipers, etc.) and read a lot of threads but didnt see the answer to my question. Hopefully those in the know can give me some pointers
I will have my powdercoated brake calipers back soon and plan on installing them next weekend.
I am wondering if I need to manually fill the caliper with fluid (IE: bench bleed) prior to bolting it up or since I will have a Motive Power Bleeder (ordered- on the way), just hook them up dry and bleed way.
I'm just looking for any tips that will ensure I have a successful install the first time around with no need for later threads titled:
"mushy pedal"
"help- I have no brakes!"
"leaking from calipers" etc etc
Thanks!
#2
Kleeborp the Moderator™
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Nope...last winter/spring, I changed all of my brake lines to stainless braided units, and I let the calipers run dry. At the same time, I changed out the rear hard lines, and ditched the ABS up front, which essentially made me run the master cylinder dry.
I hooked everything up, hooked up my Motive Power Bleeder, and within about 20 minutes, everything was bled, no bubbles, no mushy pedal, nothing. Just nice, solid brakes.
I think where people run into issues is when the let the ABS module go dry, or if they try to reuse the copper crush washers on the banjo bolts. If you still have ABS, don't let that block go dry, and copper crush washers are one time use only items. Other than that, you should be set. The Motive bleeder has really helped me out since I tend to work on my car solo.
I hooked everything up, hooked up my Motive Power Bleeder, and within about 20 minutes, everything was bled, no bubbles, no mushy pedal, nothing. Just nice, solid brakes.
I think where people run into issues is when the let the ABS module go dry, or if they try to reuse the copper crush washers on the banjo bolts. If you still have ABS, don't let that block go dry, and copper crush washers are one time use only items. Other than that, you should be set. The Motive bleeder has really helped me out since I tend to work on my car solo.
#3
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Excellent. That's what I was hoping for.
I will be working solo on this project as well which is why I bought the Motive bleeder.
10-4 on the crush washers and not running dry since I do have ABS.
Thanks for sharing your info
I will be working solo on this project as well which is why I bought the Motive bleeder.
10-4 on the crush washers and not running dry since I do have ABS.
Thanks for sharing your info
#4
i will be doing the same thing. i also have the motive bleeder. do i need to occasionally allow the air to come out of the other calipers will i am bleeding the passenger side rear caliper first.
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Never used the Motive bleeder, I'm sure it's great, but I recently bled my brakes alone with Earl's solo bleeders. It was the easiest thing I've ever done. Just basically press the pedal to the floor, let up, and repeat 4 or 5 times. The first couple pumps you see brake fluid and air coming into the bottle's hose, and then after a couple more pumps it's all fluid. Start Pass. Rear, then Driver Rear, Pass. Front, Driver Front. Also, as Meent mentioned, keep the MC topped off. Piece of cake.
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Options are good, so I thought I'd mention Earl's Bleeders.
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That was a minor problem, I didn't do anything except keeping the fitting upright, putting shop towels underneath, and keeping an eye on the MC level. It just dripped slowly. I wanted to change the fluid anyway.
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Kleeborp the Moderator™
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my two cents...
1. don't forget to switch to super blue brake fluid
2. i've heard; if you are bleading one at a time to start at the furthest corner... i.e. rear passenger.
me myself, i used super blue and some self bleeders and only do minor maintenance for the last 3 years.
1. don't forget to switch to super blue brake fluid
2. i've heard; if you are bleading one at a time to start at the furthest corner... i.e. rear passenger.
me myself, i used super blue and some self bleeders and only do minor maintenance for the last 3 years.
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Sorry to revive an old thread, but at least I used the search button!
I am replacing my brake calipers and brake lines in my 1999 Firebird LS1 with ABS. I plan to use the Motive 0108 bleeder. Where is the ABS module and how do I check if it's dry?
I sat in my car while the brake lines where off and instinctively put my foot on the brake pedal. I didn't press very hard, but it took me a second to realize my mistake and get off the pedal.
If my ABS module is dry, how can I fix it? Will the Motive 0108 bleeder take care of it?
Thanks for your help!
I am replacing my brake calipers and brake lines in my 1999 Firebird LS1 with ABS. I plan to use the Motive 0108 bleeder. Where is the ABS module and how do I check if it's dry?
I sat in my car while the brake lines where off and instinctively put my foot on the brake pedal. I didn't press very hard, but it took me a second to realize my mistake and get off the pedal.
If my ABS module is dry, how can I fix it? Will the Motive 0108 bleeder take care of it?
Thanks for your help!