My ultimate garage near completion
10-06-2004, 09:23 AM
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Staging Lane
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My ultimate garage near completion As it states in the title, my garage is near completion. It is a 2 car built in garage with 11' ceilings. I just installed 2 new electric circuits ( 1 10 amp & 1 20 amp) with over 20 outlets. Plumbed a 3/4" gas line to a new 45,000btu forced air heater. I am in the process of insulating the walls and ceiling. The best part is my latest purchase, a four post lift that I got used from a local shop going out of business. Now for the problem....I have a standard 7' garage door that doesn't allow me the clearance that I need in order to store a car on the lift with another car under it. I have the ceiling clearance to go up with the garage door but at this point, I am looking for the most cost effective method. A service guy recommended going from a 12" radius to a 32" radius. This would allow me to use my existing lift. Any thoughts or suggestions?
10-06-2004, 02:11 PM
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This picture highlights the problem I have...note the lack of clearance when the garage door is open. With the garage door closed, I can raise my camaro or the GTO in the picture high enough to walk under.
10-06-2004, 03:30 PM
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Nice garage!
Is there anything you could do with the thing the garage slides on (metal racks)? Can you get taller ones?
I guess you would have to raise the motor that pulls up the garage door too
Is there anything you could do with the thing the garage slides on (metal racks)? Can you get taller ones?
I guess you would have to raise the motor that pulls up the garage door too
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10-06-2004, 03:34 PM
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The problem with adding vertical length to the track is that the garage door lift is pulling horizontally the entire time. In other words, the door needs to go up but the opener is pulling it sideways. If you look at garage door tracking, the highest roller is already into the radius of the bend.
10-06-2004, 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by amazza76
The problem with adding vertical length to the track is that the garage door lift is pulling horizontally the entire time. In other words, the door needs to go up but the opener is pulling it sideways. If you look at garage door tracking, the highest roller is already into the radius of the bend.
10-06-2004, 04:54 PM
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I have the same door on house and my work shop.
But on my work shop my garage door guy suggested the larger radius to give me more height if I ever got a lift.
I measured both rails the larger radius gives me 8" more clearence from the bottom of the door to the floor when the door is raised.
The larger rails at the time of installation cost me an extra $35. To add after the fact I have no idea.
I also have an extra door panel for taller trucks which gives you more height.
I was also thinking when I do ever get my lift I would go with the longer model.
Dam that local shop didn't have two lifts to sell did they?
But on my work shop my garage door guy suggested the larger radius to give me more height if I ever got a lift.
I measured both rails the larger radius gives me 8" more clearence from the bottom of the door to the floor when the door is raised.
The larger rails at the time of installation cost me an extra $35. To add after the fact I have no idea.
I also have an extra door panel for taller trucks which gives you more height.
I was also thinking when I do ever get my lift I would go with the longer model.
Dam that local shop didn't have two lifts to sell did they?
Last edited by Rat_Fink; 10-06-2004 at 05:11 PM.
10-07-2004, 08:01 AM
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Instead of using a standard garage door why can't you use a roll up door like in some commercial applications. When its rolled up completely it might have a diameter of a 1 1/2' depending if you're garage door is the standard 16x7 or 16x8 or 16x9. Check out MENARDS they should be able to special order them for you if that will fit in the space you have available on the header board and above the garage door and the vehicle on the lift.
10-07-2004, 09:49 AM
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Originally Posted by 88SS LS1
Instead of using a standard garage door why can't you use a roll up door like in some commercial applications. When its rolled up completely it might have a diameter of a 1 1/2' depending if you're garage door is the standard 16x7 or 16x8 or 16x9. Check out MENARDS they should be able to special order them for you if that will fit in the space you have available on the header board and above the garage door and the vehicle on the lift.
10-07-2004, 10:07 AM
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Originally Posted by 2002 Trans Am
I thought the same thing, but it would stink because he spent all that money on that garage door setup
10-07-2004, 03:10 PM
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Thanks Amazza I think I want four post lift I'll be using it more for storage
than repair.
88SS You got my pictures confused with Amazza I don't think I'll have a clearence issue.
than repair.
Ya i saw that it had the windows in the garage, but if he wants to use the lift you gotta do what you gotta do. And that means getting rid of that garage door and putting in a roll up door, to put a vehicle on the lift and one under it.
10-09-2004, 10:20 AM
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If you are still considering ways to modify the doors for clearance, this might work...
reroute the door channels so they go higher before making the turn into the garage, and then add extensions to the doors themselves so that the attachment point for the pulling motor is as high as the top of the door channels. I dont mean adding leaves to make the door taller, just extensions with rollers attached on either side of the door. This would apply the motor pull at the right point, tho it would necessitate moving the motor higher and further back from the door as well.
I am rebuilding an 80 year old single car garage, and am doing the same thing to keep its only new hardware, the door...
(and to protect my budget a bit, just spent $35,000 on the rest of the house, garage gets the leftovers for now.)
reroute the door channels so they go higher before making the turn into the garage, and then add extensions to the doors themselves so that the attachment point for the pulling motor is as high as the top of the door channels. I dont mean adding leaves to make the door taller, just extensions with rollers attached on either side of the door. This would apply the motor pull at the right point, tho it would necessitate moving the motor higher and further back from the door as well.
I am rebuilding an 80 year old single car garage, and am doing the same thing to keep its only new hardware, the door...
(and to protect my budget a bit, just spent $35,000 on the rest of the house, garage gets the leftovers for now.)
10-09-2004, 10:40 AM
#17
Originally Posted by 88SS LS1
Ya i saw that it had the windows in the garage, but if he wants to use the lift you gotta do what you gotta do. And that means getting rid of that garage door and putting in a roll up door, to put a vehicle on the lift and one under it.
I have a ceiling hugger design door. Instead of planing out and going parallel to the floor, it angle up towards the ceiling.
With a roll up door, it is loud, can't seal really well, you can't put a door opener on it and it can only be locked from the outside.
10-10-2004, 08:39 AM
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Originally Posted by mitchntx
I have a ceiling hugger design door. Instead of planing out and going parallel to the floor, it angle up towards the ceiling.
With a roll up door, it is loud, can't seal really well, you can't put a door opener on it and it can only be locked from the outside.
With a roll up door, it is loud, can't seal really well, you can't put a door opener on it and it can only be locked from the outside.
10-11-2004, 12:00 AM
#20
FormerVendor
I had the same problem and recently had the garage door raised.
He extended the tracks up along the ceiling, and also raised the opener. In order for the existing opener to work, he had to add an additional section to the top of the garage door (in order to give it something to pull on).
At the same time, he also converted the door from a single spring to a dual spring setup.
I'm ordering a lift tomorrow now that I have enough clearance.
He extended the tracks up along the ceiling, and also raised the opener. In order for the existing opener to work, he had to add an additional section to the top of the garage door (in order to give it something to pull on).
At the same time, he also converted the door from a single spring to a dual spring setup.
I'm ordering a lift tomorrow now that I have enough clearance.