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Best Sawzall Metal cutting blade?

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Old 09-05-2006, 08:28 PM
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Default Best Sawzall Metal cutting blade?

Alright I am running into a problem now with some craftsman bimetal blades that I am using to cut off my torque converter to the flexplate. Dont ask me why because I have all that in the automatic section but these blades just seem to be melting when they hit the bolt. Are there any other blades I could use to get through this bolt?

Thanks
Old 09-06-2006, 06:38 PM
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Try the Milwaukee brand blades.
Old 09-06-2006, 08:43 PM
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I too had to cut the bolts off my torque converter, I used a dremel with a long flexible shaft extention and large grinder blades... it takes about 3 of them to burn thru one bolt.
Old 09-06-2006, 08:53 PM
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why not just use a dremel and sand the bolts in 1/2 then use a hammer and chisel to spin them out? For sawzall blades I would deff. go with milwakee.
Old 09-06-2006, 09:19 PM
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Originally Posted by spare tire
why not just use a dremel and sand the bolts in 1/2 then use a hammer and chisel to spin them out? For sawzall blades I would deff. go with milwakee.
I tried that, its incredibly hard to do.

Here's a pic of what I had to do to get the bolt to come off:

Old 09-07-2006, 05:42 AM
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Lenox has a new blade out - they sent me a free one in the mail. It is white with gold teeth... by far the best and logest lasting blade I've ever used.
Old 09-07-2006, 12:01 PM
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While cutting keep the blade cool and lubed, few shots of wd40 will do wonders, for the life of the blade.
Old 09-07-2006, 04:35 PM
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Grade 8 is going to be pretty hard. I guess there are
some other grade names now, but anyway. I have
gotten carbide-grit blades for my saber saw for use
on tile; may be (probably are) equivalents for the
Sawzall form although I've never used them on mine.
Might check in tile supply type places if you don't get
any satisfaction at Home Depot.
Old 09-07-2006, 05:59 PM
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I run "The Torch" by Milwaukee. They always get the job done.
Old 09-09-2006, 01:12 AM
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Grade 8 is the hardest for standard bolt alloys, but the stuff they use for bolts like that is even harder. The only really good way to cut them is with an abrasive blade of sorts, any toothed blade isn’t going to have teeth much harder then that bolt and will get ruined quickly. If you want to use the sawzall they make carbide grit blades for stuff like this.
Old 09-11-2006, 07:13 PM
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I got the bolts out last week finally! Went through 12 blades total. Found out that the Milwaukee tungsten carbine blades were the best for cutting through the actual bolts. The craftsman professional blades were good for the actual steel part of the torque converter. Went through 3 of the tungsten carbine ones. It was a pain in the ***, but it was fairly easy compared to sweating my *** off under the car trying to get the torque converter off which I am replacing anyways. Just have to wait for all my parts to get in now and ill be all set!
Old 09-11-2006, 11:37 PM
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For plain steel I use Dewalt bimetal blades from Home Depot. They work pretty good.
Old 09-12-2006, 12:55 PM
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haha, nemesis i didnt realize you made a tool thread about this. i guess i lucked up with only completely destroying 2 craftsman blades i got from work...
Old 09-12-2006, 07:18 PM
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Lenox blades FTW
Old 09-25-2006, 08:35 PM
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At work we do a lot of piping demo. We use milwaukee, lennox, and lawson. The milwaukee "TORCH" is a good blade, lennox is good as well.
Old 09-25-2006, 10:53 PM
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The dewalt blades that you find near the checkout at HD… really don’t compare to a good Milwakee or Lennox blade. They work, but run at any decent speed they fall apart quickly.

With my supersawzall I usually have to set the speed down to somewhere <2 or so to keep from destroying them, where with a similar TPI Milwaukee I can run full speed all day. For that matter, I’ve used 4/6TPI Milwaukee bimetal wood/nail embedded wood/demolition blades to hack through ½” steel plate (roughing out turbo flanges) and it worked great and the blade didn’t suffer any damage at all (well, it worked great, but trying to hold onto all that wore me out, I think I had to stop a few times just to rest/chill out)
Old 09-26-2006, 05:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Silverback
(well, it worked great, but trying to hold onto all that wore me out, I think I had to stop a few times just to rest/chill out)
I know the feelin'.... when I run my sawsall it shakes that whole garage if I haven't tightened things down properly.
Old 09-28-2006, 12:28 AM
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What about a cutoff wheel in a die grinder?
Old 10-04-2006, 10:22 PM
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I would say a cutoff wheel in a die grinder would of been best probably wouldnt of even used one blade unless u got it in a bind, but "The Torch" is a really really good blade use it on everything, just make sure u get the 8 or 9" one, not sure which it is, but it seems to work the best. ( It's also fairly cheap compared to a Lennorx blade and always lasts longer for me. i think its like almost $3 for the small Leenorx blades and about $4 for the large blades like the torch, and I can get the torch in a pack of 5 for $16.60 ish
Old 10-04-2006, 10:23 PM
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Originally Posted by PipesTA
I run "The Torch" by Milwaukee. They always get the job done.
You took the words out of my mouth!


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