the_merv

iTrader: (88)

Has anyone seen a plate that you can bolts to where the Valley Cover goes and use it to pull/lift the engine?

I was just wondering.. I'm about to put my engine back in soon and it would help..

highwaystar

iTrader: (7)

Yep, Car Shop and a few other sponsers have them

RARON455

iTrader: (35)

QTP makes one to.

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

I actually made one earlier today out of some steel I had laying around. I just need some Grade 8 Bolts and I'm good.


The holes aren't drilled yet, but you get the idea..

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

weld looks a little cold No, seriously, your weld looks a little cold You wouldnt need that plate if you took the motor out from the bottom

daniel6718

iTrader: (36)

bottom ftw...dont have to pull tranny or wire harness or headers or accessories

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

K..even if you pulled it from the bottom this little thing will help get it off the K-member with the Cherry Picker..think outside the box fellas..

A friend of mine welded it..it works.

NemeSS

iTrader: (127)

if u gonna pull out the bottom, might as well swap in a tubular kmember while your there.
i have always pulled it out the top with hood in place and with trans attached.

merv, i made one like the one u made, but i had the plates made on a cnc waterjet. with a dust shield also, but i dont think there is a market for them.
qtp and other alredy make similar designs

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

The QTP-10100 is about $53, 1/4" stainless steel.

Phoenix 5.7

iTrader: (7)

not the best, but i cut the knock sensor tubes off of a spar valley plate and used that for my last engine swap

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

^^I'm suprised that Cast Aluminum didn't break.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Me too, cast aluminum is weak ****

hookemdevils22

iTrader: (12)

like this? 1/4" plate steel. The base is 18.5" x 6", and the vertical plate is 12" x 2.5" with three 1.5" holes. I used the valley cover to mark the bolt holes and drilled them slightly oversized. Note that you have to remove the cam sensor unless you grind it down in the back. $14 for the steel plus weld time, or free if you have some scrap metal chillin' at the shop.

Big_Bird_WS6

iTrader: (7)

i got two laying around. 55 shipped. made out a stainless.

Big_Bird_WS6

iTrader: (7)

for pulling them out the top. i made one with a leveler bar on it. all out of a water jet. and 1/4" stainless. works great.

tittan1500

iTrader: (8)

I used the TPIS happy hooker. It worked good and the motor slid right into my trans am.


it has a bend it the lifting hook that helps get past the cowil on the 4th gen cars.


http://www.tpis.com/index.php?module...y=Happy+Hooker

serpentnoir

iTrader: (2)

I worked once. doesn't mean it won't break the next time.

You couldn't pay me enough to stand under it. Those welds are horrible. Find someone else to do your welding...

rtpassini

is that the only way to take out the engine with a cherry picker?
seems like a lot of work to get that bolted on (but i have never done it so what do i know. haha)

73 nova guy

iTrader: (8)

here are the two i built..





one out of 1/4 aluminum

rao

iTrader: (18)

Not pretty, but it works.