98 Trans Am M6 w/ 6.0 swap
10-25-2010, 01:44 AM
#1
98 Trans Am M6 w/ 6.0 swap Year: 1998
Make: Pontiac
Model: Trans Am
Price: $9000
Mileage: 135000
Private or Dealer Listing: Private Listing
Location (State): IL
Color: Black
Transmission: Manual
Drivetrain: Rear Wheel Drive
LS Engine?: Car has LS engine
-2002 LQ4 6.0 shortblock. Had fresh, stock rebuild before I bought it with ARP rod bolts
-L92 heads with PRC EHT .675" lift valve springs and ARP head studs
-Texas Speed and Performance 231/236 .644"/.613" 111LSA cam
-LS3 intake/rails/injectors
-Nick Williams 92mm TB
-GM (Delphi) 85mm MAF
-SLP Lid
-ASP 25% underdrive crank pulley
-Stainless (Ebay) 1 3/4" primary/3" collector long tube headers
-3" true duals w/ x-pipe and Borla ProXS mufflers
-Racetronix fuel system with RPM Speed 255lph pump
-Spec Stage 3 clutch
-Hurst Billet Plus short throw shifter with 6" WS6Store short stick
-18x8.5/18x9.5 hyperblack Ruff Racing 278's with Nankang Ultra Sport NS-II tires (3 are about half tread and the right rear is basically brand new)
-Rotoworks drilled and slotted rotors with Hawk HPS pads
-10,000k HID low beams and fogs
-GSCreations front blackout kit (fogs and parking lamps)
-VHT Niteshaded tails and blacked-out 3rd brake light
-WS6 hood with gunmetal metallic "6.0" blackbird stripes
-gunmetal metallic Trans Am door emblems
-Polished stainless Pontiac inserts on the rear
That's all I can think of for now, but I may be leaving out a few things. All in all, it's a very nice car with a few small interior and exterior blemishes that you'd expect from a '98. The A/C has been removed, but I have all the necessary components to put it back in, if you want it. The car does have a few mechanical issues that I've been trying to sort out. The "BRAKE", "TCS OFF", and "ABS INOP" lights are on, on the dash. I just need to find a code reader that can do brake codes, so I can pinpoint the problem. Fairly sure it's just a bad sensor. Also, the e-brake doesn't work at the moment. It just needs new shoes, and I haven't had the time to pull the rotors off and get new shoes put on. And last but definately not least, it cuts out a little in higher RPM's. I think I've figured out the issue, and it will be addressed and fixed before anyone comes to take a look at it. The car also still needs a dynotune. It's still on the mail order tune, because I've been trying to work out all the little issues with it beforehand. In total, I've put nearly $17-18k in this car, in the past year, between buying it and all the upgrades done. So, my asking price is $11k obo.
I'll have pictures posted on here tomorrow, and if you want any more detailed pictures or have any questions, feel free to ask. You'll get the fastest response by PM'ing me.
Price Change: $9000 FIRM
Exhaust Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UFvX11K79Ms
Last edited by tspence45; 12-08-2010 at 09:07 PM.
10-26-2010, 01:46 AM
#2
Also forgot to add that it had a new front bumper, and the whole passenger side and roof have fresh paint because of some unfortunate curcumstances a couple months ago. That's also when it got the hood. It wasn't any major damage or anything, just a bunch of scratches a small dings that we wouldn't have been able to buff out.
Here's a few recent pictures after the hood and paint. I'll try and get the car cleaned up sometime this week or weekend and take some more pics of everything.
Here's a few recent pictures after the hood and paint. I'll try and get the car cleaned up sometime this week or weekend and take some more pics of everything.
10-29-2010, 12:18 AM
#4
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just a lil note on the brake light and tcs and abs inop light its more than likely the abs module that went out they range from 60 to 200 dollars if u get it off ebay had the same problem with my car obdII will not communicate with it
10-31-2010, 08:14 PM
#6
Made 418rwhp/400lbft untuned shutting it down early at Speed Inc, back in June. Had fuel issues at the time, and it was dropping pressure from 60psi down to 30psi ~5500rpms. So, it made that at 5500-5600rpms. The cam should peak a good 1000rpms higher than that, and still has a lot of tuning to be done, as it just has a mail-order tune right now. It should be making between 550-600 crank hp once tuned.
