4 SALE: '02 SALVAGED WS6 $8.5k OBO
#1
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SOLD
i might even consider parting it out if i can get majority of the cash upfront.
as the title says. $6k
100k on the clock,
has a minor fender bender that i was quoted $300 at a local body shop to fix AND repaint. u can kinda see the mis-alignment of the front bumper to the hood. just look at all the lines. i recently found a hook up that will do it for even cheaper. ill have pics of the fender bender if requested.
mods on sig but ill be keeping the sound system.
reply to thread or PM me for additional 411.
![](http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i51/ReXLuvSeX/WS6/DSC03547.jpg)
![](http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i51/ReXLuvSeX/WS6/DSC03545.jpg)
![](http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i51/ReXLuvSeX/WS6/1383339459.jpg)
![](http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i51/ReXLuvSeX/WS6/calin_car_009.jpg)
![](http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i51/ReXLuvSeX/WS6/calin_car_001.jpg)
i might even consider parting it out if i can get majority of the cash upfront.
as the title says. $6k
100k on the clock,
has a minor fender bender that i was quoted $300 at a local body shop to fix AND repaint. u can kinda see the mis-alignment of the front bumper to the hood. just look at all the lines. i recently found a hook up that will do it for even cheaper. ill have pics of the fender bender if requested.
mods on sig but ill be keeping the sound system.
reply to thread or PM me for additional 411.
![](http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i51/ReXLuvSeX/WS6/DSC03547.jpg)
![](http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i51/ReXLuvSeX/WS6/DSC03545.jpg)
![](http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i51/ReXLuvSeX/WS6/1383339459.jpg)
![](http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i51/ReXLuvSeX/WS6/calin_car_009.jpg)
![](http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i51/ReXLuvSeX/WS6/calin_car_001.jpg)
![](http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i51/ReXLuvSeX/WS6/DSC03556.jpg)
Last edited by VtecDis; 07-13-2008 at 11:02 PM. Reason: casr is sold
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car was salved @ 16k miles as it will state on Car Fax. its been running great since for the past 5-6 yrs. from a quick look, it looks like my lower radiator hose was busted. as soon as it went past the 210 mark i pulled over and had it towed. so no chance of the block or heads getting blown.
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im not trying to ruin any ports but honestly why would you sell this car so cheap and why would you instantly shut the car down and get it towed if it barely creeped past 210 (these cars should run 210 all day no problems, 220 if its hot or idling) and completely give up on it. Did you buy this car off of autotrader about a year ago? I think i was going to purchase it. Just questions for you.
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im not trying to ruin any ports but honestly why would you sell this car so cheap and why would you instantly shut the car down and get it towed if it barely creeped past 210 (these cars should run 210 all day no problems, 220 if its hot or idling) and completely give up on it. Did you buy this car off of autotrader about a year ago? I think i was going to purchase it. Just questions for you.
so cheap? i thought a 100k salvage car is worth no more than 6 grand
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so cheap?? see griender03's answer
i wouldn't have gotten it towed unless i knew there was something wrong with it that i couldn't fix right then and there. besides there was coolant almost all over the engine bay. and with those facts, would u honestly risk letting your car's engine overheat causing more damage then there could be?
also, like i said.. its been one minor thing after another. i want to mod a car, not continuously repair it. given, maintainability and repair is part of a car's life, but after a repair, weird noise, after the check engine light going one, one thing going right after another...after u think u've fixed the previous problem....just gets pretty lame after a while. and if im not mistaken, and yahoo auto's was run by auto tradrer over a yr ago, then yes i did purchase it then.
i wouldn't have gotten it towed unless i knew there was something wrong with it that i couldn't fix right then and there. besides there was coolant almost all over the engine bay. and with those facts, would u honestly risk letting your car's engine overheat causing more damage then there could be?
also, like i said.. its been one minor thing after another. i want to mod a car, not continuously repair it. given, maintainability and repair is part of a car's life, but after a repair, weird noise, after the check engine light going one, one thing going right after another...after u think u've fixed the previous problem....just gets pretty lame after a while. and if im not mistaken, and yahoo auto's was run by auto tradrer over a yr ago, then yes i did purchase it then.
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If the radiator hose broke, and all the coolant leaked out, the engine would have to be VERY VERY VERY hot in order for the coolant temp sensor to read 210 degrees. The sensor has to have coolant flowing over it to read.
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man i know that your going through those people in the upper posts are jags there are always people who have to bash on ur stuff when your trying to sell it, it gets annoying after awhile your price is a decent deal for what the car is good luck with the same
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3.8redbird-
thanks for the bump.. and yeah, cali is the place to be!![Grin](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_grin.gif)
squarecruiser-
yeah thanks for the kind words. some people are ignorant, and some people just dont know and the facts to begin with. which is ok either way. cant do anything but live with the little annoyances!
ss1129-
come to think of it.. ill be in the Red Lands/Victorville area on Sunday.. which is a hell of a lot closer to SD to where i currently am. you can check it out then... and yes it running perfectly again. no check engine light on, no overheating or anything like that. it did start ticking when i turn to right.. but after diagnosing the problem from the from the Suspension and Brakes Threads https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes/696182-general-suspension-issues-questions-faq.html , i have come to the conclusion that its the inner or outter tie rods which i recently bought from ebay and will be including with the sale of the car.
facts about the Salvaged Title:
VIN: 2G2FV22G922115963
it was salvaged @ 16K miles. the 2nd owner (which i bought it from) told me it was a front end collision. he was the one that bought it from the insurance company and straightened out the frame. its been running great for the past 5-6 yrs since then until recently when i started fixing all the things i listed earlier in my posts. he told me the front and rear wheel alignment was within .02 mm (or some insanely small number) of the original company specs.. which means the frame on the front end is pretty much as straight as it came out of the assembly line... well i hope that covers everything about the salvaging.. let me know if u have any other Q's.
thanks for the bump.. and yeah, cali is the place to be!
![Grin](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_grin.gif)
squarecruiser-
yeah thanks for the kind words. some people are ignorant, and some people just dont know and the facts to begin with. which is ok either way. cant do anything but live with the little annoyances!
ss1129-
come to think of it.. ill be in the Red Lands/Victorville area on Sunday.. which is a hell of a lot closer to SD to where i currently am. you can check it out then... and yes it running perfectly again. no check engine light on, no overheating or anything like that. it did start ticking when i turn to right.. but after diagnosing the problem from the from the Suspension and Brakes Threads https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes/696182-general-suspension-issues-questions-faq.html , i have come to the conclusion that its the inner or outter tie rods which i recently bought from ebay and will be including with the sale of the car.
facts about the Salvaged Title:
VIN: 2G2FV22G922115963
it was salvaged @ 16K miles. the 2nd owner (which i bought it from) told me it was a front end collision. he was the one that bought it from the insurance company and straightened out the frame. its been running great for the past 5-6 yrs since then until recently when i started fixing all the things i listed earlier in my posts. he told me the front and rear wheel alignment was within .02 mm (or some insanely small number) of the original company specs.. which means the frame on the front end is pretty much as straight as it came out of the assembly line... well i hope that covers everything about the salvaging.. let me know if u have any other Q's.
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whats your name BTW? mine's Rex. when are you free to look at the car on sunday? i'm planning to meet up with another person interested in my car that same day and i want to sync the time. i know your waiting on your reenlistment cash, but whens your time frame on looking to buy one? im only asking because its my DD and il need to buy another car right away. also, keep in mind since its salvaged, im very negotiable..
Last edited by VtecDis; 02-22-2008 at 05:12 PM.