Finding a "real" hot tank?
Finding a "real" hot tank? I bought an old Parker vise and wanted to have it stripped. I drove to my local machine shop and was told that his hot tank has nothing more than hot soapy water and if soaked, the vise would emerge just as rusty and with no paint stripped. He said EPA restrictions make it too costly to use caustic chemicals in the hot tank.
I drove to a radiator shop and was told they don't even have a hot tank any longer for the same reason as above. He suggested I try a transmission shop. I did, and received yet again the same explanation.
In the end I was referred to a metal fabrication shop that had a tank but it was effectively just soapy water (at room temperature, since the heating element was inop) but they let it soak or several weeks while I was traveling and then blasted it with aluminum oxide (a mild abrasive).
Curious to hear what others have experienced?
Tipsy
I drove to a radiator shop and was told they don't even have a hot tank any longer for the same reason as above. He suggested I try a transmission shop. I did, and received yet again the same explanation.
In the end I was referred to a metal fabrication shop that had a tank but it was effectively just soapy water (at room temperature, since the heating element was inop) but they let it soak or several weeks while I was traveling and then blasted it with aluminum oxide (a mild abrasive).
Curious to hear what others have experienced?
Tipsy
Alternate methods of de-rusting are what you might look into if it's the primary concern. Electrolysis is a DIY method, people use various commercial derusting liquid products or types of molasses and so on. Then use aircraft stripper to remove the old paint.
If you don't care about originality, or texture, a monument (gravestone) company or other places can sandblast things; obviously you'll want to cover threads or surfaces you want maintained as-is.
Baking soda blasting is a very unaggressive way to clean things, especially aluminum. Glass bead blasting can be far more aggressive; less so than sand.
I do wish the hot transmission cleaner got aluminum cleaner. It saves effort, at least.
Getting stuff clean is work, cost, and time.
If you don't care about originality, or texture, a monument (gravestone) company or other places can sandblast things; obviously you'll want to cover threads or surfaces you want maintained as-is.
Baking soda blasting is a very unaggressive way to clean things, especially aluminum. Glass bead blasting can be far more aggressive; less so than sand.
I do wish the hot transmission cleaner got aluminum cleaner. It saves effort, at least.
Getting stuff clean is work, cost, and time.
Thanks...the vise isn't really the point of my question. I'm curious if proper hot tanks are a thing of the past?
I last brought a SBC to a machine shop in NY 25 years ago and had all of the components tanked prior to machining. Everything came-out spotless.
If I were having any engine work done today, it seems I'd have better luck using a pressure washer in my driveway than to expect the machine shop to return to me spotless components.
Tipsy
I last brought a SBC to a machine shop in NY 25 years ago and had all of the components tanked prior to machining. Everything came-out spotless.
If I were having any engine work done today, it seems I'd have better luck using a pressure washer in my driveway than to expect the machine shop to return to me spotless components.
Tipsy
With most engines going aluminum "hot tanking" has became almost a thing of the past. EPA has also had a huge effect as well. Most shops now have a hot soapy solution that washes with pressure, then sometimes its bead blasted afterwards, just a note on the vice, i just restored one that was rusted shut, couldn't beat it open use a electrolysis bath then soak it in diesel fuel, after its apart bead blast and paint
Even 25 years ago, we had to glass-bead blast cast iron heads after coming out of an acid bath hot tank to get that "new" look.....that is, AFTER we used a steam cleaner in the driveway to knock off all the big, nasty greasy stuff. lol
Obviously, times have changed...but, IMHO, cleaning technology has come a long way. In my shop, I use a Renegade "aqueous parts washer"....basically a big dishwasher....and it does a GREAT job. The newer ultrasonic cleaners are even better. But none that I've EVER used were all that great at removing rust or discoloration. Media blasting was always the way to go in that regard.
Obviously, times have changed...but, IMHO, cleaning technology has come a long way. In my shop, I use a Renegade "aqueous parts washer"....basically a big dishwasher....and it does a GREAT job. The newer ultrasonic cleaners are even better. But none that I've EVER used were all that great at removing rust or discoloration. Media blasting was always the way to go in that regard.
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Hot tanks with caustic acid are a thing of the past. Good job EPA for once, that **** was nasty and still left the cast iron rusty.
Oven's followed by shot blasting is the norm around here.
Oven's followed by shot blasting is the norm around here.
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My machinist has a hot tank, that truly gets up to 190-200 degrees, but he uses a non-caustic cleaner, I forget what it is at this point.
It's nice because all he charges me to use it is $25 for the cost of heating the water.
It's nice because all he charges me to use it is $25 for the cost of heating the water.
Clr works awesome about 15-20 bux a gallon but can be reused i work at a radiator and auto repair shop whats been said about the epa and hot tanks is true. We use clr to clean nasty non replaceabl motorcycle snd car tanks the longer it sits the better but 24hrs does wonderstry and use the clr brand seems to work the best zep did not come close also dont try it on aluminum it oxidizes badly
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 728
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Look for local powdercoaters. Most use chemical strippers to strip automotive parts clean to save on bead blasting times. Benco is usually the supplier. I have some in garage. 15 minutes dipped in this stuff strips parts clean.
