For Sale: 86 Buick T-Type
11-06-2009 | 08:25 PM
#1
For Sale: 86 Buick T-Type 86 Buick Regal T-Type
Motor: Stock 109 block, .30 over, stock turbo crank cut .10, K1 rods, Diamond .30 pistons, XR2 roller camshaft kit, 1.60 T&D roller rockers, stock ported iron heads with a fresh valve job and resurfacing, fel-pro 1000 head gaskets, UR5 NGK plugs, RJC girdle, ARP rod and main bolts, ARP head studs, Champion billet alternator and power steering bracket, black powder coated valve covers from GBodyParts.com, H&R Poly motor mounts, TE45A turbo with a .63 exhaust housing, 3.5” China down pipe and China headers with good V-Band clams and gaskets so they don’t leak. All machine work was performed by Accurate Machine in Newport Delaware.
Trans: CPT (Cahall Performance Transmissions) built 200-4R with the “Race” build, Precision Industries Vigilante 3200 converter.
Rear: Stock posi with 3.42’s.
The good: Car had all the body work and paint done last year, it’s a 9 out of 10, it looks great for a “race car/cruiser” but it’s not perfect or a “show car”. All the trim was cleaned, sanded, painted, and I did my best to make sure all the odds and ends were taken care of, like new door sill vents and strikers with new reinforced plates. It has new front and rear fiberglass bumpers, 87 grill, new fuel tank with a hotwired 340, Accufab adjustable regulator, -8 supply line, -6 return, 60# injectors, TT chip, 3.5” dump pipe, single 3” GBodyParts exhaust with a magnaflow muffler, Lakewood 90/10 front shocks, Lakewood 50/50 rear shocks, 2 airbags with separate lines, 3.5 Weld ProStars with Mickey Thompson tires on the front, and 8” Weld ProStars on the rear with 275-60-15 Mickey Thompson Drag Radials, and I’m sure there’s more that I’m forgetting. Everything is less than 2 years old the rest of it is less than a year old, but 99% of everything was bought brand new. Almost everything that I could buy is new like the door handles, locks, and $500 GM door gaskets. The car had maroon interior with a column shift and bench seat which I hated, so I did all gray interior out of an 87 T-Type with a console shifter and bucket seats. The car has an 8 point cage from S&W race cars that we modified to make into an X-Bar which I think looks great, but I made a rear seat delete where the bars go through, so the car doesn’t have a back seat, but I’ll give you both of the gray pieces incase you decide to re-do the cage or interior. The car also has new 5 point, cam-lock harness’ for both seats, so you can scare the **** out of your friends and family safely…lol… With the old motor which was stock with some head work the car ran a 10.80@124 with 24lbs of boost on 114 octane race gas. The new motor/setup with 15lbs-18lbs ran an 11.60@118, the exhaust housing needs to be ported for the internal waste gate because the car is having boost creep issues, but the chip is set up to run 19lbs on pump gas, and 26+ on race gas(Should go high 10’s on pump gas with no problems). I figured I’d over build for what I wanted, 10’s on pump gas, so it would last with no problems and be reliable. It has an older front mount intercooler with new silicone boots and t-clamps, but it does the job. The computer is stock, the throttle body and plenum is stock, it has a stock mass air meter, but it runs very smooth for being as quick as it is.
The bad: The reason the car hasn’t been out in months is because of what sounds like a bottom end knock, it’s not really loud, and it was intermittent which led me to believe that it was the downpipe or something rattling, but it definitely sounds like a knock when I’m revving the engine from under the hood. It might be, it might not be, but I don’t feel like pulling the motor out and apart to figure out what is wrong. I have another stock turbo crank that is freshly cut .10, I had it done at the same time as the motor so I’d have a spare, but that goes with the car just incase there is something wrong with the crank. The car doesn’t have A/C, or a heater box anymore, I got pissed off smashing my hands while doing head studs and decided that heat and AC wasn’t important on a car that isn’t driven everyday, but I do regret that now (lol). The bolt for the alternator bracket that holds the alternator in place, fell out while I was driving down Rt.202, I tried to replace it with another one, but someone cross threaded it apparently and I haven’t messed with it since.
