u-coat-it garage coating
My opinion a must have. Especially on new concrete. It's easy to do and makes cleaning up soooo much easier. Yeah you can scratch it but once you sweep, mop, and a bunch of use it all just blends together. You can also stain it. Oil really doesn't as it will wipe up but I've had a grass clippings off a mower stain it and rust rings from a metal can do it also. Of course I really havn't tried to clean the spots all that well.
I was talked into the Quick-Crete 2 part epoxy floor coating by my brother. For the 3 car garage I used almost 3 complete packages for a total around 280$ + 1.5 full days of work. It took an hour to clean most dirt out of the garage, + another hour and a half to clean out any leftover dust with a push broom and a pressure washer. I then spent about 2 hours etching the cement with the supplied etch. Spent another hour with the pressure washer and pushbroom removing the excess etching. after that I waited a full day for the garage to dry.
I then applied it with 1 other person which only took about 2 hours . There has been minimal lift, I think better prep work would have solved this problem. As far as hot tire pickup, there is none. Ive had my friend leave tread marks in my garage trying to drive his car onto some blocks of wood. After some mopping, all the marks went away.
Jack stands WILL scratch it up though, which I why I plan on doing some touch up every other year or so.
I then applied it with 1 other person which only took about 2 hours . There has been minimal lift, I think better prep work would have solved this problem. As far as hot tire pickup, there is none. Ive had my friend leave tread marks in my garage trying to drive his car onto some blocks of wood. After some mopping, all the marks went away.
Jack stands WILL scratch it up though, which I why I plan on doing some touch up every other year or so.
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I always considered doing this in my garage but have been intimidated by the prep work. And from my understanding, it's the lack of prep work that can kill you in the long run.
We use it in my shop.Been 6 months and nothing has hurt it.No peeling from hot tires,no scratching from dragging everything across it from jacks to floor stands.
Prep is the biggest thing.We acid washed the floor twice.First coat got sucked into the concrete,then did the 2nd coat followed by the clearcoat.Took a weekend to finish with 3 guy's and did 2400 sq/ft.
Prep is the biggest thing.We acid washed the floor twice.First coat got sucked into the concrete,then did the 2nd coat followed by the clearcoat.Took a weekend to finish with 3 guy's and did 2400 sq/ft.
its an industrial strength 2 part solvent epoxy, it smells horrible but if you prep it right it aint coming up. its basically the closest thing you can get to the commerical stuff i was told by a guy who does it for a living. another prep thing if your floor is really bad is to rent a floor sander, itll take the **** up and give the epoxy something to bite into. 
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formerly twolow02fransen (2014-1-2)
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From: mASSHOLE
There is really no miracle product. Alot of it is in the prep work. The rusteloum(Professional) is a 2 part solvent based deal that is pretty inexpensive and seems to work well.
its no different than painting. like phil99vette said, good prep is key. ive seen pro jobs done with questionable prep and the home depot behr/rusto/quickcrete with good prep and the cheap stuff lasted and the pro stuff didnt. sweep the floor, sweep it again, power wash it, etch it then power wash it again and then you can start to think about etching it one last time if it needs it. its a real pain in the *** but you save more time doing it right the first time. also if your going to be dragging stuff on the floor or having a car on it, dont bother with the single part water based epoxy. its good for walking on but thats about it.
I did u coat it over the summer and it looks really nice.As said prep is key also if your floor sweats during the season with weather change i would not reccomend coating the floor at all peeling will happen no matter what product or prep job.Moisture will push the product off the floor.Plus side is very easy cleanup on oil spllls or any other solvents.Down side is if you do any kind of grinding and if the shavings get wet it will leave nasty rust marks on the floor and will have to be cleaned off with iron out.Also make sure you put some grippy sprinkes down, my floor is extra slick when you walk in with wet shoes.
I have an epoxy coat on the floor of my garage which we did last year.
We prepped it according to the instructions (floor sander, wash, acid etch, ect.) and its held up pretty well. There have been a few spots where is has chipped or cracked, but overall its been good. A small bubble did come up in the middle of the floor recently, not sure why that is.
As far as the ease of cleanup and working on the coated floor, its excellent. Everthing wipes up with some Simple Green and a paper towel, and its makes the garage much better looking.
The only problem we had was with wet traction. When you spill water (or other liquids) on the floor, its like ice. If you are walking quickly and step on it, chances are you're going down hard. So we put a final coat on with some of the traction additive, which fixes the slippage issue, but makes the floor very rough for moving jacks or cleaning up. So its a tradeoff.
We prepped it according to the instructions (floor sander, wash, acid etch, ect.) and its held up pretty well. There have been a few spots where is has chipped or cracked, but overall its been good. A small bubble did come up in the middle of the floor recently, not sure why that is.
As far as the ease of cleanup and working on the coated floor, its excellent. Everthing wipes up with some Simple Green and a paper towel, and its makes the garage much better looking.
The only problem we had was with wet traction. When you spill water (or other liquids) on the floor, its like ice. If you are walking quickly and step on it, chances are you're going down hard. So we put a final coat on with some of the traction additive, which fixes the slippage issue, but makes the floor very rough for moving jacks or cleaning up. So its a tradeoff.
missed this. . .
Did my own floor over a 3 day period shifting toys around alot as you'll see. Cost a total of about $120 start to finish including the little flakes for decoration and a double shot of clear and the muratic (how ever its spelled) acid for prior etching.
Did my own floor over a 3 day period shifting toys around alot as you'll see. Cost a total of about $120 start to finish including the little flakes for decoration and a double shot of clear and the muratic (how ever its spelled) acid for prior etching.