air compressors...
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air compressors... we just got into some painting, also other than car painting(beginners) and we are getting into buying a compressor, a good one. Does anyone have any clues up here?
want one with bearings...I'm posting this for my dad as he knows more about it but i'm up here on the forums.. lol. I will have more details tomorrow
want one with bearings...I'm posting this for my dad as he knows more about it but i'm up here on the forums.. lol. I will have more details tomorrow
1. What's your budget?
2. Do you have 220V available as a 30A circuit minimum?
If the budget is ~$800-$1100, you can get a pretty dang good compressor for that.
What I'd look for:
1) Gotta be oiled. Quieter, longer life. Oilless compressors stink.
2) Get the most CFM for your money. If you're painting, for most paint guns, you'll want a compressor that puts out a minimum of 13 cfm @ 90 psi. Horsepower and tank size take a back seat to CFM rating. That's all you should really care about. If you are comparing 2 compressors, and one is 10 cfm, the other 13, and they're the same price... the 13 is 30% better than the 10. Remember that.
3) Iron pump. No aluminum. The aluminum pumps are cheaper and not as durable.
4) I personally like 2-stage units, as it gives you a higher cycling pressure and more air in the tank (60 gallons at 150 psi is more air than 60 gallons at 120 psi). Your cycling pressure with a 2-stage will kick in at ~125-130 psi; for a single stage, it'll kick on at a lower ~95-100 psi. The higher you can keep the pressure, the more consistent your tools will work. I regulate to 120 psi on my painting drop (and then regulate down at the gun from there).
Go as big as you can afford, and as much electrical circuit as you have. A 5hp 220V compressor needs a minimum of a 30A breaker. A 7.5 hp needs a 50A breaker.
Most 120V compressors lie about their hp ratings. 5 amps per horsepower at 220V, 10 amps per horsepower at 120.
2. Do you have 220V available as a 30A circuit minimum?
If the budget is ~$800-$1100, you can get a pretty dang good compressor for that.
What I'd look for:
1) Gotta be oiled. Quieter, longer life. Oilless compressors stink.
2) Get the most CFM for your money. If you're painting, for most paint guns, you'll want a compressor that puts out a minimum of 13 cfm @ 90 psi. Horsepower and tank size take a back seat to CFM rating. That's all you should really care about. If you are comparing 2 compressors, and one is 10 cfm, the other 13, and they're the same price... the 13 is 30% better than the 10. Remember that.
3) Iron pump. No aluminum. The aluminum pumps are cheaper and not as durable.
4) I personally like 2-stage units, as it gives you a higher cycling pressure and more air in the tank (60 gallons at 150 psi is more air than 60 gallons at 120 psi). Your cycling pressure with a 2-stage will kick in at ~125-130 psi; for a single stage, it'll kick on at a lower ~95-100 psi. The higher you can keep the pressure, the more consistent your tools will work. I regulate to 120 psi on my painting drop (and then regulate down at the gun from there).
Go as big as you can afford, and as much electrical circuit as you have. A 5hp 220V compressor needs a minimum of a 30A breaker. A 7.5 hp needs a 50A breaker.
Most 120V compressors lie about their hp ratings. 5 amps per horsepower at 220V, 10 amps per horsepower at 120.
Last edited by Camaroholic; Jun 27, 2006 at 10:29 AM.
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thank you a lot.
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w..._211720_211720
this is one. what do yall think? we would like to get one around the 500$ range but willing to go above(not much tho) this one listed is 799
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w..._211720_211720
this is one. what do yall think? we would like to get one around the 500$ range but willing to go above(not much tho) this one listed is 799
Stevo I will look through compressors here at work and see what I can find. I have a small one we just got done testing I am taking home 
A lot of our new product is on back order due to issues with a supplier. I will check some things out though.