The issues: I just got married in August which was great, but it has pushed my away from racing and wanting to work on the car all the time because the kids don’t really enjoy it yet and I want to spend as much time as possible with them. I work a lot, and free time is becoming more and more valuable to me. I guess you could say I realized how lucky I was before something bad happened with my marriage, or before it was too late. We out grew our house very quickly, and I really need to get my kids out of the New Castle area, and out of Colonial school district, so I’m taking the needed step in the right direction.
Pricing: I’m looking to get $10,000 OBO for the car the way it is, I’m not really into haggling but feel free to try if you feel the need to. The car is in zip code 19720. The spare crank, the back seat, an 86 grill, an emissions chip, street chip, and race chip come with the car, and I’ll also throw in a set of 275-60-15 BFG Radial TA’s with low miles and a few burn outs on them. I have 4 GTA wheels that need some TLC, but they can go too.
Here’s the link to my photobucket account so you can see what it was, what it’s been through, and what it is now. I even have a few videos from the track on there I think... Thanks for looking.
http://s198.photobucket.com/albums/aa140/Gnewc4/Buick/
Motor: Stock 109 block, .30 over, stock turbo crank cut .10, K1 rods, Diamond .30 pistons, XR2 roller camshaft kit, 1.60 T&D roller rockers, stock ported iron heads with a fresh valve job and resurfacing, fel-pro 1000 head gaskets, UR5 NGK plugs, RJC girdle, ARP rod and main bolts, ARP head studs, Champion billet alternator and power steering bracket, black powder coated valve covers from GBodyParts.com, H&R Poly motor mounts, TE45A turbo with a .63 exhaust housing, 3.5” China down pipe and China headers with good V-Band clams and gaskets so they don’t leak. All machine work was performed by Accurate Machine in Newport Delaware.
Trans: CPT (Cahall Performance Transmissions) built 200-4R with the “Race” build, Precision Industries Vigilante 3200 converter.
Rear: Stock posi with 3.42’s.
The good: Car had all the body work and paint done last year, it’s a 9 out of 10, it looks great for a “race car/cruiser” but it’s not perfect or a “show car”. All the trim was cleaned, sanded, painted, and I did my best to make sure all the odds and ends were taken care of, like new door sill vents and strikers with new reinforced plates. It has new front and rear fiberglass bumpers, 87 grill, new fuel tank with a hotwired 340, Accufab adjustable regulator, -8 supply line, -6 return, 60# injectors, TT chip, 3.5” dump pipe, single 3” GBodyParts exhaust with a magnaflow muffler, Lakewood 90/10 front shocks, Lakewood 50/50 rear shocks, 2 airbags with separate lines, 3.5 Weld ProStars with Mickey Thompson tires on the front, and 8” Weld ProStars on the rear with 275-60-15 Mickey Thompson Drag Radials, and I’m sure there’s more that I’m forgetting. Everything is less than 2 years old the rest of it is less than a year old, but 99% of everything was bought brand new. Almost everything that I could buy is new like the door handles, locks, and $500 GM door gaskets. The car had maroon interior with a column shift and bench seat which I hated, so I did all gray interior out of an 87 T-Type with a console shifter and bucket seats. The car has an 8 point cage from S&W race cars that we modified to make into an X-Bar which I think looks great, but I made a rear seat delete where the bars go through, so the car doesn’t have a back seat, but I’ll give you both of the gray pieces incase you decide to re-do the cage or interior. The car also has new 5 point, cam-lock harness’ for both seats, so you can scare the **** out of your friends and family safely…lol… With the old motor which was stock with some head work the car ran a 10.80@124 with 24lbs of boost on 114 octane race gas. The new motor/setup with 15lbs-18lbs ran an 11.60@118, the exhaust housing needs to be ported for the internal waste gate because the car is having boost creep issues, but the chip is set up to run 19lbs on pump gas, and 26+ on race gas(Should go high 10’s on pump gas with no problems). I figured I’d over build for what I wanted, 10’s on pump gas, so it would last with no problems and be reliable. It has an older front mount intercooler with new silicone boots and t-clamps, but it does the job. The computer is stock, the throttle body and plenum is stock, it has a stock mass air meter, but it runs very smooth for being as quick as it is.
