BlackedOut LS1

iTrader: (4)

You Texas guys never fail me so I'm back with more situations for you.....Before I drop my fuel tank to try and figure out why my fuel pump is getting no power I've put a test light on my upgraded wire harness. I basically think its a bad relay after not getting a light between the relay and the fuel pump. My next step is to hook up the factory wiring back up forgoing the racetronix harness to make sure the pump works. Here's where things get interesting and scary. After contacting RaceTronix about their harness and Aeromotive about their pump I get an email back from the senior tech at Aeromotive. He stated that he hoped my application was not a camaro/firebird and that Aeromotive does not recommend the 340 bc the electrical bulkhead is a weak point in these cars the top hat could melt and could produce a "CATASTROPHIC FAILURE". This is a pump that Futral Motorsports sold me, and Ive forwarded them the email Friday. What should I do fellaz?

imma_stocker

iTrader: (19)

"Aeromotive does not recommend the 340 bc the electrical bulkhead is a weak point in these cars the top hat could melt "

Did the rep explain what happens? There are some 450-500whp imports running these pumps as a single, plugged in with factory wiring. He may be referring to the weak factory wiring. Are you running a single 340 pump or dual in-tank?

BlackedOut LS1

iTrader: (4)

I have a single pump, the inline fuse on the racetronix harness blew once, replaced and the car ran fine. Days later car wont start, pump seems to not be getting power. Im planning to switch back to the factory wiring so I can hopefully eliminate the pump as the problem. Can I upgrade the guage wiring in the bulk head?

codyvette

iTrader: (24)

It's probably not the gauge wire as much as the little connectors and the inability to stay tight.

imma_stocker

iTrader: (19)

First verify everything is hooked up right and the fuse is correct amperage for that pump. 15 amps at 60psi, 19 amps at 90psi.

The wiring into the pump hanger should be upgraded, 10awg will provide plenty of current. Be sure to use GASOLINE E85 compatible wires, the typical vinyl wrap will dissolve in the tank. Also SOLDER the connections and seal with compatible shrink tube. If that won't work for you use weatherpack connectors compatible with fuel. The right parts are hard to find and cost more, but you need to find them.

Seal the new bulkhead with GOOP, it stays flexible enough to act as grommet and won't dissolve in fuel.

imma_stocker

iTrader: (19)

https://ls1tech.com/forums/fueling-i...r-upgrade.html

similar issue

Racetronix

iTrader: (2)

http://www.racetronix.biz/customkiti...=FPWK-017W&eq=

Bruser's LS1

iTrader: (20)

Sounds familiar to my friends 01 C5 we just fixed. He to was running a Aeromotive 340 with the same symptoms. After replacing 2 pumps within 2 months it was time for a change. He elected for a Walbro 255 and racetronix harness. Haven't had an issue since. Prior to the 255 install we traced wiring like crazy to ensure everything was good. We both work on weapon systems and electronics in the Navy, so it was natural we had to dig a little further. The one issue we saw, was a decrease in voltage from the relay to the pump. I believe 4 volts at the pump and 12 at the relay. However after removing the AM pump (which was dead in the car), we found it working properly connected directly to a 12 volt source. Before installing the new 255, we cleaned all the contacts from the PCM, Grounds, Relay, and at the pump. Once the new pump was in with the upgraded harness the car ran at a strong 14 volts. If you ask me personally, I think their is flaw somewhere causing an issue between the relay and the pump. Of course this is my own personal knowledge and experience or should I say....my .02

00pooterSS

iTrader: (40)

He was saying the top hat could melt and result in a fire aka catastrophic failure

and there's the fix

chrysler kid

iTrader: (14)

Even vendors view the texas section