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11-07-2010, 07:22 PM
#9
Yeah. Still has the stock 10 bolt with 3.42's. I have an 8.8 with 4.10's out of a fox body that I planned on fabbing up for it, but still haven't gotten around to it. If I can't get rid of the car before winter, I'll probably end up fabbing it up while the car isn't being driven.
11-16-2010, 04:43 PM
#10
Price change to $9500. Want it gone soon, because I found a couple Cobras and GTO's that I'm interested in getting, but need this gone first. Just put new plugs and wires in it the other day, and will be changing the oil tomorrow. Also, I'll be putting a stock 186* t-stat in it tomorrow when I change the oil, because the car isn't liking the 160* that's in it. I believe that's what is causing the cutting out in higher rpm's. Because, when it sits and gets warmed up past 170-175*, it pulls strong all the way to ~6800 (The new rev limiter with the cam). But, it's usually at ~165* while driving, with the 160* in it.
11-22-2010, 12:22 AM
#12
bump.........Added a video of the exhaust for anyone that wanted to know what it sounded like. Just changed the oil a few days ago, so it has fresh Mobil 1 0W-40 in it, with a Wix filter. Also, took the stock replacement plug wires off of it for a set of Taylor 10.4mm wires. Still having slight issues with cutting out up top at the moment too. Local tuner thinks it may be in the tune. So, it may be getting dyno tuned before too long, if a few things I have in mind don't fix the issue. If that happens, then the price will go up though.
11-22-2010, 12:32 PM
#13
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How is the interior of it?
Can you get me some shots of the interior and under the hood?
Email them to
Faust.gary@gmail.com
Can you get me some shots of the interior and under the hood?
Email them to
Faust.gary@gmail.com
11-22-2010, 10:33 PM
#14
Interior panels have some scratches and a small crack in the dash. I'd give it probably a 7 out of 10, because it's far from perfect, but not bad. I'll get it cleaned up and snap some more pictures sometime this week, when I get a chance to.
11-23-2010, 12:29 PM
#16
Make me some offers guys. This is a good price for what all has been done to the car, and how new all the parts are. I'd like it gone in the next week or two. I'll even throw in the 8.8 with 4.10's and limited slip with the car, that I have laying around. It'll take some work to be fabbed up, but there's a lot of write-ups on here about how to do it. It'd be a nice, cheap rearend that will hold up to some power, and the 4.10's would really make this car fly. I also have some 3M precut window tint (5% rear, 35% fronts) that go with the car too.
11-24-2010, 05:01 PM
#18
I should have some time tomorrow to clean it up a bit and snap some more recent interior pics for ya. The crack really is no big deal, and I didn't notice it until about a couple weeks after I bought the car, because you can't see it while driving unless you look hard. It runs from the big vent on top of the dash to the hump over the gauge cluster. It's a few inches long. But, I'll get some detailed pics of it tomorrow for you to see. Until then, here's some older interior pics I took a few months back when I thought about selling it. Nothing's changed since then. And the reason it's humped up a little in the back is because I did the trap door method when putting in the fuel pump, and I need to cut the metal flap the rest of the way off and make a piece to cover the hole, to keep the carpet from having the hump in it. Then, everything will look perfectly normal back there. And also, those are t-top shades laying in the back. I've never used them before, because I like having the t-tops uncovered all the time. But, they will come with the car. Fairly sure they still look like brand new. Haven't looked at them in a while, but I don't think there's any stains on them or anything. And also, the underhood pic is with the old, stock MAF on it. It now has a GM/Delphi 85mm 5-wire MAF in it. So, the IAT sensor is build into it. I still have the IAT sensor in the lid though, because I haven't found anything to plug the hole with. The engine bay wash freshly painted when I had the motor out. Me and a couple buddies masked everything off and used some high temp gloss black spray paint. So far it's held up nicely. Could use a good cleaning off though, which I'll do tomorrow and take some more pics of it.
11-24-2010, 05:05 PM
#19
Also, forgot to add. If I have time tomorrow while I'm cleaning the interior up, I'm going to be installing a couple gauges that I bought earlier this week. They're ProSport amber/white 52mm(2 1/16") gauges. One is an electronic fuel pressure gauge, and the other is a narrowband AFR gauge. I bought the gauge adapters from Speed Inc to put them in 2 of the vent holes in the dash, above the radio.