The bad: The reason the car hasn’t been out in months is because of what sounds like a bottom end knock, it’s not really loud, and it was intermittent which led me to believe that it was the downpipe or something rattling, but it definitely sounds like a knock when I’m revving the engine from under the hood. It might be, it might not be, but I don’t feel like pulling the motor out and apart to figure out what is wrong. I have another stock turbo crank that is freshly cut .10, I had it done at the same time as the motor so I’d have a spare, but that goes with the car just incase there is something wrong with the crank. The car doesn’t have A/C, or a heater box anymore, I got pissed off smashing my hands while doing head studs and decided that heat and AC wasn’t important on a car that isn’t driven everyday, but I do regret that now (lol). The bolt for the alternator bracket that holds the alternator in place, fell out while I was driving down Rt.202, I tried to replace it with another one, but someone cross threaded it apparently and I haven’t messed with it since.
The issues: I just got married in August which was great, but it has pushed my away from racing and wanting to work on the car all the time because the kids don’t really enjoy it yet and I want to spend as much time as possible with them. I work a lot, and free time is becoming more and more valuable to me. I guess you could say I realized how lucky I was before something bad happened with my marriage, or before it was too late. We out grew our house very quickly, and I really need to get my kids out of the New Castle area, and out of Colonial school district, so I’m taking the needed step in the right direction.
Pricing: I’m looking to get $10,000 OBO for the car the way it is, I’m not really into haggling but feel free to try if you feel the need to. The car is in zip code 19720. The spare crank, the back seat, an 86 grill, an emissions chip, street chip, and race chip come with the car, and I’ll also throw in a set of 275-60-15 BFG Radial TA’s with low miles and a few burn outs on them. I have 4 GTA wheels that need some TLC, but they can go too.
Here’s the link to my photobucket account so you can see what it was, what it’s been through, and what it is now. I even have a few videos from the track on there I think... Thanks for looking.
http://s198.photobucket.com/albums/aa140/Gnewc4/Buick/
11-09-2009 | 04:15 PM
#7
Teching In
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
From: TULSA, OK
Trending Topics
11-09-2009 | 06:47 PM
#8
The rods and pistons were $1000 alone, the girdle was well over $1000 with the machine work, $750 on the heads between porting, polishing, and a full valve job, then another $300 on the heads for machine work for the roller rockers, another $300 having the crank done(and another $300 for the spare crank I had done), all new freeze plugs installed, the block was magnafluxed, then doing the cylinders .30 over, all new bearings installed, and having it balanced... My point is, the motor has the best of everything and is over built for the set-up so it should have no problems making over 600hp and lasting for a long time. Like I said, it might not be a bottom end knock, it could be a stuck injector, it could be a lifter, push rod, who knows, but I don't feel like working on it anymore. After all the time and money I spent on this car re-doing the motor, cage, paint, bodywork, and everything else I did, I just feel like i got kicked in the nuts by a car because something's not right...lol...
Ok, so here's the deal... I found a car that I like and I want the money to buy it... I'll take $8500 for the car this week only, if not I guess I'll just have to bring it to work and figure out what's going on... I just know if it's fixed and I drive it, I'll end up wanting to keep it, and I want an LS1 car... I actually started thinking about selling my 03 2500HD today so I could buy a Camaro and just make the T-Type an all out race car with a 400, trans brake, and a huge turbo...lol...
Ok, so here's the deal... I found a car that I like and I want the money to buy it... I'll take $8500 for the car this week only, if not I guess I'll just have to bring it to work and figure out what's going on... I just know if it's fixed and I drive it, I'll end up wanting to keep it, and I want an LS1 car... I actually started thinking about selling my 03 2500HD today so I could buy a Camaro and just make the T-Type an all out race car with a 400, trans brake, and a huge turbo...lol...