A lot of our new product is on back order due to issues with a supplier. I will check some things out though. http://www.mytscstore.com/detail.asp...productID=9181
Same compressor but with 80 gallon tank, $742 at Tractor Supply.
That was the first one I looked at - we have a local Tractor Supply that has them in stock. I passed because (1) single stage, and (2) bearingless aluminum rod on steel crank compressor design. If you use IR's synthetic oil, I think you'll probably be OK. A buddy of mine has that one (from Tractor Supply), and he runs it hard - but it's locked up a couple of times on him in the last couple years.
Same compressor but with 80 gallon tank, $742 at Tractor Supply.
That was the first one I looked at - we have a local Tractor Supply that has them in stock. I passed because (1) single stage, and (2) bearingless aluminum rod on steel crank compressor design. If you use IR's synthetic oil, I think you'll probably be OK. A buddy of mine has that one (from Tractor Supply), and he runs it hard - but it's locked up a couple of times on him in the last couple years.
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I've always been impressed with Quincy compressors. They are built for continuous use. My dad has had one running for about 30 years with no troubles at all. Harbor Freight used to sell them.
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I seriously considered an Eaton. I did talk to them... or should I say, tried.
When I called, the owner wasn't there, so no one could answer my questions. So... what happens if something happens to the owner?
Secondly, I've 'heard' that their pumps are made in China (though the unit is assembled here). I'm kinda on an anti-China kick right now - buying American where I can.
And shipping was $205.
I ended up with an Ingersoll-Rand 2-stage / 60 gallon 2340L5 unit from Grainger, and am very happy with it.
When I called, the owner wasn't there, so no one could answer my questions. So... what happens if something happens to the owner?
Secondly, I've 'heard' that their pumps are made in China (though the unit is assembled here). I'm kinda on an anti-China kick right now - buying American where I can.
And shipping was $205.
I ended up with an Ingersoll-Rand 2-stage / 60 gallon 2340L5 unit from Grainger, and am very happy with it.
My Craftsman "Professional" oilless big compressor just
died on me with a few tens of hours on it (but two
years or so old). Motor will not start when pressure is up
and hits thermal cutout before reaching full pressure.
Fvck Sears, fvck them up their stupid a$$es. And A. O.
Smith, who makes the motor.
died on me with a few tens of hours on it (but two
years or so old). Motor will not start when pressure is up
and hits thermal cutout before reaching full pressure.
Fvck Sears, fvck them up their stupid a$$es. And A. O.
Smith, who makes the motor.
It just stalls into any load over about 50PSI in the tank.
It does not appear to be unloading like I think it should
when off, but it used to pump to 150PSI and now it
stalls and pops the thermal breaker inside the motor
when it gets up to 120 or so. The unloader valve does
open when the lever switch is "off" but seems to need
the pressure switch to trip, to unload when on and it
never makes pressure so never unloads. Then it just
grunts and re-thermal-pops every time the motor starts
to cool off.
I think I'm a gonna just buy a pulley lung from Harbor
Freight and cobble it up to my 200#, cast iron repulsion
start oiled bearing "5HP" antique motor from the '40s.
Rotor on that is bigger than the whole head on the
Sears, ***** of starting torque and just plenty cool.
Check valve and a pinhole will do for an unloader.
It does not appear to be unloading like I think it should
when off, but it used to pump to 150PSI and now it
stalls and pops the thermal breaker inside the motor
when it gets up to 120 or so. The unloader valve does
open when the lever switch is "off" but seems to need
the pressure switch to trip, to unload when on and it
never makes pressure so never unloads. Then it just
grunts and re-thermal-pops every time the motor starts
to cool off.
I think I'm a gonna just buy a pulley lung from Harbor
Freight and cobble it up to my 200#, cast iron repulsion
start oiled bearing "5HP" antique motor from the '40s.
Rotor on that is bigger than the whole head on the
Sears, ***** of starting torque and just plenty cool.
Check valve and a pinhole will do for an unloader.
