Has anyone made a bubble flare end using their double flare tool?
06-15-2009, 06:23 AM
#1
Has anyone made a bubble flare end using their double flare tool? I read somewhere that it can be done, so I practiced with a piece of scrap line. It appears to be the same, flat on the back where the male part fits up against it, angled on the part that slips into the female fitting.
I am concerned b/c this is a brake line, and I don't want my brakes going out at over a ton.
I can purchase a bubble flare tool for ~$31 which should do the trick exactly, but is it really necessary?
Thanks in advance.
I am concerned b/c this is a brake line, and I don't want my brakes going out at over a ton.
I can purchase a bubble flare tool for ~$31 which should do the trick exactly, but is it really necessary?
Thanks in advance.
06-19-2009, 05:51 AM
#4
Actually, it will in a pinch. I purchased a bubble flaring tool and made one. Then I compared the two, and they were very similar. But there are a couple of things you must do to make it work.
No, the line I was working on went from the ABS block on the driver's side, down to the k-member, across to the passenger's side front disc brake. I probably would have had to drop the k-member to remove and install it.
No, the line I was working on went from the ABS block on the driver's side, down to the k-member, across to the passenger's side front disc brake. I probably would have had to drop the k-member to remove and install it.
06-19-2009, 09:57 AM
#6
So, here are my findings:
First, if you have the time and the funds, get the ISO bubble flare tool. I purchased one from Summit and it works just fine.
Second, if you don't have the time and/or the funds, you can use a double flare tool and achieve results that are very similar.
The bubble flare has 3 distinctive characteristics
1) The back of the flare is flat.
2) The front of the flare has a 45 degree angle
3) The width of the flare is proportional to the diameter of the line. I only have a 3/16" line for my measurement, and the diameter of the factory flare is ~0.38" (I used a dial caliper for my measurements).
The single and double flare (made by the same tool) have one common characteristic: The back of the flare is angled.
I examined the flaring bar and found that one side has an angle built into it, but the other side is flat. I used the flat side in my experiments, varying the length of the tubing extending out of the flaring bar, and found that I could make an almost exact duplicate of the ISO bubble flare. It has the flat back and the 45 degree front. The only thing it does not have is the exact inner diameter of the tubing, which the ISO bubble flare tool forces with its center extension.
The ISO tool comes with a depth measuring tool for setting the length of tubing extending from the flaring bar. It appears to be ~0.23" for all diameters of tubing.
YMMV, and I am certainly not promoting using other than the prefered tool for the job. But if you were stuck like I was with no one knowing what a bubble flare is, much less stocking the proper tool, you can get back on the road in a pinch.
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06-19-2009, 02:57 PM
#8
Actually, I am. Glad you understood the reference. I always travel with a towel in my trunk, you never know.
YVW on the info also. I found several references to "you can do it" but no one ever said how to do it or how close it would be. Helps to have a dial caliper laying around, of course.
YVW on the info also. I found several references to "you can do it" but no one ever said how to do it or how close it would be. Helps to have a dial caliper laying around, of course.
06-19-2009, 08:43 PM
#10
To answer your question, yes it CAN work, but is not a good Idea.. I tooled around with what you described in the past, when I was 17-18. Some held, some didnt. Best to get the proper tool. I now have a mastercool hydraulic flare tool that does everything from single/double/bubble, to an's, push connects and o ring seals..... worth its weight in gold, especially on stainless line.
06-20-2009, 06:58 AM
#11
The Mastercool is a fantastic unit. So is its price, at $350 retail. Since I have done 3 flares total, 1 bubble & 2 double, that would have put me at $117/flare. Although I did find it for $275 by surfing around.
But if I did it for a living, I would have one, to be sure.
And I agree, use the proper tool if it is available.
But if I did it for a living, I would have one, to be sure.
And I agree, use the proper tool if it is available.
06-20-2009, 08:40 PM
#12
I use the kd flaring tool.it worked the 1st time after that I was having a hardtime doin the rest.doin the sjm delete kit on both cars btw.I purchase the 3482 bubble flaring tool from Napa for $108bux and worked like a charm.thought was kind of pricey guess it was worth it.just waitin on my other kit for the install and use it again.
06-20-2009, 09:00 PM
#13
I think this is a case of you get what you pay for. I saw a video of the Mastercool setup, very easy to use with excellent results. When I went to NAPA, they knew what a bubble flare was, but had no idea where I could get such a tool. Sigh.
06-24-2009, 02:53 AM
#16
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Great info.
So, since there is so much experience in here...does anyone know all of the proper fitting sizes for the brake lines?
(Not trying to hijack...just trying to get as much info in onethread as possible
)
So, since there is so much experience in here...does anyone know all of the proper fitting sizes for the brake lines?
(Not trying to hijack...just trying to get as much info in onethread as possible
) 
01-02-2010, 03:20 PM
#18
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Just joined up to reply to this question.
The short answer is it depends on the double flaring kit in question. It's all in the design of the dies they give you that determine whether it will work or not. I have a craftsman set costing over $100 that will not do it and a less expensive one I bought from Advanced Auto (about $30) that will. NEITHER made mention of whether or not they could make bubbles.
The vehicle I made the flares on I ran a several years after the repair and they NEVER EVER leaked.
The Advanced kit I have was cheap and came with a lifetime warranty too boot. The trick to using it is only flare it ONCE with the die, not twice. Also have a genuine finished bubble flare to compare your results to (like the old one you're replacing). The kit may've changed since I bought it, but doesn't hurt to try it and you can always bring it back if the end product doesn't look right to you. Don't get talked into believing you need a pricey kit from one of the big boys to do this.
The short answer is it depends on the double flaring kit in question. It's all in the design of the dies they give you that determine whether it will work or not. I have a craftsman set costing over $100 that will not do it and a less expensive one I bought from Advanced Auto (about $30) that will. NEITHER made mention of whether or not they could make bubbles.
The vehicle I made the flares on I ran a several years after the repair and they NEVER EVER leaked.
The Advanced kit I have was cheap and came with a lifetime warranty too boot. The trick to using it is only flare it ONCE with the die, not twice. Also have a genuine finished bubble flare to compare your results to (like the old one you're replacing). The kit may've changed since I bought it, but doesn't hurt to try it and you can always bring it back if the end product doesn't look right to you. Don't get talked into believing you need a pricey kit from one of the big boys to do this.
01-03-2010, 05:30 PM
#20
I have been doing it for YEARS. All you have to do is experiment with the amount of pertrusion when you tighten up the vice. I have been doing all types of line in the 47 years i have been building cars. It works and all you have to do is determin the size of the bubble you need. Like i said just mess with the pertrusion.
