Garage Floor Epoxy
Staging Lane
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 92
Likes: 0
From: Souther Minnesota
I have been looking for my garage and my shop but the people that I have talked to always change the product they carry because of an issue with product so I have not pulled the trigger yet I can't imagine if they won't sell the same product for more than 2 years that the warranty would be very good.
I did find that polishing the concrete is an option but not do it yourself as you are looking for. I was told to check out flooring in home depot they have the floors polished for the safety and anti slip
I did find that polishing the concrete is an option but not do it yourself as you are looking for. I was told to check out flooring in home depot they have the floors polished for the safety and anti slip
I've used a few of the Home Depot kits and they all work well. The only problem I have is that it has to be done every five or so years. I did my aunts house about five years ago and it's starting to fade a bit. There is a lot of traffic in and out of the garage though. For mine I think I am going to double up on the coats and see how that turns out. Or I might try one of the industrial kits and see how those work out.
garagejournal.com
Many helpful links & threads.
Prep is the key.
We've used many different brands. (Side business for us.)
Some of them are not for the DIY'er.
What's the base?
Sealed?
Older?
New pad?
Couple sample photos of our floors.
Full 1/4" Chip, Wolverine product. Not recommended for a newbie.
Both together to get an idea of the difference.
Rustoleum product, used on a new floor, about 10years ago.
Looks as good now as it did when it was done.
Access to a local rental business who may have a power grinder?
Many helpful links & threads.
Prep is the key.
We've used many different brands. (Side business for us.)
Some of them are not for the DIY'er.
What's the base?
Sealed?
Older?
New pad?
Couple sample photos of our floors.
Full 1/4" Chip, Wolverine product. Not recommended for a newbie.
Both together to get an idea of the difference.
Rustoleum product, used on a new floor, about 10years ago.
Looks as good now as it did when it was done.
Access to a local rental business who may have a power grinder?
Last edited by PontiacFan; Jul 25, 2011 at 01:48 PM.
Thread Starter
Tin Foil Hat Wearin' Fool
iTrader: (36)
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 23,027
Likes: 0
From: Austin, TX
Im in constructino by trade so I have access if need be to a diamond wheel or concrete scorer. I planned on using an orbital scorer that some of my subs use to grind down high concrete to give it a rough finish then use some muratic acid from a concrete batch plant to etch it then use one of the DIY kits for the actual epoxy just didnt know which one is the best. I like the look of the behr brand stuff but it seems some people havent had great luck with it.
Grind or etch.
Shouldn't have to do both.
Do you know if the floor currently has a sealer on it?
Water test. If it soaks in, then no. If it beads up or doesn't soak in, then the acid etch or grind will be necessary.
Granted, the 'large' grinder may not get all the way into the corners & edges.
Which is where the acid etch comes in handy.
After either process, wash/rinse it, rinse it, & rinse it again.
A rough surface isn't necessarily what you're looking for either tho.
If you 'grind' or 'score' lines into it, or high/low spots, you may be able to see them afterwards because the epoxy will not act like a 'self-leveling' product.
If you rent a grinder, make sure you get the vacuum also, or do it wet.
Shouldn't have to do both.
Do you know if the floor currently has a sealer on it?
Water test. If it soaks in, then no. If it beads up or doesn't soak in, then the acid etch or grind will be necessary.
Granted, the 'large' grinder may not get all the way into the corners & edges.
Which is where the acid etch comes in handy.
After either process, wash/rinse it, rinse it, & rinse it again.
A rough surface isn't necessarily what you're looking for either tho.
If you 'grind' or 'score' lines into it, or high/low spots, you may be able to see them afterwards because the epoxy will not act like a 'self-leveling' product.
If you rent a grinder, make sure you get the vacuum also, or do it wet.
Thread Starter
Tin Foil Hat Wearin' Fool
iTrader: (36)
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 23,027
Likes: 0
From: Austin, TX
The grinder is about the size of a concrete trowel machine so it wont get really close to the corners but should be enough that I could score the rest of it by hand. Just figured doing both would give me the best chance of it lasting. As with most stuff like this prep work Im sure is very important. What brand epoxy seems to work the best?
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That's still a "Coke or Pepsi" type question tho & can't be answered directly except with an opinion answer. I prefer Mountain Dew.
Read the "Flooring" forum on the Garage Journal website.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/index.php
Read the "Flooring" forum on the Garage Journal website.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/index.php
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Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 24,241
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From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
Can you do any of them if you just power wash the dirty concrete and apply straight over that? My slab is only about 2 years old but has a bunch of stains from motor swaps and stuff. I would love to coat it but hate the thought of cleaning it back to new again just to "paint" it.
Can you do any of them if you just power wash the dirty concrete and apply straight over that? My slab is only about 2 years old but has a bunch of stains from motor swaps and stuff. I would love to coat it but hate the thought of cleaning it back to new again just to "paint" it.
Pour a couple tablespoons or more, of water on the floor in different areas & see if it soaks in, or if it stays 'on top'.
If it soaks in, it probably doesn't have a sealer on it & should be able to simply clean it really well & apply the coating.
If it doesn't soak in, the minimum you should do would be the acid wash, then rinse & rinse again.
And of course, clean the bad spots really, really well, so you can get some good adhesion.
Simple 'floor paint' is NOT recommended. Do NOT buy 'paint'. It will not adhere well &/or last very long.
