DIY oil priming under $20
08-11-2013, 08:11 PM
#1
Staging Lane
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DIY oil priming under $20 So I know that the 'proper' way to do this is via a $400+ specialty pump from GM. I also know a lot of guys just pull the fuel pump fuse and crank away. But the cranking wasn't working for me and after a few cranks i didnt trust that there was still assembly oil on the bearings. so I found an alternate route.....
I picked up a drill powered oil/fuel pump from harbor freight, four feet of 3/4 inch hose and two hose clamps.
I removed the oil filter and clamped the hose to the threaded neck for the filter and then to the output of the pump. I didn't bother clamping the inlet hose since it was a snug fit and not under pressure. I then put the inlet end of the hose into a 5 gallon jug of new oil and spun away. Within a few seconds I had a solid 45 psi of oil pressure at the factory pressure port. After pumping a few quarts in I gave the motor a quick crank with the fuses pulled then pumped another quart in for good measure.
http://www.harborfreight.com/heavy-d...ump-98384.html
For being a harbor freight pump it did really well. I just kept it at a steady 45 psi, but at full speed it would pump around 60 psi. It also came witH everything needed to rebuild it, so I will probably keep this around for future use.
Hope this helps someone out.
I picked up a drill powered oil/fuel pump from harbor freight, four feet of 3/4 inch hose and two hose clamps.
I removed the oil filter and clamped the hose to the threaded neck for the filter and then to the output of the pump. I didn't bother clamping the inlet hose since it was a snug fit and not under pressure. I then put the inlet end of the hose into a 5 gallon jug of new oil and spun away. Within a few seconds I had a solid 45 psi of oil pressure at the factory pressure port. After pumping a few quarts in I gave the motor a quick crank with the fuses pulled then pumped another quart in for good measure.
http://www.harborfreight.com/heavy-d...ump-98384.html
For being a harbor freight pump it did really well. I just kept it at a steady 45 psi, but at full speed it would pump around 60 psi. It also came witH everything needed to rebuild it, so I will probably keep this around for future use.
Hope this helps someone out.
08-12-2013, 06:51 AM
#2
Using the oil filter mount is a good idea. I would of used the HF pump until I got oil coming from all the pushrods. Thanks for sharing
08-12-2013, 07:07 AM
#3
Staging Lane
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Thats a good idea also. I figured three quarts at 45 psi would be enough to at least lube my main and rod bearings that were assembled with a thin assembly lube. The pushrods have break in lube on them which is super tacky and will take a while to wear off.
08-16-2013, 10:04 PM
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Wow, that's useful! Last time I got ready to get started, I rented an oil priming tool. This should be significantly cheaper, and looks like it'll work just as well.
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06-29-2014, 06:09 AM
#8
I know if you hook the oil feed kline to the oil galley plug on the drivers' front, you'll get ALOT of oil back flowing out the pick up. This will cause you to constantly drain your oil back into your priming pail or container. I was never able to use the port above the oil filter like the Carcraft article did. I also tried it on the port on the back of the intake manifold. Much less back flow. But even slower to get full push rod flow.
I prefer the intake manifold port as you don't loose any oil upon removal. Hence you don't reintroduce any air back into the oil passages. (at least a lot less)
I prefer the intake manifold port as you don't loose any oil upon removal. Hence you don't reintroduce any air back into the oil passages. (at least a lot less)
Last edited by Jimbo1367; 09-14-2023 at 02:09 PM.
06-29-2014, 12:02 PM
#9
I know if you hook the oilseed line to the oil galley plug on the drivers' front, you'll get ALOT of oil back flowing out the pick up. This will cause you to constantly drain your oil back into your priming pail or container. I was never able to use the port above the oil filter like the Carcraft article did. I also tried it on the port on the back of the intake manifold. Much less back flow. But even slower to get full push rod flow.
I prefer the intake manifold port as you don't loose any oil upon removal. Hence you don't reintroduce any air back into the oil passages. (at least a lot less)
I prefer the intake manifold port as you don't loose any oil upon removal. Hence you don't reintroduce any air back into the oil passages. (at least a lot less)
Tipsy
07-07-2014, 12:06 PM
#10
NEver thought about that.
