Custom Exhaust Welding
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I am kicking around the idea of attempting a little custom exhaust work. I'm in no way a master welder, but I'm not bad. I do however want to do all my welding off the car and make this a bolt on system. This is where I need help.
What do I need to use when it comes to connecting. say, the Y-pipe to the cat, or the cat to the back end of the system. I've found these.
![](http://www.v6f-body.com/pics/ball%20flange.jpg)
A ball flange. Not sure if this is over kill. I found these at Flowmaster, but they were kind of expensive.
![](http://www.v6f-body.com/pics/ball%20flange%202.JPG)
Here was another kind of ball flange I was looking into.
![](http://www.v6f-body.com/pics/v%20bands.JPG)
Found these V Band clamps that look like they could be welded in and clamped together.
![](http://www.v6f-body.com/pics/flanges.JPG)
Or am I just completely over thinking this and all that needs to be done is weld one of these on each pipe and bolt them together?
To anyone with exhaust experience who would wish to give me some advise on this, it would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
What do I need to use when it comes to connecting. say, the Y-pipe to the cat, or the cat to the back end of the system. I've found these.
![](http://www.v6f-body.com/pics/ball%20flange.jpg)
A ball flange. Not sure if this is over kill. I found these at Flowmaster, but they were kind of expensive.
Here was another kind of ball flange I was looking into.
Found these V Band clamps that look like they could be welded in and clamped together.
Or am I just completely over thinking this and all that needs to be done is weld one of these on each pipe and bolt them together?
To anyone with exhaust experience who would wish to give me some advise on this, it would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
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not once you get the hang of it lol.
read up on it a little or PM me or we will spend days in your thread on this...
All I do is SS, food grade processing plants are all SS tube
Do you have just a regular DC TIG machine that will crank out 60amps? If so you're
good to go
edit: You'll need more than 60 to do bracketry and what not but for doing that tube I wouldnt use more than 50 but
thats on a maxstar miller, might be different depending on your machine
read up on it a little or PM me or we will spend days in your thread on this...
All I do is SS, food grade processing plants are all SS tube
Do you have just a regular DC TIG machine that will crank out 60amps? If so you're
good to go
edit: You'll need more than 60 to do bracketry and what not but for doing that tube I wouldnt use more than 50 but
thats on a maxstar miller, might be different depending on your machine
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I have a POS 115V Lincoln MIG with gas.
I'm only doing pipes. It claims 30-125 amp, but I'm sure it's a very low duty cycle. Seems to do normal steel pipes fine.
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Last edited by Bonemaro2; 01-08-2010 at 09:09 PM.
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ok well man we're out of my field when it comes to the 110 MIG, sorry all I've ever used are DC TIG to do SS tube.
I can give you BS internet welder advice but there are plenty of guys on here that do
exhaust with those lil 110 MIGs all day so listen to them and buy a damn TIG already lol
I can give you BS internet welder advice but there are plenty of guys on here that do
exhaust with those lil 110 MIGs all day so listen to them and buy a damn TIG already lol
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I have made several true dual systems. My opinion is this.....Flat flanges are a pain in the ***, plus you have gaskets that need to be periodically replaced. I have had ball and socket type flanges on headers and they worked good for me but I here lots of people complaining that they leak over time. If I was you, I would weld up the whole system solid, Except, one or two strategic places. These places would allow you to drop the whole system very quickly if needed. To connect these sections, I would use the stainless walker clamps like this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/WLK-3...Q5fAccessories
You can buy a tailpipe expander and make your own slip joints and use the lap style clamp like I linked. Or just butt the two pipes up to each other and use the butt style clamps. These things are super easy and I havent had one problem with leaks. I will never **** with flanges again.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/WLK-3...Q5fAccessories
You can buy a tailpipe expander and make your own slip joints and use the lap style clamp like I linked. Or just butt the two pipes up to each other and use the butt style clamps. These things are super easy and I havent had one problem with leaks. I will never **** with flanges again.
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Ok, I see. That looks like it might work and be cost effective. Most of the system is welded up. My goal here is to be able to quickly change between the catalytic converter and a straight pipe.
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If you are gonna be working under there anyway, you could make a removeable joint before the rear end to aid in exhaust removal if you dont already have one. As far as for cat delete pipes on factory manifolds, Im not sure if those band clamps will work for that application.
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i love v-bands for this type of stuff, just make sure you have a half way decent cut on the pipe.
for your 110v welder, i have used IIRC 308 or 309 wire on a 2 pound spool for my 110v mig without any problems. PM sent...
for your 110v welder, i have used IIRC 308 or 309 wire on a 2 pound spool for my 110v mig without any problems. PM sent...
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I built a custom true dual setup on my car and used the flowmaster ball flanges, the first picture in your post, I love them they are by far the easiest to install and very easy to connect up and remove the exhaust system, plus no leaks. I also used dynomax slip fit band clamps for my over the axle pipes. I can remove my entire exhaust system in about 5 minutes
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keep in mind v bands aren't forgiving if you don't have a flex joint. if you don't make sure its all welded up perfect you have no adjustment like a ball flange or any telescoping effect like a slip joint. and most beginners warp v bands when they weld em.