Air Compressor?
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From: Joplin, Missouri
Air Compressor? I'm having a problem with my compressor. Every time I turn it on and let it run it will kick the breaker. Its a campbell hausfeld with a 28 gallon tank. What do you think the problem could be?
See if it kicks the breaker after it has been running and shuts off. In other words right at start up after it has run for awhile. The compressor head may not get unloaded after it has operated and shut off. You should hear a hiss of air right after it runs for a while. If it's not unloading the compressor it will put a load on the motor on start up and will kick the breaker.
Please let us know what you find.
LSX
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From: Joplin, Missouri
It kicks the breaker when its running. It did it at my dads house and my house so I don't think its a weak breaker. Sometimes it will run all the way through and shut off just fine. But most of the time it will run for a little bit the kick the breaker.
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From: Illinois, RT 66 dragway area
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It's probably a slight surge. I have the same issue in my trailer, it can run 5 times fine, then trip 5 times in a row.
I've run more total watts before, but something in the damn compressor just cause a surge some times.
Turning everything else off doesn't help. I was told adding a capacitor would stop it from tripping???
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It's probably a slight surge. I have the same issue in my trailer, it can run 5 times fine, then trip 5 times in a row.
I've run more total watts before, but something in the damn compressor just cause a surge some times.
Turning everything else off doesn't help. I was told adding a capacitor would stop it from tripping???
.
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From: Joplin, Missouri
Yeah it's just a 110. I guess I'll replace the breaker first and see what happens. The house I live in is only a few years old, wouldn't think the breaker is bad or weak. Would it be hard to run a dedicated circuit? What all would I need? I've also been thinking about getting a bigger compressor now, 80 gallon 2 stage. If I did that I would have to wire up a 220 outlet in the garage.
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Teching In
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From: Everett,Wa
more than likely not the breaker.. more than likely the motor if you have a meter check the amp draw.. this will be written on the nameplate of the motor should be labeled rla (run load amps) if it is over 10amps it should be on its own curcuit. then uplug it and check all wire connections if some are loose that will cause it to overamp also.. hope this helps..
Just went thru this with: A properly sized 220, dedicated circuit.
A NEW KOBALT 80 gallon/5hp, 2 stage compressor.
I found:
1. The cheapo pressure switch contacts were fried.
2. 1 of the power connectors in the motor was melted. [Most likely due to it being a cheapass 1/4" spade connector.]
So, a check of the "fine print" in the shitty little "owners manual", revealed that the 3 yr "WARRANTY" was on the tank and compressor ONLY!![HUGE sticker on the tank says 3 yr warranty. A LOWES way to lure you in.]
So, the cure:
1. Bought a new 7 HP GE motor, from Tractor Supply. It ran 1 time, and the startup capacitor coil took a $hit. I then found that T/S no longer sells that motor.. Toooo many failures.
We then decided to wire it like it should have been in the first place.[Initial thot was the motor was fried.]
A. A new psi sw, wired to a remote starter/contactor box.[No significant load on the psi sw]
B. The old motor was then wired directly to power cable w/ wire nuts, eliminating the spade connectors.
C. The reason for many failures of the cheapo **** is the motor will draw as much as 4-6 X the running amps when it starts. An unloader valve not working will fry it, too.
Bottom line:
Cheapo $hit is gonna bite you. Do it right the first time.. I didn't, relied on what the mfgr said, and got screwed.
My bud, an EE, was the savior here. His compressor is wired as I described... It's run for over 15 yrs without a problem...
After having said all that, I'd be looking at all the suggestions you have seen posted by others, and maybe even rewire it, as I've done.
A NEW KOBALT 80 gallon/5hp, 2 stage compressor.
I found:
1. The cheapo pressure switch contacts were fried.
2. 1 of the power connectors in the motor was melted. [Most likely due to it being a cheapass 1/4" spade connector.]
So, a check of the "fine print" in the shitty little "owners manual", revealed that the 3 yr "WARRANTY" was on the tank and compressor ONLY!![HUGE sticker on the tank says 3 yr warranty. A LOWES way to lure you in.]
So, the cure:
1. Bought a new 7 HP GE motor, from Tractor Supply. It ran 1 time, and the startup capacitor coil took a $hit. I then found that T/S no longer sells that motor.. Toooo many failures.
We then decided to wire it like it should have been in the first place.[Initial thot was the motor was fried.]
A. A new psi sw, wired to a remote starter/contactor box.[No significant load on the psi sw]
B. The old motor was then wired directly to power cable w/ wire nuts, eliminating the spade connectors.
C. The reason for many failures of the cheapo **** is the motor will draw as much as 4-6 X the running amps when it starts. An unloader valve not working will fry it, too.
Bottom line:
Cheapo $hit is gonna bite you. Do it right the first time.. I didn't, relied on what the mfgr said, and got screwed.
My bud, an EE, was the savior here. His compressor is wired as I described... It's run for over 15 yrs without a problem...
After having said all that, I'd be looking at all the suggestions you have seen posted by others, and maybe even rewire it, as I've done.
Every time a breaker trips for what ever reason it weakens the breaker and it will trip at a lower amp draw next time. Probably you have other loads on the same circuit which may be cause the breaker to trip when you are running the compressor. Best bet would be to measure the current to make sure it's within the running load specs and or run a dedicated circuit to you compressor (20 A 110 using a different receptacle, one of the blades is turned 90 degrees).
I sent you.. 