Optispark/Ignition Question LTX Guys Whatup?!
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Optispark/Ignition Question LTX Guys Whatup?!
Okay so I know absolutley nothing about optispark or lt1 ignition. I've got a good deal being thrown at me for 96 Forumla that the man says has a fresh rebuild and it looks great. He says he is 99% sure that is the opti unit because he has power all the way to the coil and through the coil wire but no output out of the opti unit...What is the worst case scenario of problems and what does this sound like it could be?
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Thanks man...I don't have the car to look at it. Its a couple of hours away and I just wanted to see what types of issues the opti's and ignition typically cause on those motors. I was also made a point that the pcm could cause this problem. Is that correct?
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http://www.dynaspark.net/
Its $600, but with a new opti coming in at about $26 (and it working for an extended period of time being a gamble) its well worth it. Change it once and be done with it forever. Trust me, you want to make this purchase.
Its $600, but with a new opti coming in at about $26 (and it working for an extended period of time being a gamble) its well worth it. Change it once and be done with it forever. Trust me, you want to make this purchase.
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The Dynaspark is on backorder and no one knows when they will be making more. Not even the Dynaspark people themselves! I asked all the sponsors that carry them and they are upset with Dynaspark also. Check this out http://web.camaross.com/forums/showthread.php?t=527656
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I just replaced my stock unit with an MSD one, yeah it's a $500 opti unit, but it's a sealed unit and everyone that has them are happy with their purchase, your cheaper option is pretty simple, the problems with the GM opti lie in the rotor and cap, most guys here as well as many others around the counrty go this route and have had great results, go with a stock replacement GM Opti, and replace the stock cap and rotor with an MSD cap and rotor kit, it's more durable and the MSD kit comes with the hardware to make it a sealed unit thus less problemmatic, even that route is gonna run about $400, still a good way to go.
#10
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dont waste money on that...ive had a stock opti from gm for thousands of miles with 7000rpm shift points and rotor in still working like a champ....exspecially if your selling the car just post up looking for a rotor...wait until youpull it apart, then post up youll find one i got mine for about 25 shipped
#11
Originally Posted by daniel6718
dont waste money on that...ive had a stock opti from gm for thousands of miles with 7000rpm shift points and rotor in still working like a champ....exspecially if your selling the car just post up looking for a rotor...wait until youpull it apart, then post up youll find one i got mine for about 25 shipped
For the record Dynaspark uses a stock gm opti cap/rotor with their billet base and still uses gm's Mitsubishi eye sensor on the pickup wheel and gm bearing. MSD's new unit uses a re-designed high speed bearing, different pickup eye sensor, better die-lectric compound on the cap/rotor but still overpriced IMO.
Take you couple hours to replace or find someone who will help you replace it.
#12
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Optisparks have a bad reputation. When one goes bad, it's posted all over the net. One always hears the horror stories, but never about something that works.
The LT1 has been put in hundreds of thousands of cars, from Buicks to Z28s.
I have an old Opti in my race car and have zero complaints. When if finally dies, I'll get another GM unit and be on my way.
Many (most) of the issues with an Opti is when the owner does a camshaft change and uses the wrong length dowel pin on the Opti drive. The aftermarket pin pushes against the relucter wheel and housing and throws the rotating geometry off. Kind of like what happens to the axle housing when you wun a bent axle.
The other issues are due to moisture, A 96 will have a vented Opti, so those problem are minimized.
Exchanging the Opti is a lot of fun.
Remove the outer balancer ring.
Remove the water pump (keep up with that collar)
Remove the wires (label them well)
Remove the Opti
Align the Opti and swing it into place (yes, you just screwed up the seal and it will leak oil)
reinstall watter pump (yes, put some sort of sealer on all the bolts as they go into the water jackets)
Reinstall wires (yes, having very small hands makes it easier)
reinstall the balancer
fill with water (yes, the vent is right above Opti, allowing hot water and vapor to drench an already susceptible Opti)
The LT1 has been put in hundreds of thousands of cars, from Buicks to Z28s.
I have an old Opti in my race car and have zero complaints. When if finally dies, I'll get another GM unit and be on my way.
Many (most) of the issues with an Opti is when the owner does a camshaft change and uses the wrong length dowel pin on the Opti drive. The aftermarket pin pushes against the relucter wheel and housing and throws the rotating geometry off. Kind of like what happens to the axle housing when you wun a bent axle.
The other issues are due to moisture, A 96 will have a vented Opti, so those problem are minimized.
Exchanging the Opti is a lot of fun.
Remove the outer balancer ring.
Remove the water pump (keep up with that collar)
Remove the wires (label them well)
Remove the Opti
Align the Opti and swing it into place (yes, you just screwed up the seal and it will leak oil)
reinstall watter pump (yes, put some sort of sealer on all the bolts as they go into the water jackets)
Reinstall wires (yes, having very small hands makes it easier)
reinstall the balancer
fill with water (yes, the vent is right above Opti, allowing hot water and vapor to drench an already susceptible Opti)